Scimitar SE6a Restoration - Head Gasket

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JoeySully
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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - A New Year, A New List

Post by JoeySully » Mon Feb 28, 2011 10:15 pm

Well This "Project Process" thread seems to be a keeping it on the road thread. Every-time I do something it seems to upset or break something else :roll:
<Rant hat on>
Replaced the rocker cover gaskets last week and when I got the fan belt off the water pump I noticed that there was a lot of play in the pulley. This I presumed was due to the fan belt being too tight so when I reassembled it I left it a bit looser. The pump was not leaking at all before I went at it. So Valve clearances adjusted and fan belt left a bit looser I set off for a quick spin on Saturday evening. Now for the last few months iv been running cold so as a Quick fix I covered the vent under the bumper to restrict air flow.
So Driving along on Saturday the temperature gauge goes up to 90 then down to 70 then back up to to about 85. After about 10 miles I notice that the gauge has gradually increased to above 90 so I stop and remove the panel that I placed over the air vent as I presumed that the Air temperature is now warm enough to keep my engine at normal operating temperature. So just down the road I see that the temperature is still rising :shock:. I pull in and pop the hood only to see that the Otter switch has been blown out of its socket.
Ohh well that explains it. There is only one tool that I really needed and that was 1/2" spanner to get the spare wheel tray off, but it seems with my haste to leave the house I brought ZERO tools with me! not even a screwdriver or a vice grips :oops: . I knocked on the door of the house that I stopped at and thankfully the man of the house has some tools and 10L of water :mrgreen:.

So soon after I was back on the road but I still was running warm. I have never gotten air locked before but when filling the car I always face the nose uphill. When I filled the rad outside that mans house it was facing downhill so I guess it must have been air locked. Got her home anyway and parked up, It was dark at this stage so I just topped up the rad on the driveway while almost scalding myself under the fountain of water that came out when I opened the rad cap :oops:.

In the morning I popped the hood and checked the coolant lever. MM looks empty. 5 liters later it filled up and then finally I noticed the drip drip drip from the pump :evil:.
Wiggling the pulley left a steady trickle out. This is a pity because its a relatively new pump. I would say its done about 15K miles. Is that all they last? or was it too tight?
So I'm thinking that because I left it loose on the fan belt it was able to move about a lot more and this ability of extra movement casued the seals to fail which may have lasted a lot longer if it was in the one position under tension from the fan belt.
Ohh well new pump should arrive tomorrow. The only thing I'm thankful for is that its a 15-20 min job to replace unlike some modern Yokes that take hours to chage and 100's €.

In other news ;) Work continues in preparation for the webasto replacement. A job that's been on the TO DO list since Day ONE! Im really put off doing it because once I start it, IT will mean the car is off the road and i want to replace the Vinyl Roof at the same time so its a big job for me. Trying to get as all the prep done before I attack it.

I got a second hand one on eBay some time back and I'm slowly trying to make good again. Most of the metal in mine are pretty rotten but this one although has a bit of surface rust is solid.

I started by stripping it down - Surprising how many little bits Its made up out of.
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Nice shiny metal underneath
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Bit of primer :) - the sheet was a big mistake. All the fluff came off it and stuck to the paint :roll:
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Painting in the cold give a very DULL BAD finish :oops:
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But now that the weather has warmed up a bit :D shiny shiny. My old Ironing board makes a great spray table ;)
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Next step will be to prepare the wooden frame :shock:
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The wood I "OK" but I Have a friend that says he can replicate it. Will probably get it made out of some hardwood rather than this marine ply stuff.



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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - New Water Pump

Post by JoeySully » Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:51 pm

Well got the New Water pump this evening. Nice QH one that looks like its a much better quality than the one that was fitted.
I also drilled a hole in the thermostat. About 1.5mm. It has made filling the cooling system much quicker, A lot more bubbles ;)


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Went for a spin and all seems fine now :D - All set for the scimitar meet next Saturday now



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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - XJS Mirrors

Post by JoeySully » Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:41 pm

Little update on things Haven't done a whole lot lately but here's one job I've been busy with.

Iv had these XJS Mirrors now since before Xmas so finally "attempted" to get them fitted.

From reading previous post about this I though this was a bolt off Original ones and bolt on XJS ones. It turns out that there is a little more to it than that ;).

Firstly new holes have to be drilled which is something I don't like doing to my car but must be done so Measure twice mark once and drilled them with fingers crossed.
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Then the next thing is that the bolts holding the mirror on are not embedded in the base like the original ones so needed some Black countersunk Screws. Didn't have anything suitable so thought id just spray some round head bolts.
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So when the bolts were finally dry I made up a Gasket out of some old wheelbarrow inner tube glued together to make it thicker.

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Once fitted the rubber seal could be trimmed which I made a piss poor job of :oops:. Ohh well door will need some paint anyway at some stage.
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And all done
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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - New Alternator

Post by JoeySully » Thu Apr 21, 2011 11:19 pm

I'v had a New uprated alternator LRA517 for ages now but have always been a bit scared to fit it. I got it on ebay a while back for a bargain £20 listed for a Ford Escort 1.6D
I finally found a local supplier that had some suitable Wire for the Job.

