Useful Torque Wrench Settings

Have you documented a Scimitar related procedure and would like to share it with others? Pictures are most welcome!
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GrahamWalker
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Useful Torque Wrench Settings

Post by GrahamWalker » Thu Feb 17, 2011 10:28 am

Tightening Torques SE5 SE5a SE6/a - - SE6b 2.8

Main Bearing Bolts 55 to 60 lb - - 90 to 104 lb
Big End Bolts 25 to 30 lb - - 29 to 34 lb
Cylinder Bolt Heads 65 to 70 lb - - 90 to 110 lb
Flywheel Bolts 45 to 50 lb - - 65 to 71 lb
Inlet Manifold 12 to 16 lb - - 21 to 25 lb
Oil Pump 12 to 15 lb - - 14 to 17 lb
Crankshaft Pulley 40 to 45 lb - - 42 to 50 lb
Camshaft Gear Bolt 40 to 45 lb - - 42 to 50 lb
Upper Wishbone to Frame 22 to 24 lb - - 22 to 24 lb
Tie Rod Lever to Vert Link 32 to 35 lb - - 32 to 35 lb
Upper Ball Joint 35 to 50 lb - - 35 to 50 lb
Stub Axel to Vert Link 50 to 65 lb - - 50 to 65 lb
Upper Wishbone to Fulcrum Bracket 26 to 40 lb - - 26 to 40 lb
Trunnion Bolt 50 to 65 lb - - 50 to 65 lb
Radius Arm Bolts 110 to 120 lb - - 110 to 120 lb
Cantilever Arm Pivot 18 to 21 lb - - 18 to 21 lb
Watts Linkage Arm 50 to 55 lb - - 50 to 55 lb
Drive Flange Bolts 30 to 35 lb - - 30 to 35 lb
Rear Axel Shaft Nut 120 to 130 lb - - 120 to 130 lb

Hope these help in one way or another :mrgreen:

mod edit some of those figures are wrong please read further down

Further mod edit 19-02-2017 - Revised figures copied from Jim's note later in this thread

Tightening Torques - 2.5/30 Essex engine (SE4a-SE6a) - lbft (Nm)

Main Bearing Bolts 55-60 (74-81)
Big End Bolts 25-30 (33-40)
Cylinder Bolt Heads 81-86 (109-116)
Flywheel Bolts 45-50 (61-67)
Inlet Manifold 12-16 (16-21)
Oil Pump 12-15 (16-20)
Crankshaft Pulley 40-45 (54-61)
Camshaft Gear Bolt 40-45 (54-61)

Tightening Torques - 2.8 Cologne engine (SE6b & GTC) lbft (Nm)

Main Bearing Bolts 66-67 (90-104)
Big End Bolts 19-24 (26-33)
Cylinder Bolt Heads (hex)
stage 1: 30-33 (40-45)
stage 2: 41-52 (55-70)
stage 3 (after 10 mins): 70-85 (95-115)
stage 4 (after warm up): 70-85 (95-115)
Flywheel Bolts 47-52 (64 to 70)
Inlet Manifold 21-25 (28-33)
Oil Pump 10-13 (14-17)
Crankshaft Pulley 85-96 (115-130)
Camshaft Gear Bolt 31-37 (42-50)

NOTE - 2.8 figures taken from Ford Granada Haynes manual

Tightening Torques SE5-GTC - lbft (Nm)

Upper Wishbone to Frame 22-24 (29-32)
Tie Rod Lever to Vertical Link 32-35 (43-47)
Upper Ball Joint 35-50 (47-67)
Stub Axle to Vertical Link 50-65 (67-88)
Upper Wishbone to Fulcrum Bracket 26-40 (35-54)
Trunnion Bolt 50-65 (67-88)
Radius Arm Bolts 110-120 (149-162)
Cantilever Arm Pivot 18-21 (24-28)
Watts Linkage Arm 50-55 (67-74)
Drive Flange Bolts 30-35 (40-47)
Rear Axle Shaft Nut 120-130 (162-176)


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CH1 4LT

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Re: Useful Torque Wrench Settings

Post by chrisgallacher » Thu Feb 17, 2011 10:39 am

Surely those Essex cylinder head bolt torque settings are incorrect now?

I thought back in the day Ford issued a service note recommending higher torque settings.


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Re: Useful Torque Wrench Settings

Post by GrahamWalker » Thu Feb 17, 2011 2:05 pm

chrisgallacher wrote:Surely those Essex cylinder head bolt torque settings are incorrect now?

I thought back in the day Ford issued a service note recommending higher torque settings.
Ref to the question, the answer is NO if you are using the correct Reinz head gaskets


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Re: Useful Torque Wrench Settings

Post by franko14 » Thu Feb 17, 2011 2:26 pm

thanks

very helpful, much appreciated :D


cheers,
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Re: Useful Torque Wrench Settings

Post by scimjim » Sat Feb 19, 2011 9:31 am

are the figures in red based on experience or any technical data/Ford updates etc?

