Scimitar SE6a Restoration - Head Gasket

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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration -Tick Tick Tick Go Away!

Post by Roger Pennington » Wed Jun 02, 2010 7:44 pm

That does tend to suggest that it's ignition-related then. Have you checked that all the earthing braids round the engine/bulhead area (as per Jon's starting thread) are present and correct?

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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration -Tick Tick Tick Go Away!

Post by scimjim » Wed Jun 02, 2010 7:47 pm

rev counter?


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration -Tick Tick Tick Go Away!

Post by JoeySully » Wed Jun 02, 2010 7:49 pm

That is a job that I've been meaning to do - there are some of the braids and wires for earthing fitted but id like to beef them up with some new earthing wires. Its one of those jobs on the to do list ;). It would explain my poor battery charging when I use my lights too.



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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - Some More Earth Please

Post by JoeySully » Wed Jun 23, 2010 8:38 pm

Iv been busy doing some engine wiring upgrades. My alternator was not able to keep the battery charged if I used even dipped headlights. The gauge would go down to the red when I used the headlights and after a 60 mile drive it would be quite flat.

I found some useful wiring in an old 405 we had at home which was perfect for the job. Also got some good convoluted tubing to protect the wires too.

First job was to beef up the earths. I fitted a new main earth wire and also moved the earth that came off the power steering pump to the cross-member bolt. The smaller cable was the connected the the flat earthing braid that goes from the bonnet hinge to the metal sheet on the bulkhead.
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I used my old main earth wire to make an earth direct from the alternator bolt to the cross-member too. Its not pretty but does the job.
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My starter motor has had a bit of a sticky solenoid and wouldn't engage every now and then so time to fit the spare and replace the wiring while I was at it.

When I got the wiring out i found all the wires going to the starter and gearbox were in pretty bad shape and were not far off causing a breakdown soon.
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Getting the starter motor out is a PAIN IN THE you know what. Go there eventually though.
Offered up the new one which went in much easier. then attached the new wiring.
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New earth wire to the chassis - this kinda stumped me taking the starter off I didn't know it was attached :oops:

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so all new wiring and covered with that convoluted tubing which should keep the heat from the manifolds from drying out the wiring for a good few years

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I didn't bother using the original clamps for the wires on the engine mount bracket, think it would just cause the wires to chafe and end up the way they were before.
See that supper rubber bush ? well its only 6 months old :roll:. The other side is worse. They really don't last long.

So great result - My starter now engages every time and spins the engine much faster.
The alternator is at ~14v with the engine running at ~2k rpm and with the dips on it drops to 13v and with high beam its at about 12v. Much better :). Its great when something you do makes a noticeable difference.


I also picked up one of these on the cheap 8) - had to ring my MA to tell me how to thread it up. turned out my Dad new more about it :D
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Im using it to make my new headlining

After a bit of practice I started with the webasto inside lining
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worked out well so far - just need to sew in the bits that hold it onto the frame which will be a bit tricky.

so whats next
Before I did the wiring I had ordered an new LRA517 Alternator which I'll probably fit anyway once it arrives
Have to get some new tyres
Get the suspension tracked properly
Fit new exhaust
Fit a few dash bulbs
Get the Ignition timing and valves set
Figure out and TIDY UP headlight wiring

Mostly garage stuff then :roll: Would do the exhaust myself but need the brackets for the center boxes welded so probably easier to get it fitted while it on a ramp. Dont know how to set the ignition timing / valves either
Last edited by JoeySully on Wed Jun 23, 2010 8:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.



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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - Some More Earth Please

Post by scimjim » Wed Jun 23, 2010 8:42 pm

those wires were going to cause more than a breakdown :shock:

That scotchlok in the second picture is only good for emergency repairs - I presume it's gone now? :lol:


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - Some More Earth Please

Post by JoeySully » Wed Jun 23, 2010 8:46 pm

scimjim wrote:
That scotchlok in the second picture is only good for emergency repairs - I presume it's gone now? :lol:
That's part of my mystery headlight wiring :shock: - I'll add that to the TO DO LIST :D



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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - Some More Earth Please

Post by SteveyC » Wed Jun 30, 2010 7:47 pm

Fantastic project thread.
Really inspirational for those of us starting ou on the journey :-)
Don't think I'll be quite as ambitious but all the photos are invaluable information.

