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Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 4:50 pm
by roymck
So where are your earths now?

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Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 5:56 pm
by philhoward
roymck wrote:
Fri Mar 15, 2019 4:50 pm
So where are your earths now?
Not there by the sounds of it :mrgreen:

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Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 7:13 pm
by roymck
philhoward wrote:
Fri Mar 15, 2019 5:56 pm
roymck wrote:
Fri Mar 15, 2019 4:50 pm
So where are your earths now?
Not there by the sounds of it :mrgreen:
Yea good reply :P

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Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2019 1:44 pm
by peter freeman
Just a quick update as I have been out playing today for a short while. Instruments have come back to normal but only after I confirmed it was the -ve that was intermittent - came good again while I was playing. Engine does not turn - looks like the high torque starter is faulty as I tried starting it with power from another battery and it turns but very slowly and the battery is known to be good - trouble is the motor is now out of guarantee. With the battery on the car connected and the other battery in parallel it turns but just as slowly.bugger.

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Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2019 3:55 pm
by peter freeman
OK for the moment at least it has beaten me - new starter fitted today and no difference. If I power the starter by another battery the engine turns about 1/4 way then stops and the jump leads get warm. The engine turns easy enough by hand. So new starter and different battery and its just the same - this problem was intermittent for a few weeks before becoming permanent - I thought it was the battery isolator as it came good after the isolator screw had been loosened then re-tightened. Isolator has been by-passed. So the battery and starter have been replaced with no effect and the engine turns ok by hand that only leaves the starter ring on the flywheel in my mind and I'm in no hurry to take the starer off again this side of Easter - anyone got any suggestions because at the moment I've run out of ideas.

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Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2019 4:04 pm
by philhoward
If it was a ring gear issue it's unlikely that it's all affected so turning the engine 30 degrees or so would have it on a different bit of the gear? Only way it can all be excessively damaged is if the pinion gear failed to return correctly and burred all the teeth.

Have you tried replacing both high current cable (earth and feed) in their entirety? I've had similar issues with a dodgy main earth cable before.

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Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2019 4:27 pm
by DARK STAR
Me too, the fault was in the (lack of) connection to the terminal(s) although it looked ok from the exterior.

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Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2019 4:42 pm
by peter freeman
New cable down to the starter and a cable directly from the battery -ve to the engine. I have been sitting thinking about it and realised I have had similar problems before once in the 70s with a NSU when hot the starter would not turn the engine - the fix for this was to slacken the starter and re-tighten it. The second time I have had something similar was one of our 1800TIs and the fix for that was to fit a old starter instead of the new one. I wonder if the new starters are too tight to the flywheel ring. I think I will try loosening the starter a bit and trying again. The end fix for this would be to get the original starter working again - so far I have jut left it in the garage and not looked to see what is wrong with it.

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Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2019 5:53 pm
by roymck
Not just Scimitars but a lot of people have problems with these new style high geared starters , failing not long after fitting and even not working from new .

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Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 9:27 am
by Oldconn
roymck wrote:
Wed Mar 20, 2019 5:53 pm
Not just Scimitars but a lot of people have problems with these new style high geared starters , failing not long after fitting and even not working from new .
Me too, last year. I returned it to the makers who said they couldn't find anything wrong and sent it back. It worked for a week then stopped again, so I opened it up and found the fault immediately - a dry solder joint just inside the solenoid! Fixed that, and it's been perfect ever since. Quality control? Who is controlling them? :D

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Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 9:32 am
by peter freeman
The starter works fine off the car - will try to resurrect the original starter when I feel the urge again.

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Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 2:08 pm
by Old and Slow
You didn't say where you clipped the jumper leads at the engine end, so it might be a problem at the earth straps between the engine and the chassis?

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Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 2:13 pm
by peter freeman
Latest update - I now have a serviceable original Lucas starter motor to fit - maybe Monday if the weather is good to me, in the meantime I have had to order a new plug for the radio in the Sabre as the original is intermittent - things tend to go wrong at the same time don't they - for the moment I have fitted a.n.other radio. I am not looking foreword to fitting a Lucas motor as one of the reasons I fitted a replacement high torque was because it was 1/2 the size and therefore easier to fit.

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Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 2:15 pm
by peter freeman
Old and Slow wrote:
Thu Mar 21, 2019 2:08 pm
You didn't say where you clipped the jumper leads at the engine end, so it might be a problem at the earth straps between the engine and the chassis?
Straight to the engine and to the open end of the motor +ve which I disconnected from the battery - its a new 8mm cable.

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Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 8:21 pm
by Old and Slow
So it sounds like the only dodgy interconnections are between the starter and the block, and inside the starter itself - carbon brushes etc. But... if it works on the bench then as you say, a mechanical problem of high loading preventing it running up.
In the above I'm assuming it's not a pre-engage starter, otherwise there's a solenoid in the circuit too.
Sorry, not much help, am I.
Good luck with the replacement.