Trunnion bolt torque

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Scim6
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Re: Trunnion bolt torque

Post by Scim6 » Fri Sep 10, 2010 6:08 pm

the greese seal is a press fit metal ring that holds the front wheel bearing closest to the upright in and holds a fabric seal, I cannot get the bugger in and already have broken one trying.


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Re: Trunnion bolt torque NOW FRONT HUB OIL SEAL

Post by Dennis Nicholas » Sat Sep 11, 2010 3:26 pm

scim6
have a look at yahoo groups reliant scimitar photos....photo album - 6a front hub seals. Picture DSCF0034 shows the components in the order that they go together on the front O/S.
The smallest ring with the recess you can see goes onto the stub axle and the recess fits over the protruding sholder on the vertical link.
The largest ring on the right fits into the hub casing with the face you can see facing away from the hub.
The middle ring is the felt seal that goes around the little ring and inside the larger ring (soak felt in an oil containing Molyslip.
The large ring is an interference fit into the hub so it stays stationary in the hub.
The small ring is a slight interference fit on the stub so stays stationary.
The felt is free to rotate round small and inside large rings.


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Re: Trunnion bolt torque

Post by philhoward » Sat Sep 11, 2010 3:39 pm

You mean this?
Image


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Re: Trunnion bolt torque

Post by Dennis Nicholas » Sat Sep 11, 2010 3:51 pm

That is the picture......afraid I my brain still does not easily retain the process for putting the pictures on here......I have to look up the info.


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Re: Trunnion bolt torque

Post by Dennis Nicholas » Sat Sep 11, 2010 4:02 pm

Scim6 wrote:the greese seal is a press fit metal ring that holds the front wheel bearing closest to the upright in and holds a fabric seal, I cannot get the bugger in and already have broken one trying.
You have to ensure the ring is square to the hub as you are trying to press it in. You may want to have a round piece of wood, near enough the exact diameter to fit inside the ring, held against the ring and tap the wood with a hammer. Check that the hub has not been distorted in this area......just had a look at one of my spares and oil seals and see the hub has had a bash which has swollen the metal into the opening where the ring goes (this will have to be put in the lathe and trued up). (A round wooden tapered table or chair leg can provide a good source of different diameter ends depending where you saw through it...and they are usually made from a hard wood.....I have a bag full of them.....also used for bearing fitting/removal)


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Re: Trunnion bolt torque

Post by Scim6 » Sat Sep 11, 2010 8:04 pm

thats the jobbie, I tried getting something close to the right diameter but it proved very hard to keep it from just going in at an angle. I will have another good bash it is quite annoying because it is holding the hole job up and after that there is just fitting it which is a doddle.

Steve


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Re: Trunnion bolt torque

Post by Taggers » Thu Jun 16, 2011 12:27 pm

Coming back to trunnions...

I've got to marmalise a trunnion this weekend. I have a QRG trunnion and a rebuild kit.

The kit contains 4 big (1 1/2 "ish) cup washers of thin, plated steel, and 4 thin "O" rings that seem to fit into the cup. The trunnion that's on doesn't have any of this (that I can see) and seems to have a big, thick penny washer either side, and then the nylon top hat.


Where do these bits go, please?


Chris


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Re: Trunnion bolt torque

Post by JoeySully » Thu Jun 16, 2011 12:47 pm

Image

You can see the setup in the diagram
setup should be - Flat Washer / tophat / rubber seal / cupped washer / metal cylinder and at the other end of the wishbone eye would be the other way round metal cylinder/ cupped washer / rubber seal / tophat / Flat washer



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Re: Trunnion bolt torque

Post by Taggers » Thu Jun 16, 2011 12:52 pm

Gotcha, thanks for that. I have a copy of the reliant manual, but there are pages missing, I fear.