The original head bolt torque was 70, Ford changed it to 90 - not sure where 110 comes from?

can this be a sticky mods - we can add other models later?


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Re: Useful Torque Wrench Settings

Post by jeff hoole » Sat Feb 19, 2011 9:37 am

Figures in red are for 6b 2.8

jeff


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Re: Useful Torque Wrench Settings

Post by Roger Pennington » Sat Feb 19, 2011 10:20 am

[mod edit - post "stickied " as requested]

[mod hat off] speaking personally, although of course you can never have too much information, it does prompt the thought that, (while I haven't checked absolutely every one), I believe all those figures are in the manual. Is it good that somebody should be attempting a job that needs torque wrench figures, without a manual?


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Re: Useful Torque Wrench Settings

Post by scimjim » Sat Feb 19, 2011 10:23 am

jeff hoole wrote:Figures in red are for 6b 2.8

jeff
:mrgreen: RTFI :D

in which case, Chris is right, Ford changed the head bolts torque to 90 (I have the service bulletin somewhere) - I don't remember them specifying gasket type?


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Re: Useful Torque Wrench Settings

Post by scimjim » Sat Feb 19, 2011 10:27 am

I agree with Roger on the use of a manual but sometimes the figures aren't on the page you're using (some aren't even in the same book!) and it's handy to have a quick reference page.

Essex ARP con rod bolts (bi-hex) are higher than standard ones - 45 FT LBS WITH ARP LUBE/65 FT LBS WITH OIL (30W) - from Burtons website.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Re: Useful Torque Wrench Settings

Post by chrisgallacher » Sat Feb 19, 2011 10:44 am

I think the Ford service bulletin in 1974 increased the recommended torque to 81-86 lb-ft for the Essex head bolts from the earlier 65-70 lb-ft, irrespective of gasket used. Over the years respected engine builders have unofficially rounded this to 90 lb-ft, with initial steps at 30 and 60 lb-ft. This appears consistently to be pretty much the advice offered in Slice, and here on the forum.

I can only go by what I've read, and in Slice 170 p17 John Wade describes the earlier 65-70 lb-ft figure as "woefully inadequate" which will impart insufficient preload to the bolts leading to gasket failure. By implication he suggests this includes the Ford/Reinz gasket. He also describes the Reliant torque figures of 25-30 lb-ft for the Essex big-end bolts as "dangerously wrong", suggesting a correct figure is 39-43 lb-ft.


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Re: Useful Torque Wrench Settings

Post by GrahamWalker » Fri Feb 25, 2011 10:26 am

Roger Pennington wrote:[mod edit - post "stickied " as requested]

[mod hat off] speaking personally, although of course you can never have too much information, it does prompt the thought that, (while I haven't checked absolutely every one), I believe all those figures are in the manual. Is it good that somebody should be attempting a job that needs torque wrench figures, without a manual?

correct these are figures from the 2nd edition GW catalogue and are based on a standard engine with correct standard parts


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Re: Useful Torque Wrench Settings

Post by Taggers » Fri Jul 08, 2011 8:58 am

Hi ya, just looking for reassurance here.

From the manual, the front suspension (LWR) figures are:

"Lower wishbone braket to frame 26-32 lb/ft

Lower wishbone pivot to bracket 38-46 lb/ft"

Is that right? 26lb/ft is very puny!

I'm assuming the second one is the bolt through the wisbone and the bracket, but that (new) bracket is spread, should I give it a good tighten to close things up and then loosen it to 38? I think if I just torqued it to 38 there would be lots of slop.



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Re: Useful Torque Wrench Settings

Post by Roger Pennington » Fri Jul 08, 2011 11:43 am

WRT the bracket mountings, that does sound ok - bear in mind that they aren't huge bolts - only 3/8 unf, so that's about the standard figure I think. Also, from memory, aren't they locking nuts?

I can't give a definite answer to the second question, as the last ones I changed were the "previous generation" upgraded brackets, which weren't splayed like the current ones (though were also thinner). The thought does go through my mind though, that presumably if you're concerned about it, you could "adjust" them off the car in a vice untill they were a perfect fit?


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Re: Useful Torque Wrench Settings

Post by Taggers » Fri Jul 08, 2011 11:52 am

Yeah, I'm sure you are right Roger, I'm just wary, because a) torque figures are there for a reason, and b) these are not bits I want dropping off or busting. Splaying them makes fitting newly bushed wishbones a breeze, but as the only bit of a scimitar with known fatigue problems I'm slightly worried about "exercising" them more than absolutely essential.

The chances of getting a torque wrench on the front bracket bolts are so minimal as to render it probably academic, anyway.

I will proceed with a strong heart and common sense.


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Re: Useful Torque Wrench Settings

Post by toomanysabres » Fri Jul 08, 2011 12:16 pm

The splayed opening will be for fitting as they are thick metal to avoid the fatigue problems in the past so they will need to be wound up to go parallel on assembly. Maybe reset to correct torque for the bolt after that.


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