SE6b Cooling

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se6b
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SE6b Cooling

Post by se6b » Sun Sep 20, 2020 5:40 pm

Sure this has been covered before.....Newbie Alert!

Probably a stupid question, but when filling up an SE6b is it via the header tank on the left hand side of engine bay or is there another filling cap that I can’t find?!

What’s the correct level of coolant for a cold Se6b and when filling up the via header tank is there a mark to indicate the correct level or should it just be up to the overflow tube level?

Any recommendations as to the coolant used?

Many thanks!



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Dennis Nicholas
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SE6b Cooling

Post by Dennis Nicholas » Tue Sep 22, 2020 12:57 am

I think you mean the overflow/header tank on the right hand side of the engine bay looking from behind the wheel??

Yes, remove spring loaded pressure cap (13psi) and pour water in. The level is with surface just above the outlet at the back bottom.
I have a dipstick marked at 1 1/8 inches from bottom of tank showing where surface level is. (this allows for frequent checking in case a very small leak is suspected.
Overfill and surplus water will be ejected from the little outlet at the neck of the tank so system will self level.

Use the older type ethylene glycol 50/50 mix. DO NOT USE THE MORE RECENT OAT (Organic Acid Technology)
Or if you can guarantee no leaks and happy with the cost use the new waterless coolant by Evans.

Dennis


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1980 GTC Trafalgar Blue, 2010 basic Skoda Yeti (petrol), Austin 7s, Rileys.

se6b
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SE6b Cooling

Post by se6b » Tue Sep 22, 2020 11:08 am

Thanks Dennis. Your help is greatly appreciated!!

So if I’ve understood you correctly the coolant level should sit just over an inch then from the bottom of the overflow/header tank? I was wondering whether mine needed topped up to just below the overflow pipe level at the top of the overflow tank, but as you say I guess it would sort itself out via the overflow pipe anyway.



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Dennis Nicholas
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SE6b Cooling

Post by Dennis Nicholas » Wed Sep 23, 2020 9:54 am

Yes from bottom; No to top up to to overflow pipe; Yes sorts itself out.
But beware small leaks especially at corroded metal spigots like the alloy thermostat housings. Build them up with something like JB weld then use strips of rubbing down cloth around them to smooth down to original round shape; also beware casting ridges sticking up making seal almost impossible - same process - sand them down to round.
Cologne rear thermostat housing -- line up with bolts before thermostat in place but with front casting on and hold in place with a wood wedge; remove front housing, put in seal and thermostat --very careful not to trap seal out of recess between thermostat rim and pump housing face; if you do and you tighten up, the joint will leak round gasket and the casting lugs will be bent and need bending back or filing flat to face of casting. It is more of a fiddle than you would hope for....stick seal and thermostat in place with a small amount of gasket seal to avoid it falling out/moving down under gravity. When putting bolts back in it should be easier as rear holes will all be lined up and they should just screw gently back in. Also I cut off excess length of bolt that sticks out of rear casting so that corroded bolt ends do not get stuck and ruin thread in soft casting.....taking off one at a time to cut so don't disturb the whole thing.

Dennis


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SE6b Cooling

Post by efi_sprintgte » Wed Sep 23, 2020 11:01 am



JC

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Dennis Nicholas
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SE6b Cooling

Post by Dennis Nicholas » Thu Sep 24, 2020 11:04 pm

That is for Essex 6a?
se6b is talking about 6b which has Cologne engine and different overflow system.
Dennis


Dennis Nicholas(RSSOC)
1980 GTC Trafalgar Blue, 2010 basic Skoda Yeti (petrol), Austin 7s, Rileys.

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