I used one new wire direct to the battery instead of using the old wires. The wire I got was 120/0.30 8.5mm² 60 Amp. I was going to route the wire over the engine to the Block on the Main wire to the starter but I think this would have been done already by Reliant if this was a good idea. The vibrations from the engine might wear away at the wire and if it earthed off the engine it would be a disaster. So I just fed the wire along the same path that the old wires use.
Some nice strong connectors on each end and all was ready for testing. I did use the original ignition wire.

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So is it better ? Well I Haven't done a whole lot of driving yet but the voltage gauge is reading higher, ~14v and with the lights and Fan on it goes down to 13v.
Could be my imagination but the power windows seem to be quicker.

Got the Drivers side XJS mirror fitted also. I'm still not sure if I like them though.. maybe its the Pigs ear of a job I made fitting them though :oops:
Last edited by JoeySully on Sat Apr 30, 2011 9:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.



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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - New Alternator

Post by JoeySully » Mon Apr 25, 2011 8:00 pm

some picks from the weekend down at Kinsale.

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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - wheel polishing Time

Post by JoeySully » Sat Apr 30, 2011 10:10 pm

so while the suns out I thought it time to get some wheel polishing done :)

The spare was in really bad shape especially on the inside of the wheel.
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Some time later with a drill attachment it was nice and clean
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The front of the wheel turned out well too with some Autosol and plenty elbow grease.
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The wheels on the car were not so bad but the winter had taken its toll on the shine.
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Bit of polish and they are back to shiney.
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Also this wiring mess has been sorted out ;)
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Got a lot of wires that were not even been used out of there.
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This is what was removed - No original wiring though! Every single one was unnecessary!
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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - New Hoses :)

Post by JoeySully » Mon May 09, 2011 10:55 pm

So these Kevlar's have been a concern of mine for a while now. Fitted just over a year ago but they have all become hard and cracks have begun to get bigger.
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As Auto Performance Silicone Hoseswere having a sale I got my order in ;)
So this pile arrived in the post today :D
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1 x 45-38 straight reducer
2 x 38-35 90 reducer
1m 1/2" rubber hose
1m 5/8" rubber hose
1 x 5/8" - 1/2" plastic reducer

I decided to use rubber hose for the heater matrix hoses as the silicone straights are quite expensive and I think its a bit overkill for a standard car.
I don't have a auto choke so took the 1/2" rubber hose from the front of the inlet manifold to the top pipe of the heater matrix as they are both 1/2". About 3/4 of a meter did the job.
Then used the remainder of the 1/2 inch rubber hose and joined it up to the 3/8" hose using the plastic joiner. These joiners hold the hose securely with its grooves so no hose clips were needed. This hose was then fed from the bottom pipe of the heater matrix to the back of the water pump. I tucked it in behind the dipstick to keep it away from the exhaust.
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The 45-38 straight reducer was for the top hose and didn't need any modification.
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The two 90 reducers for either end of the radiator need about 30mm trimmed off each end for them to fit nicely.
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The bottom of the rad has got a bit rusty so I though it a good idea to cut some bolts and screw them into the rad before it was fitted to make it sit a little higher and not sit in a puddle of water and continue to rust more.
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This you probably would think to be a good idea? well when reliant built the scimitar they built it with precision, I couldn't believe it when I closed the bonnet and it was rubbing on the tyre :roll:. lifting the rad just 5mm makes that tyre rub. It makes the bonnet difficult to close but keeps it from shaking around like it does normally. So will have to cut down the bolts just a tad to get it right.

So the more observant of you will have realized that I seem to have forgotten one hose ;) well I haven't forgotten it just don't have it yet. From the bottom hose to the water pump I will be using a RonyFlex hose. I'm using this rather than a more expensive concoction of silicone hoses and joiners and hose clips . Should do the job and last for years and years.
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Scimitar SE6a Restoration - New rear Lights

Post by JoeySully » Mon Jul 04, 2011 11:33 pm

Got some new bits delivered this week so got some more jobs completed.
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Firstly the bottom hose for the water pump. This is a Rony-flex hose 38mm x 400mm.
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Just the perfect length. I used rubber pipe off a BMW fuel filter to protect the hose from rubbing the chassis.
These are very strong hoses and should last for years. I found one on a scimitar that was parked in a field for 10 years and its wire reinforcement or rubber had not deteriorated.
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Must get some SS metal hoses, them standard metal ones really do just rust away.


Some new alternative exhaust rubbers from eBay - they fit nicely and wont fall off if I go over a speed bump that catches the center boxes.
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Cuts some holes in my rear end ;)
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and fitted some of the imfamous eBay lorry lights.
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Quite happy with them - must order some more though for spares in case the lenses get damaged.
Looks like they are now at£17.90

Much brighter - must get some bulbs for the parking lights though - I only had some 21w bulbs today.
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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - New Rear Lights :)

Post by Corky » Tue Jul 05, 2011 6:59 pm

Looking good Joey. You'll notice a marked improvement when winter arrives.