Thanks a lot, great read.


'76 SE6a manual overdrive and '78 SE6a awaiting reinstatement.

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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - Some More Earth Please

Post by JoeySully » Tue Jul 06, 2010 10:24 am

SteveyC wrote:Fantastic project thread.
Really inspirational for those of us starting ou on the journey :-)
Don't think I'll be quite as ambitious but all the photos are invaluable information.

Thanks a lot, great read.
Thanks Steve - glad you enjoyed it. Its all a new experience for me too:)



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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - New Carpet

Post by JoeySully » Thu Sep 16, 2010 6:33 pm

Well havnt done an update in ages - nothing has really been done I guess which is good news really ;) Nothing done means everything is working

Some nice updates though
while I was in the UK I got some new (to me) front seats
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They are so much more comfortable than the old ones and look a lot better too. No rips or tears.


also I got my new full carpet set today from eBay :D what a bargain I think worked out at just under £100 delivered to Ireland from the UK.

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I planned to cut a new set myself but at that price it was a no-brainer ;)
I wont fit it for a while - It will be done while I replace the Vinyl roof and Webasto. Still a few bits to get for that job though.



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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - New Carpet

Post by scimjim » Thu Sep 16, 2010 10:17 pm

where did the carpet come from - I'll have one at that price :shock:


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - New Carpet

Post by JoeySully » Fri Sep 17, 2010 8:19 am

scimjim wrote:where did the carpet come from - I'll have one at that price :shock:
It was an auction on ebay for a full set. Stated for the se6B but it should be the same. Started at £1. I was surprised really that it didn't make more



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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - New Carpet

Post by MickP » Sat Oct 02, 2010 4:25 pm

Looking back at your post: did you end up fitting a pair of speakers in the rear panel, in front of the rear lights? If you did, was it a good choice? There is a reasonable volume behind there so it might have worked OK.

I am looking at a decent sound system so just wondered how that position worked for one pair of speakers.

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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - New Carpet

Post by JoeySully » Mon Oct 04, 2010 9:03 am

MickP wrote:Looking back at your post: did you end up fitting a pair of speakers in the rear panel, in front of the rear lights? If you did, was it a good choice? There is a reasonable volume behind there so it might have worked OK.

I am looking at a decent sound system so just wondered how that position worked for one pair of speakers.

Michael.
Hi Mick

No I havn't fitted those speakers yet. There is plenty of space for some 6*9 in there. I have a few leaks back there that I need to sort out before I fit them. Need to get some panels made up too.
I don't think they are really that necessary though. The 4 speaker system works and sounds fine although its lacking a bit of base.
I was looking for some 6" for the rear panel but these seem to be difficult to find.



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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - A New Year, A New List

Post by JoeySully » Tue Jan 18, 2011 12:05 pm

Well I finally got the Scimitar out of winter storage at the weekend.

It seems to have help up well over the winter and sprung into life after a few turns of the engine.

First job was to adjust the handbrake which was only pulling on one side. My new Halfords 4x4 jack was a great addition to my tool set at Xmas. It lifted the car clear off the ground, both wheels by jacking from one side of the car. And it goes low enough to fit under the car without having to use a second scissors jack to lift it up a tad first. So a quick adjustment at the rear hub and the handbrake was all sorted. Still need to adjust it at the gearbox end though.

Went for a spin and all seems well. I seem to be running a bit cold though. This may be a false reading however as I think the fuel gauge is reading low too. I do have a semi-conductor voltage regulator fitted so I will have to investigate why its running cold. Perhaps the thermostat is stuck open.

