Scimitar SE6a Restoration - Head Gasket

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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - Clutch Slave Replacement

Post by philhoward » Tue Nov 19, 2013 9:21 am

Depends if MX5 seats (or XJ-S, or some others) are cheaper than a new seat membrane?


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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - Clutch Slave Replacement

Post by AJL Electronics » Tue Nov 19, 2013 10:10 am

Then you need a pair of seats at least and of course they will not match. Much simpler to get either the right part or some Pirelli Webbing. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270974784255? ... 1438.l2649

Bear in mind that as well as the webbing, you will also need the end clips. There are four strips required left to right and a pair of diagonals The original wire hooks will be useful to attach the clips to the frame.


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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - Clutch Slave Replacement

Post by AJL Electronics » Tue Nov 19, 2013 10:37 am

pirelli.JPG
pirelli.JPG (122.14 KiB) Viewed 1501 times


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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - Clutch Slave Replacement

Post by Coco La Blanc » Tue Nov 19, 2013 10:56 am

Joe,
I have some XJS seats that you might like ?
Regards,
Viv



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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - Clutch Slave Replacement

Post by JoeySully » Tue Nov 19, 2013 12:04 pm

Thanks Viv, I think the xjs seats are nice for the se5 but Im sure they wont be long before they need work too. A modern seat should last a long time, ohh and your a bit far away to pop over :lol:

Thanks for the image AJL

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I can use the old seat belts sewn together in a hoop to fit over the existing web and rubber base support. It will surely give a good sturdy base with little stretch but at least it wont be sagging to the floor.

I tried using 2 seat-belts knotted together last night and its better than before but it was difficult to knot the seat-belt tightly.
I'll get the base off and try again.



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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration -Fuse box and Relays

Post by JoeySully » Tue Mar 04, 2014 8:58 pm

No update for a while but have been busy. back in 2010 I replaced the fuse box because the headlight fuse had burnt the plastic around the terminal leading to non functional headlights. After replacing, everything was good but after a winter driving it happened again... this time worse than before so I drove on without hi beam for a year, not that I noticed because I wasn't driving it much while doing other jobs.

For ages I have been collecting parts to do the job of installing a new fuse box in the engine bay and some relays to power the main heavy draw items, specifically hi/low beam headlights, heater blower fans, radiator fan, front fog lights, so 7 relays in all to do them. I had though about doing the horn too but its only used occasionally so not really needed.

Circuit 1 - High Beam outer
Circuit 2 - High Beam inner
Circuit 3 - Low Beam inner
Circuit 4 - Heater low speed
Circuit 5 - Heater High speed
Circuit 6 - Front Fog lights
Circuit 7 - Radiator Fan
Circuit 8 - TBD

The main reasons for doing it was, improved lighting, protect fuse-box from heavy loads that cause melting, reduce the load on the dash switches.

Step 1 was to make room in the engine bay. The best place I found was next to the wiper motor, the windshield washer bottle was in the way so that was relocated over to the other side of the engine bay. Wiring and hose for the washer pump were extended around the front of the car. I don't have a rear wiper anymore so I got a new single pump washer bottle that fits in the space nicely. Removing the washer bottle also left me with a nice hole already cut for the wiring loom to pass through the wing. I also moved the coil so that I had more room. The single alternator wire was redirected over the engine direct to the battery rather than meandering around the front of the engine bay. The "ignition light" wire from the alternator was also fed with alongside it and re routed out with the wiring next to the wiper motor. the wires over the engine bay were covered in some heavy duty heat shrink. It should do a good job protecting it.

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I wired up the fuse-box and relay boxes out of the car. The fuse box takes 2 separate "buses", these are fed from the connector block attached to the starter motor cable where the alternator wires used to be fed.
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I then started stripping down the wiring from the front end, lights and fan motors removed I could then pull the old wiring loom through the passenger headlight. To my surprise most of the wiring was in good shape. I did find a one or areas where the wires cover had cracked but nothing very bad. I did find the bullet ends of the wires ver corroded, not rusty just white/grey corrosion. It was most obvious on the earth wires.
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I trimmed the wires and added some terminals and fitted them to an 8 way terminal block. Rather than feeding them back into the wing I felt it would be easier to prepare the relays out of the car and feed them to the terminal block near the headlight.

