swage line

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MY CAR
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swage line

Post by MY CAR » Sat Oct 17, 2020 5:01 pm

HI all,
Putting my painted panels back on and struggling to get the swage lines from door to rear wing to line up ran out of adjustment on wing ,all fixing holes down the door pillar line up as do the fixings on rear wing to armature ,s there anything else I can check or have missed anything please
Alan



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scimjim
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swage line

Post by scimjim » Sat Oct 17, 2020 5:41 pm

The rear wings aren’t very adjustable but the doors are, so you need to adjust the door to match the rear wing.


Jim King

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Current: SE5 (8Ball), 1400 1600 1800 Zetec ST170 powered SS1 (G97), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre, TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR).
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CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

MY CAR
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swage line

Post by MY CAR » Sat Oct 17, 2020 7:32 pm

okay thanks was going about it the wrong way round will carry on tomorrow thanks a lot.
Alan



MY CAR
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swage line

Post by MY CAR » Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:18 pm

Well things go bad to worse.Could not adjust door any more and to make it worse have just sheared top nut on the top hinge found this hinge had only two nuts(now one) doh.
The door will have to come off now if I can to see about replacing the hinge,have not tried the bottom one yet.
Alan



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Rattling
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Post by Rattling » Tue Oct 20, 2020 8:06 pm

Whoops that’s annoying, I consider my badly aligned panels a characteristic 😁 I’m sure that’s what Reliant would have wanted,but it doesn’t do my ocd any good 🙈


Colin

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MY CAR
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swage line

Post by MY CAR » Sun Oct 25, 2020 9:29 am

Ok here we go then down the garage ,door off now the fun begins(or not).
Alan



MY CAR
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swage line

Post by MY CAR » Sun Oct 25, 2020 2:24 pm

It's me again.need to source a new door hinge if not will have to restud my existing one any one got one please .(passenger side top).
Alan



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philhoward
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Post by philhoward » Sun Oct 25, 2020 2:44 pm

Most people seem to re-pin them - drill out to 8mm and use a cap head bolt of suitable length so the plain shank is the bearing surface rather than any of the thread (then chop off the excess threaded bit). Cap (Allen) head screws are generally used mainly because they tend to be a harder material (10.9 or 12.9) than hex head (4.8 for cheap ones and 8.8 for half decent ones).


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MY CAR
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swage line

Post by MY CAR » Sun Oct 25, 2020 3:44 pm

Thanks Phill,
Will go for that and give it ago ,think I need some new shims as well by the look of mine.
Alan



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scimjim
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swage line

Post by scimjim » Sun Oct 25, 2020 5:15 pm

I have a box full of course :D


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), 1400 1600 1800 Zetec ST170 powered SS1 (G97), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre, TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR).
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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philhoward
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Post by philhoward » Sun Oct 25, 2020 5:42 pm

scimjim wrote:
Sun Oct 25, 2020 5:15 pm
I have a box full of course :D
I should have known :oops: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
SS1 Racer
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

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