SS1 colander
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SS1 colander
Hi, so I started cleaning up the upper wishbones and guess what I found?!! Fresh air!! One side has the crack where it should be(?) and on the other side the shock absorber bracket is rusting through. Can I get away with strengthening the shocker bracket and just plating the upper ball joint bit?
Also what’s the best (easiest) way to remove the old rubber bushes?
Cheers.
Also what’s the best (easiest) way to remove the old rubber bushes?
Cheers.
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SS1 colander
I’d say that’s had it. Time for a new one.
Phil Howard
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SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
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SS1 colander
I don’t know if it’s just the photos but it’s looking very thin in places where you need to weld it to..
Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
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Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.
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SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
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SS1 colander
I would throw that one and either get a good second hand one or I think Nigel at QRG had done some new ones earlier this year. Not cheap but you don't want to be thinking about it while cornering on the limit!
- reliant-reviver
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SS1 colander
Bit of plastic padding. Be alreet.
(FFS don't take this advice seriously)
(FFS don't take this advice seriously)
Philip Andrew.
'74 Robin Super Saloon, '84 SS1 1300, '86 SS1 1800ti, '87 SS1 1300
Previous: I lost count around fifty.
'74 Robin Super Saloon, '84 SS1 1300, '86 SS1 1800ti, '87 SS1 1300
Previous: I lost count around fifty.
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SS1 colander
Just what I was thinking Philip! That chemical metal stuff is supposed to be ok
I won’t buy off QRG, would scrap the car first! Seems odd that one side has cracked above the ball joint hole but is ok on the shock mount and vice versa on the other side.
On a brighter note, how do you separate the rear hub from the carrier? Tried gently persuasion with a hammer. Do I need to be a bit more brutal?

I won’t buy off QRG, would scrap the car first! Seems odd that one side has cracked above the ball joint hole but is ok on the shock mount and vice versa on the other side.
On a brighter note, how do you separate the rear hub from the carrier? Tried gently persuasion with a hammer. Do I need to be a bit more brutal?
Do or do not, there is no try.
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SS1 colander
One side catches all the gutter pot holes. The other sits under a battery.
The crack is weldable and with suitable strengthening should be fine.
The other side does look awfully degraded. However it is your call on repairing it. If the main of the wishbone is sound and of good thickness then that is the crucial part. If the top "bell crank" does fracture all you will lose is the shock absorber function... Hardly dramatic.
If you are handy enough to fabricate and repair that then perhaps consider just creating your own SS1 spec wishbones using chevette donors.
The crack is weldable and with suitable strengthening should be fine.
The other side does look awfully degraded. However it is your call on repairing it. If the main of the wishbone is sound and of good thickness then that is the crucial part. If the top "bell crank" does fracture all you will lose is the shock absorber function... Hardly dramatic.
If you are handy enough to fabricate and repair that then perhaps consider just creating your own SS1 spec wishbones using chevette donors.
Philip Andrew.
'74 Robin Super Saloon, '84 SS1 1300, '86 SS1 1800ti, '87 SS1 1300
Previous: I lost count around fifty.
'74 Robin Super Saloon, '84 SS1 1300, '86 SS1 1800ti, '87 SS1 1300
Previous: I lost count around fifty.
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SS1 colander
that would be my option too, company in Wales ( i think) does Chevette tuning parts ( https://www.tjmotorsport.co.uk/index.php ) sure others are available??reliant-reviver wrote: ↑Sun Apr 14, 2019 8:28 pm
If you are handy enough to fabricate and repair that then perhaps consider just creating your own SS1 spec wishbones using chevette donors.
at least you start off with a decent thickness of metal to start sticking things to. use those old top arms as templates. I used a section of kitchen worktop as a base and then made dummy locations from 1" box sections and holes drilled to mimic the chassis mount location sso that the top of the bell crank is in correct place. so far only made the jig as the top arms are in 'reasonable' nick and the spares are in similar state to those in photos, but I 'hope' not too distorted.
only my tuppence . . . .
SS1 1600 (AJZ ----), C30 (SK 57 ---)& 480 ( .. . EVU & . . . . CDC)
Regal 330 (VAV ---) now passed to another 'keen owner'
Regal 330 (VAV ---) now passed to another 'keen owner'
SS1 colander
I may have a couple of spares that need shot blasting / checking that you are welcome too I'll check tomorrow afternoon on my way home. Mike
SS1 colander
You have a pm regarding the front wish bones.
I have a pair that need blasting but the metal looks thick.
Mike
I have a pair that need blasting but the metal looks thick.
Mike
SS1 colander
I've found QRG to be 100% reputable, reliable, trustworthy and accountable in all respects from over the phone parts ordering to in house Scimitar repairs.
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SS1 colander
Wish that I could say the same old bean, only used them once, never again. I posted on here the service I received and one or two members commented, not good ones. I will stay with GW, never let me down, great service and help.
Do or do not, there is no try.