SE6a Electrical fuel pump

Moderators: scimjim, erikscimitardemon, Lukeyboy46, Roger Pennington, philhoward

Post Reply
Tinker man
RSSOC Member
Posts: 364
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire
Has thanked: 14 times
Been thanked: 17 times

SE6a Electrical fuel pump

Post by Tinker man » Mon Nov 26, 2018 10:03 am

good morning all,

can i try to pick your brains please before i embark on this small project? everything pretty standard apart from 38DGMS not DGAS (new). lots of questions, most of which are probably simple, but i want to get everything together before i start the project and be clear in my mind what i am doing. i have found various threads but i just want to be clear.

i want to put an electric fuel pump on the car for a few reasons and have a few questions, clarifications. i will be buying a facet silver top pump (4-4.5 psi pressure so sounds right).

questions
1. do I need a pressure regulator as well?
2. filter before the pump, i guess is the way to go?
3. do i need a fuel return line from the 38DGMS back to the tank?
4. i have searched on the forum and some suggest a Inertia fuel cut off switch... i have never done this and looking on line i can see loots of different ones for specific cars, does anyone have a suggestion of what to use?
5. do i need to use a relay to operate the pump? direct feed and separate fuse i imagine.
6. mechanical fuel pump blanking plate.. is there a specific one available or should i just make one?
7. is there a preferred routs for the fuel line in the engine bay?

very sorry for all the questions and appreciate the help as always.


best regards, Ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

User avatar
philhoward
RSSOC Member
Posts: 25143
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 5:41 pm
Location: Staffs, UK
Has thanked: 58 times
Been thanked: 624 times
Contact:

SE6a Electrical fuel pump

Post by philhoward » Mon Nov 26, 2018 10:19 am

1. Yes (3-3.5psi rings a bell). Personally I'd get a Filter King combined filter/pressure regulator, but that's me.
2. Pump normally has its own pre-filter (built into the inlet union)?
3. You should already have a return line being a 6a.
4. Yes. They pretty much all work the same way, only the fitment (connectors) change. Some you can fit miniature spade terminals to, others require a specific connector (from the donor vehicle) but it depends on the one used.
5. I would - use a separate relay and fused feed just to avoid any confusion (and load on the existing circuits).
6. Most people make their own, I think?
7. Follow the original path is probably best - inside of the chassis, up the suspension upright/front cover. Keep it away from sources of direct heat where possible, really (such as radiators and exhausts).

At least you're going with a Facet - there have been reports of short lifespans of "Facet-style" ones currently available.


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

rebel alliance
Posts: 861
Joined: Thu Mar 03, 2016 9:20 pm
Has thanked: 10 times
Been thanked: 54 times

SE6a Electrical fuel pump

Post by rebel alliance » Mon Nov 26, 2018 11:00 am

You will need a cut off switch.I have one not sure of make but its got a red rubber reset button.Burton power sell blanking plates



User avatar
peter freeman
RSSOC Member
Posts: 9932
Joined: Thu Aug 31, 2006 12:12 pm
Location: Newcastle
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 356 times
Contact:

SE6a Electrical fuel pump

Post by peter freeman » Mon Nov 26, 2018 11:27 am

I have a SU pump on our Coupe - no return line, pressure 4psi no pressure reducer required, the higher pressure pumps are for fuel injection. The pump runs from a green wire - powered when ignition on - best if you have a separate fuse for it. You do need a inertia switch - I bought the same as used on our MB-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Inertia-Swit ... Sw1IVbyxNw
Switch next to the servo and pump on the right under the water pipe - blanking plate I made myself
Attachments
C6-2016.jpg
C6-2016.jpg (194.44 KiB) Viewed 841 times



User avatar
philhoward
RSSOC Member
Posts: 25143
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 5:41 pm
Location: Staffs, UK
Has thanked: 58 times
Been thanked: 624 times
Contact:

SE6a Electrical fuel pump

Post by philhoward » Mon Nov 26, 2018 11:35 am

My old SE5 also had an SU pump fitted thinking about it - conveniently they stop clicking when the float chamber is full. Think mine was from an MGB but managed to keep up with the Essex no problem.


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

Tinker man
RSSOC Member
Posts: 364
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire
Has thanked: 14 times
Been thanked: 17 times

SE6a Electrical fuel pump

Post by Tinker man » Mon Nov 26, 2018 12:22 pm

thanks everyone.

much clearer now for me. Parts list pretty much completed, christmas is coming so that is good timing.

:-D


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

Dave 6726
RSSOC Member
Posts: 461
Joined: Wed Dec 27, 2006 3:07 pm
Location: Northumberland
Has thanked: 53 times
Been thanked: 11 times

SE6a Electrical fuel pump

Post by Dave 6726 » Mon Nov 26, 2018 3:20 pm

philhoward wrote:
Mon Nov 26, 2018 11:35 am
My old SE5 also had an SU pump fitted thinking about it - conveniently they stop clicking when the float chamber is full. Think mine was from an MGB but managed to keep up with the Essex no problem.
I did the same when I had a 5a. If you do that, don't forget an inertia cut-out switch! :)



Post Reply

Return to “Se6/6a/6b/GTC”