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I bought 15m of red and 10m of black 17amp wire for the job, a bit overkill for some of the items as I found after, the inner sealed beam headlights use ~4 amps. I ended up using it all.

The circuits were all numbered and I used some sticky labels at each end of the wires to keep account of each one. I used 3/4 way terminal blocks to connect the lights/fans this will help identify them if anything needs to come off in the future and fro debugging issues.

I used individual earths for each item, combining them into a ring terminal that is bolted to the main earth point.
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The earth for the fuse box was also fed from here. All wiring was covered in plastic split convoluted tubing.

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The wiring for the horns/ rad fan and otter switch were also re-routed up next to the main earth point rather than around the front of the car and down the RHS of the radiator. This meant less wire and now no wires at all going up the drivers side of the engine which makes it much tidier.

Relay box was screwed into place but I need to get one of those right angled drill attachment to drill the holes for attaching the fuse box. Still a bit of tidying to do...

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Luckily everything worked as it should when I completed it, there was a hiccup with one of the terminal on the otter switch but that was easily found and fixed. I did have a problem with one of the old relays too, it was putting out 11v but wouldn't flick the new relays, it confused me for a while but replacing it solved the problem. Not sure how it was outputting 11v though!

in the end of it all it was a lot of work, possible increased the number of points of failure but the lights are superb now and flick quickly from dip to headlight unlike how it used to be. Fans run well and I have no worries about burning out switches or the fuse box. The cost of doing it this way was a bit much really. all those extra bits add up! still I'm happy with the result.

Bit more wiring inside the car too, the Interior light relay failed and replacements seem to be expensive so I used and standard relay, this one is a 5 pin relay from a BMW. I only use 4 pins though. The old relay bracket was bent around it to make it secure. So the light doesn't dim when you close the door it goes straight off.
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I also got the handbrake lights working :) I dont have any brake pad sensors-this thread found the solution..
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Re: Scimitar SE6a Restoration - Head Gasket

Post by JoeySully » Sun Jun 07, 2015 11:09 pm

Wow! cant believe its been over a year since I updated this thread. Been a busy year I guess... Bit of an update on the engine, Since I bought the car I've had lots of coolant issues. I had leaks coming from everywhere, Radiator, hoses, core plugs, water pump you name it it has leaked. I have now what can only describe as a good cooling system, newish rad and silicon hoses and no leaks to be see except after a run I would get a shower of coolant spurting out of the overflow bottle. This was becoming worse and worse of late and I could barely drive for 30 mins before the coolant level dropped and the temperature gauge rose above 90. At Christmas i god myself and Aldi compressor so I could now run a compression test. pressurized the cylinders expecting to see some bubbles coming out of the rad cap but nothing at all so I assumed the problem must be the inlet manifold gasket.
Stripped down the manifold and found the gasket in a right mess.
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I also noticed that one of the inlet bolt holes in the head was damaged and couldn't torque it down fully. It had been repaired previously by using some brass that had stripped its threads. This was also a concern that it could be causing the air getting into the cooling system.

I was hopeful that replacing the inlet gasket would fix the problem but after replacing it the symptoms were exactly the same. After some advice i tried a compression test while the engine was hot. This time I got a steady flow of bubbles when pressurizing cylinder 4. It was odd that I had to hold the pressure on the cylinder for nearly 10 seconds before the bubbles started. Once they startet it was a constant flow of bubbles 10 60psi so obvious gasket leak.

I stripped down the inlet and head gaskets. Luckily only 2 of the exhaust studs broke when taking them off.
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The good news was the heads were fitted with hardened exhaust seats
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I was going to clean them down myself but decided to get them skimmed by the pros. While they were there I asked them to helicoil the bad inlet stud hole in the head. 2 weeks later I went to pick them up but it was immediately obvious that the helicol was inserted at the wrong angle. I'm not sure what they were doing but made an excuse that there was a broken drill bit in the hole and couldn't drill it at the correct angle. I pressed them on a solution and they said that they could drill the inlet manifold to suit. This wasn't going to happen, 2 bodges don't make a right. I asked them to remove the helicoil and id sort it out myself. I go the feeling they just wanted to skim heads and lap valve all day and had no interest in doing jobs like this.

Heads looked good skimmed and cleaned, they fitted one new valve seat and lapped them all.
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To be continued...



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