Bogging at 4000 rpm

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Bogging at 4000 rpm

Post by AJL Electronics » Wed Aug 30, 2017 8:43 am

I may have a spare AFM lurking somewhere. However, I wonder if the problem is the TPS? They are known for going noisy until eventually they go "digital". You can test with an analogue meter as it is just a potentiometer. Look for a smooth change in resistance as the spindle is moved. You probably have the anti-clockwise type which is the most expensive, so don't change it unless proven.

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I may have a secondhand one I can post you to try, but I would like to see a fault code read first.

If you don't want to buy a proper FCR, just make one which will not take long. Hardest part is finding a way to connect to the test socket! I can find you a circuit given a few minutes.


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Bogging at 4000 rpm

Post by DARK STAR » Wed Aug 30, 2017 9:22 am

Thanks Andy, I'll try cleaning the injection system first, and if that doesn't improve things I'll buy the fault code reader off you.


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Bogging at 4000 rpm

Post by DARK STAR » Wed Aug 30, 2017 11:20 am

Got some Bardhal injector cleaner, luckily I had my credit card with me :shock:
It's not a spray, so I brushed some on the matchstick and the vane, wow it's strong, all like new at the inlet now.
The instructions say pour into 20 litres of petrol and drive around to use it all up (that would take weeks in a Kitten).
But if I decanted the product into a spray, could I squirt it directly into the airflow meters, or doesn't it work like that?


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Bogging at 4000 rpm

Post by greeny » Wed Aug 30, 2017 11:37 am

I wouldn't be spraying it in, use it as directed then theres no issues. It's meant to be mixed with fuel so it passes easily through the system.


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Bogging at 4000 rpm

Post by DARK STAR » Fri Sep 01, 2017 9:59 am

Latest analysis 8)

Injector cleaner in tank with about 20 litres of petrol.
I haven't time to do 200 km to pass the petrol but am using the car about 20 km a day.
At first the engine didn't want to accelerate at all, not very convenient.
After three days it is performing normally at low revs, with 200-odd lb/ft of torque that's ok.
But if I stamp on the gas it bogs completely at any revs.
If I accelerate gently :roll: it will go up to 4200 revs, no more.

I tried removing the air flow meters and the car wouldn't start at all.

Any conclusions?


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Bogging at 4000 rpm

Post by greeny » Fri Sep 01, 2017 10:52 am

philhoward wrote:
Tue Aug 29, 2017 11:38 pm
The Superchip shouldn't affect the ECU in making decisions although the default maps may make it seem comparatively gutless.

I think greeny uses a Superchip as well?

If you disconnect the AFMs then the system should approximate the readings it would get based on other values instead as there's a redundancy built in (it will probably use air temp, rpm and throttle position instead).
Yes I have a superchip on mine and it has no effect on the over all decisions the way makes.
The fault code reader is somthingninhave looked into and considered buying on a number of occasions. Having looked on a snapon reader (compatable with the ford 2.9i and able to read and report faults) there really isn't much communication. Best bet is to look for obvious causes and fix them and if this doesn't cure then maybe look and see of it finds anything. Having run mine for 15 years I have had the biggest gains in running quality by the terraclean (I know others have other opinions) which lead me to the fact that the injectors were clogged.
The air mass meters are not set up well from factory but finding someone to set them up well is not easy, I am lucky as I live around the corner from ric wood who has really transformed my car with a gain of 21 bhp and 30ftlbs of torque!!!! This may be better now the car is fueling better!
Having someone who knows the engine and it's issues is invaluable!!!


Babe the GTC number 229 and and Smurfett the 1400 SST. Ness the vw t4 van/dayvan/camper
Previous 3.0v6 X type jaguar triumph acclaim scimitar SE4A 663 (ex Collin Watson coupe) 2x se5a's 2x SS1 1600s and a load.of other things I can't remember!!!
GTC drivers doing it under canvas since 1981!!

Website scimitargtc.co.uk
12601 14846 18/09/12

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Bogging at 4000 rpm

Post by AJL Electronics » Fri Sep 01, 2017 10:55 am

When you disconnect the idle control valve, will it still idle? If not, it may be that the base idle has been messed with. Also it could still be TPS. You can measure the voltage from the centre pin to earth. It should be around 0.6 at idle position and around 4.5V at WOT. Transition should be smooth.


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Bogging at 4000 rpm

Post by scimjim » Fri Sep 01, 2017 11:01 am

IIRC you can disconnect the TPS and the ECU will go into a safe mode?


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Bogging at 4000 rpm

Post by philhoward » Fri Sep 01, 2017 11:39 am

I'm not sure if it's relevant or not but when I visited Chris last year and saw his Coupe I did find it odd that there isn't much of a cold idle speed increase at all - and from cold (a relative term in Antibes in May) through the warm-up phase it seemed a bit "lumpy" at idle although the engine speed was constant (and a bit higher than I'd expect - maybe 1100rpm?) - even when up to temp - like it has a lumpy cam. Chris felt it was a feature of the Superchip - I wasn't so sure but it's always been like that as far as he could remember. It could be a result of it always having lost one of the signals (such as water temp to the ECU) and now it's (possibly) getting odd signals from another sensor input it has finally decided to misbehave this much?


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Bogging at 4000 rpm

Post by DARK STAR » Fri Sep 01, 2017 12:13 pm

Wish I lived near Ric Wood ...

You're all getting too technical for me now.
First of all, does the injector cleaner in the petrol work gradually so might be better next week?
What is Terraclean?
Where is the idle control valve?
What and where is the TPS?

Yes, idle speed is around 1100 rpm cold or hot (and quite lumpy, sounds great) and has always been so.
I was starting to wonder about the ECU - how many sensors are there to check? :(


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Bogging at 4000 rpm

Post by scimjim » Fri Sep 01, 2017 1:13 pm

TPS - throttle position sensor. It tells the ECU how much you've opened the throttle by varying the voltage accordingly. It's on the opposite side of the throttle plates to your throttle cable and quadrant.


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Bogging at 4000 rpm

Post by philhoward » Fri Sep 01, 2017 1:15 pm

Idle Control Valve is the cylinder (about 50mm x 120mm) next to the TPS.


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Bogging at 4000 rpm

Post by scimjim » Fri Sep 01, 2017 1:15 pm

Idle bypass valve is near the TPS, it's a small cylinder on the end of the plenum chamber. As the name suggests, it's a (hitachi IIRC?) solenoid that opens and closes to control your idle (when cold) by bleeding off air.


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Bogging at 4000 rpm

Post by scimjim » Fri Sep 01, 2017 1:17 pm

Terraclean is just a trade name for an engine internal cleaning process. I've no direct experience so can't comment on how good it is, or isn't.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Bogging at 4000 rpm

Post by scimjim » Fri Sep 01, 2017 1:18 pm

Injector cleaner works pretty quickly - once it's actually in the injectors, it'll loosen the crud even when the engine isn't running.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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