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Re: Trunnion bolt torque

Post by scmarf » Thu Apr 12, 2012 1:32 pm

Just done this job. My technique:

1. Remove paint/powder coating from the faces of the lower wishbones (4 faces).
2. Clean out bores of wishbones ('eyes' if you prefer) until the plastic bushes can be pushed in by hand but still be gripped (they should move with the wishbones but too tight and the bore starts to grip the sleeve through the middle).
3. Drill and fit grease nipples as stated above.
4. Assemble seal carriers, nylon bushes and sleeves.
5. Check the sleeves are flush or slightly proud of the nylon bush end faces.
6. Assemble as per book.
7. Torque up to correct figure and check the bolt moves with the trunnion and everything moves freely. Yes?- Job done!
8. If it is locked solid, back off the torque until it moves.
9. If you then find the bolt stays stationary as the trunnion is moved, modify as above comments, or you have short sleeves and need to remedy.
10. If you find the bolt moves with the trunnion and no 'excessive' force is required - job done (apart from putting the spit pin in :!: :!: :!: )

I dont worry too much about the torque figure. If it all works properly, the split pin will ensure nothing comes loose. I think the high torque tends to barrel the sleeves and make things a bit too tight.

I have a diagram of how the trunnion assembly is supposed to work from an article I did in the early 80s. I'll try and search it out tonight. Maybe a Slice article too as I have just done all this on a 5a so can get some photo. Watch this space.


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Re: Trunnion bolt torque

Post by scmarf » Fri Apr 13, 2012 10:02 pm

scmarf wrote: .... I'll try and search it out tonight. Maybe a Slice article too as I have just done all this on a 5a so can get some photo. Watch this space.
Couldn't find the diagram but took this of the grease nipple mod.
Attachments
trunnion1sm.JPG
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Re: Trunnion bolt torque

Post by mick.wilson » Fri Jun 22, 2012 11:55 am

Hi,
My trunnion failed on my Scimitar (thinks its a Robin now) have done the passengers side in, I wanted to find out if it this is the part number I am looking for my 1971 motor 142377, is it the same as TR4 TR6?
Any help would be much appreciated

Mick

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Image



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Re: Trunnion bolt torque

Post by windy » Fri Jun 22, 2012 12:10 pm

Yes, same as TR6 AFAIK



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Re: Trunnion bolt torque

Post by IanC » Thu Jun 08, 2017 4:51 pm

Hi,
Scmarf's pic of the assembled trunnion set up is a thing of beauty - unlike the steel collar I got out of my GTC's lower front suspension yesterday (photo).
I had been chasing the source of an intermittent grating when the car was 'bounced' and a sharp 'clack' I sometimes got when reversing/braking. Since the upper wishbone bushes are poly bushed (and hopefully OK) and the upper ball joints are new, I had a go at the trunnion bushes. When I took them to bits I found that the cupped washer (and the rubber ring) were absent from the front driver's side lower wishbone - not the set up as specified in JoeySully's post above! I also had a heckuva job getting the steel collar/ nylon bushes out - it took maximum force. The reason was that the steel part had rusted and was 'welded' to the nylon bushes, probably as there was no seal to keep water out.
I'm guessing that the strange noises must have been the steel collar rotating against the retaining bolt, rather than the steel part rotating within the nylon bushes.

I'll do the passenger side as well, as a matter of course BTW.
Ian
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Re: Trunnion bolt torque

Post by scmarf » Mon Jun 19, 2017 1:39 pm

I have had stainless bushes made up. If you do the same, as stated above, length is as critical as diameter to ensure bolt clamps them rather than the wishbones and still compresses the seal rings enough for them to do their job. Maybe have them slightly over-size and file to fit on assembly. Obviously, if you have wear or plastic deformation on the trunnion itself (maybe from overtightening the bolt or the bushes seizing on the bolt), this will have to be taken into account. One of the first jobs I did on the 6a was trunnion bushes. It was a pain because the sleeves had corroded to the bolt so the only way to dismantle it was to take the wishbones off and/or hacksaw through. :evil:

Incidentally, we decided to visit the 'Antiques Roadshow' last Thursday and whilst ferreting around in the loft, I discovered the original trunnion assembly drawing so I will scan that in and post it here.


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