Driving yesterday I found that the fan was not that effective as they used to be.
I "accidentally" bought a new heater fan motor on eBay last year (it was listed as a cooling fan motor) So I though it would be a good time to get it fitted. They are a pain in the but to get out of their home. The new motor went in nicely although it did have some slight differences and blew the air with great force. I also replaced the gauze that was fitted with some more agricultural mesh to aid air flow. There is now a nice bit of air flow coming out of the vents and I only have one motor fitted. Will get the other one back in tonight. I think the passenger one may have been wired up and blowing the wrong way though.

I do notice that there is more airflow at the passenger foot well than the drivers so I'm going to make a flap to cover the passenger vent so that there is more on the drivers side. I don't have passengers that much and I like my heat. I will make it so that you can just flip it up and open the vent when needed though.

Another problem I'm seeing is that there is now no heat at the windscreen but plenty at my feet. I will have to back flush the heater matrix and see if that will solve it, Maybe an air lock. Weird that its hot at the feet and cold at the windscreen. Does the flap that opens for the windscreen direct air to the bottom of the matrix or the top?

So Over the winter iv been thinking about stuff that needs to be done. I've been collection some parts too that I'll get fitted over the next few months
so the list as it stands now!

Electrical
fit Xjs mirrors
Wire up XJS Mirrors
fit updated rear lights
Fit speakers in rear of car
Relay headlights
clean heater fan motors
Fit new electric fan motor.
clean sticky rev counter
fix bonnet light
fix interior dimmer light
make rear hatch light switch
Fit Uprated Alternator.
Use multi core wire at door hinges

interior
fit interior carpet
Replace headlining
secure amp to box
secure amp box to boot floor
Fit new seat belts

Exterior
replace Webasto sunroof
replace drain tubes at rear hatch and side windows.
drill drain holes in spare wheel tray
replace rear hatch frame seal
replace rear hatch seal
replace Windscreen seal
replace side rubbing strip
fit rear wiper tray.
paint light surrounds
replace front bumper
fit tow bar/ electrics

Engine
fit silicone radiator hoses
fit coolant filter
adjust choke
fix exhaust bracket
replace exhaust rubbers
Fit Alan Dean Gauzes

Suspension
Drill Trunnion bolt pin hole.
fit longer springs at front
fit wheel cylinder / shoes
Fit new Rear Trailing Arms.
Fit new upper Fulcrums
Fit Poly-bush upper bushes
Replace Brake Callipers.


SHOPPING LIST/WANTED
Electrical
XJS mirror switch
eBay Rear Lorry Lights
rear panels for speakers.
relays for headlights
Bonnet light.
Ball bearing boot switch from 306
Dimmer Relay for interior light.
12/13 core multi wire cable
Alternator wire.

Interior
Contact Adhesive for Carpet and Vinyl
Carpet underlay.
Securon seat Belts
Seat belt Buckles

Exterior
Rear hatch joining bracket.
Front Windscreen Seal.
Side strip for edge of vinyl
Tow bar bolts

Engine
New radiator hoses
SS wire for coolant filter
SS for Alan Dean Gauzes
Poly bushes for Upper Fulcrum
LHS Brake Calliper
Last edited by JoeySully on Mon Jul 04, 2011 11:38 pm, edited 8 times in total.



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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - A New Year, A New List

Post by Roger Pennington » Tue Jan 18, 2011 12:36 pm

JoeySully wrote:Another problem I'm seeing is that there is now no heat at the windscreen but plenty at my feet. I will have to back flush the heater matrix and see if that will solve it, Maybe an air lock. Weird that its hot at the feet and cold at the windscreen. Does the flap that opens for the windscreen direct air to the bottom of the matrix or the top?
If it's hot at your feet then that suggests the matrix is ok, as usually if it's hot, it's hot. It's much more likely that your problem is the flap not flapping, the foam that should seal the flap having decayed/fallen off and blocked things, or the pipe connections having fallen off.

....Roger


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