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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - New Rear Lights :)

Post by SteveyC » Wed Jul 06, 2011 4:44 pm

Love the way you got those wheels to come up. Very bling. Picture sets them off nicely too with the 'glint' showing clearly.


'76 SE6a manual overdrive and '78 SE6a awaiting reinstatement.

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JoeySully
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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - Ohh DEER its nearly fixed

Post by JoeySully » Fri Aug 05, 2011 6:39 pm

Well this project has take a bit of a set back due to a run in with a DEER a couple of weeks ago.

see http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/view ... =1&t=10674
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The damage initially seemed to be fixable but after getting quotes for the work and parts it became apparent that this was not going to be a cheap fix. I contacted the insurance company and they sent out an assessor who came out to take a look. Then I went about trying to get some quotes. The first guy I asked said "no way! not going to touch it", Second guy said he could fix the cracks but cant do the paint. The third guy wanted €1500-2000 for the job but wouldn't be able to start it until March and would need it for 6 weeks :|. So after all the recommendations I had gotten not turning up anything I just got out the yellow pages and started at the top.
A crash repair company about 2 miles from me told me over the phone that they were familiar with working with GRP and would be able to do it no problem. A quick trip over to them and they came in with a very favourable quote. They even knew the assessor who came out so they took over dealing with him and figure was agreed but to keep the car from being written off I had to supply the parts. I really didn't want to get it written off. Not that the record of it would really bother me, but I have heard that it can take months to get a written off car back on the road over here. It would need an engineers report and all that jazz which would also be costly and with a lack of an agreed value with the insurance I would be probably no better off even doing all the work myself.

On dropping the car in I did ask how much more it would cost to get both sides done while it was in there and TBH I was pleasantly surprised by the quote so she was sent in for a pretty much full respray. I don't think they really realised the work that would be required to finish the job. On returning a few days later with a replacement bumper for them to fit I found that not a lot of work had been done and one of the lads on the floor showed my how they had run into problems.
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The blisters in the paint that were initially believed to be just under the paint were found to go all the way into the fibreglass and it was going to take a lot more work than initially thought. I had a chat with the boss and with his confirmation that it would look GREAT when it was done to continue with the work and a few more €€ would be paid.

So that was last week and I popped in today and they have done a pretty much all the sanding down and repairs to the cracks on the passenger wing.
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I think if Gillsfan is reading this he will agree that its some a terribly long process getting down to this stage :lol: I'm just glad I'm not doing it...

While I was in there today I spoke to the guy who has been working on it and he was delighted to be working on it he told me. He had never seen one before and was very happy to be coming into work to make something other than a Ford Focus look pretty once again so she is in good hands it seems.
I don't know if its a good idea but iv decided to get the rear wiper removed and filled in while its being resprayed. I havnt used it in a year, the park switch doesn't work, the rear sprayer doesn't work and all it really does is get in the way when putting stuff in the rear hatch so its coming off ;). I'm also very close to removing the ariel on the drivers wing but I think I have to sleep on it. So they estimate it will be about 30-40 more hours work to compete so it will be another two weeks before its back and then I'll really have to pull the finger out and get the roof done. While I was in the crash repair shop I saw a lovely Alfa jet black with an incredibly deep black colour and I was told mine would look like that so the roof is now going to let the car down big time...



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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - New Rear Lights :)

Post by Corky » Fri Aug 05, 2011 6:49 pm

Hi Joey, It's pretty darn exciting having your car resprayed. I've been lucky to have had two done in the last few years, and when complete you just can't take the grin off your face.

If I was you, I'd ditch the aerial whilst you have the opportunity. It's just another place to pick up gel cracks and for the water to come in. I had the rear aerial taken off the C when that was being done. I had great plans for all sorts of aerial, including using the heated screen. However, it picks up all the RDS radio stations with 3 feet of coax plugged in the back. One of the benefits of the car being GRP, is the lack of sheet steel to wreck your radio reception. :D


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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - New Rear Lights :)

Post by JoeySully » Fri Aug 05, 2011 6:59 pm

scimitarcars.org.uk wrote:
If I was you, I'd ditch the aerial whilst you have the opportunity. It's just another place to pick up gel cracks and for the water to come in. I had the rear aerial taken off the C when that was being done. I had great plans for all sorts of aerial, including using the heated screen. However, it picks up all the RDS radio stations with 3 feet of coax plugged in the back. One of the benefits of the car being GRP, is the lack of sheet steel to wreck your radio reception. :D

yeah I think you are right I just needed someone to agree with me. - It doesn't even get used - I don't have the radio connected to the speakers at all so off it goes :D



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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - Ohh DEER its Nearly Fixed

Post by Terry H » Fri Aug 05, 2011 7:10 pm

If they are doing the amount of work to the car that they are then I would have thought it would be more sensible and economical to have the roof done at the same time.
Regards Terry H
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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - Ohh DEER its Nearly Fixed

Post by JoeySully » Fri Aug 05, 2011 7:29 pm

yes but I dont think doing Vinyl roof and Webasto's are something they do. I Have been preparing for the job for two years now and have most of the bits ready to complete the job.



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