Non Starting Issue

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colinf
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Joined: Sat Apr 19, 2014 12:14 pm
Location: HEATHROW

Non Starting Issue

Post by colinf » Tue Sep 15, 2020 10:10 am

Hi Folks,
I was running the SS1 at the weekend and noticed a split fuel pipe from pump to carb (the only one I had not already renewed) and the coolant low warning light was on.
Changed the fuel pipe and tightened hose clips on the water pipe, refilled rad with antifreeze / water mix so all should be good just needed to "burp" it.
Started fine and ran for about 3 minutes then just cut out - no warning, no rough running just stone dead.
Tried without success to restart.
I am thinking not a fuel issue as was running fine till it cut out, so electrics / ignition problem. I changed the ignition module a couple of years ago and the car has not been driven more than 20 miles since but is started regularly. Is the module the likely culprit ?


Colin F
'89 SS1 1600
'80 GTC
Old enough to know better
Young enough not to listen.

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scimjim
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Non Starting Issue

Post by scimjim » Tue Sep 15, 2020 10:13 am

Check for spark and check for fuel at carb - could be the carb idle shut off solenoid?


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), 1400 1600 1800 Zetec ST170 powered SS1 (G97), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre, TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR).
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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philhoward
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Non Starting Issue

Post by philhoward » Tue Sep 15, 2020 10:15 am

Sudden stop is usually ignition, splutter and stop is usually fuel. As Jim says, you need to check for the absence of one or the other otherwise it's pure guesswork.


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
SS1 Racer
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
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Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

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philhoward
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Non Starting Issue

Post by philhoward » Tue Sep 15, 2020 10:17 am

Also shouldn't be any need to "burp" the system - you use the bolt on the front of the cylinder head (by exhaust port No.1) to bleed the engine, then the thin hore from radiator to expansion tank does the rest (assuming its metal sleeve isn't rusted and blocking it - if it is, run a 3mm drill up it).


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
SS1 Racer
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

colinf
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Posts: 58
Joined: Sat Apr 19, 2014 12:14 pm
Location: HEATHROW

Non Starting Issue

Post by colinf » Tue Sep 15, 2020 11:02 am

Thank you Phil and Jim for the advice.
Will investigate further at the weekend if I get a chance


Colin F
'89 SS1 1600
'80 GTC
Old enough to know better
Young enough not to listen.

phade
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Joined: Sat Oct 10, 2015 12:50 pm

Non Starting Issue

Post by phade » Mon Sep 21, 2020 11:48 am

I had similar symptoms with my 1300 over a year ago,

It turned out to be it's unreliable Lucas distributor (the pickups are unreliable). I sorted out that problem by replacing it with a Bosch distributor.



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