SS1 fuel tank removal

Have you documented a Scimitar related procedure and would like to share it with others? Pictures are most welcome!
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scimjim
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SS1 fuel tank removal

Post by scimjim » Sun Sep 09, 2018 7:17 pm

reliant-reviver wrote:
Sun Sep 09, 2018 10:38 am
Had the tank out on an SS1 yesterday morning. Took me longest part of the job was clearing the junk out the boot!

Basic guide -
Boot open
Mark around striker with pencil and remove
Remove boot liner fixings: T25 head torx to sides, screws to the back edge, bolt through into wheel arch in each back corner.
Unscrew boot light, withdraw and disconnect wiring by easing tub forward.
If an early click clack strut, then remove the fixings at the boot tub.
If gas struts lift clips with flat blade and squeeze off the studs. Then remove the studs with a deep 13mm socket.
You will then need to support the bootlid at its maximum opening position
From underneath push the boot liner up, using your knees or a jack and wood depending how stuck it is. You will need to ease the sides inwards over the captive nuts for the boot struts.

Tank now visible.
13mm socket to undo tank training straps. You can undo the back bolts and bend the straps up. Or undo the forward bolts also and leave the straps stuck to the tank. Snip or cut the fuel lines. Plugging if necessary. The sender stubs are brittle, don't try to pull the pipes off.
Undo the filler neck and breather worm drive clips. always use a socket by preference, 6mm for original Norma brand or 7mm for most aftermarket and Jubilee brand.

Lever tank up from chassis as it will be stuck to the insulation. Pull LH end towards you and withdraw the tank whilst easing the filler neck pipe off.

Drain tank. Separate water from fuel (retain for lawn mower).
Remove sender by knocking the lock ring back arrive with a punch and hammer.
Withdraw the sender.
Shake out the assorted items in the tank.
Inspect, clean and fitment is the reverse of removal

Pictures -
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scimjim wrote:
Sun Sep 09, 2018 7:14 pm
I’m going to copy this as a sticky.

For the sake of 4 bolts, I would always take the bootlid off and depending upon tank type, the fuel and vent connections can be in different positions (including outlet underneath).


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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SS1 fuel tank removal

Post by reliant-reviver » Sun Sep 09, 2018 8:48 pm

Oh no please not another sticky.

Any more and the forum would be useful as fly paper.

Rather not remove the bootlid, risk damaging it's paintwork and having too set the alignment up again.

The liner squeezes out not problem.

We can migrate this to the Wiki some day (along with all the other sticks please)


Philip Andrew.
'74 Robin Super Saloon, '84 SS1 1300, '86 SS1 1800ti, '87 SS1 1300
Previous: I lost count around fifty.

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