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TD's Daily Ti thread - SS1 bumper design error?

Post by td99 » Sun Aug 19, 2018 6:35 am

Happened to noticed couple of days ago that the rear lights were really dim, brake lights having no effect when sidelights on. Guessed it was probably an earthing problem. After removing the rear bumper - surprisingly easy - I found that the bunch of earth wires to offside rear chassis were damaged, presumably by a parking incident. Repaired that but still dim /no lights. Looking at the light clusters it was evident that the copper contacts for the bulbs were corroded, as were the bulbs themselves. All cleaned up with the help of wire btush, file and fine sandpaper. Then it all worked OK.
2018-08-18 11.43.23 (Custom).jpg
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2018-08-18 12.12.04 (Custom).jpg
2018-08-18 12.12.04 (Custom).jpg (61.97 KiB) Viewed 2019 times
Putting it all back I found that the rubber seals on the light clusters do not seal against the bumper towards the outside ends: the light unit is deeper than the recess in the bumper mould. This explains why the corrosion was worst on the outer 2 bulb positions. A silly design error in the bumper moulding. I'm sure others have encountered this, question is then what's best way to seal it all up properly?


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Post by td99 » Sun Feb 03, 2019 6:15 pm

APK time (aka MOT) ugh:
1. left lower front wishbone rubbing against chassis
2. Right rear anti roll bar link loose (almost unthreaded!)
3. Rear brake imbalance 1000 vs 1500 (unknown units)

Bit of a shock as car had done just 1500 miles since previous APK.
1. Inspection showed that the very expensive repairs (€5000) by specialist classic car company some years ago not so well done. The chassis mounts for the lower wishbone were still deformed - they had not straightened them to the original profile before fitting new wishbone. That meant excessive pressure/wear on the poly-bushes, which eventually succumbed. I managed to straighten the wishbone mountings by means of two half inch thick iron slabs with a 12 cm hole and tightening them to a maximum of my strength to crush the mountings flat again. To my great delight, that worked!

Wishbone replaced with one from project car, already fitted with new poly-bushes.
WboneMounts2019.jpg
WboneMounts2019.jpg (82.01 KiB) Viewed 1716 times
2019-01-23 17.39.35.jpg
Crushing tool to re-profile wishbone mountings
2019-01-23 17.39.35.jpg (167.5 KiB) Viewed 1716 times

2.Rear anti-roll bar link had unscrewed itself almost completely in last 1500 miles! That after last attention / fitting 8 years or more ago, was fine a year ago at APK time. Easy to tighten up again :-)

3. rear brake imbalance. Now this has some history.
Some years ago I had a recurring problem with left rear brake binding and traced that to jamming handbrake cable. Even the por 15 paint on the back plate was blistered due to the heat of the binding brakes, slave cylinder had to be replaced.
Handbrake cable was revitalised and all seemed okay. However slave cylinder failed shortly afterwards.
I had previously found that I could easily lock my right rear wheel and about a year ago I converted to 20.5 mm slave cylinders in place of the existing 22 mm cylinders.
So now I've replaced the shoes yet again, hoping that maybe it was due to grease or some other sh1t on the previous ones.
Thinking that perhaps the overheating issue could have affected the performance of the drum (drums are in very good condition with no noticeable lip due to brake shoe wear) I swapped them left/right, in which case the next test will show a reversal of the problem.


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Post by scimjim » Sun Feb 03, 2019 6:29 pm

I’d suspect the cable - just put one on my shopping list for C686 after fitting the prop, diff and trailing arms :evil:


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Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
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Post by Roger Pennington » Sun Feb 03, 2019 6:34 pm

Yes, I've had issues with the cable on the LHS where the trailing arm that it's fitted to pushes it up in bump, close to the exhaust.


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Post by td99 » Sun Feb 03, 2019 6:45 pm

Handbrake cable over the exhaust: Yes that was the previous problem that lead to the overheating of the drum...and subsequent replacements. Handbrake cable is free-operating for last 12 months and more. And still today.
Looking at brake shoe wear, I wonder why the one with the handbrake lever is thin and the other one is thick, yet the thin one seems to wear more than the thick one... So why is the thick one so thick? (Please, no obvious answer of driving with handbrake on!)


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Post by scimjim » Sun Feb 03, 2019 7:03 pm

The other problem I’ve had with handbrakes, is the rivet that acts as the hinge for the handbrake arm (on the shoe), seizing. Lots of fluid and exercise frees it off?


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by td99 » Sun Feb 03, 2019 10:10 pm

Yes, handbrake lever often stiff as new, I freed up that rivet/hinge on this and previous occasions, explicitly with a good yank in direction perpendicular to rotation. Then applied a light smear of copper grease. Both new and old (as in removed) are/were freely moving. Hopefully I'll get new test appointment in next few days...


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Post by Alan SS1 » Mon Feb 04, 2019 12:47 pm

td99 wrote:
Sun Feb 03, 2019 6:45 pm
Handbrake cable over the exhaust: Yes that was the previous problem that lead to the overheating of the drum...and subsequent replacements. Handbrake cable is free-operating for last 12 months and more. And still today.
Looking at brake shoe wear, I wonder why the one with the handbrake lever is thin and the other one is thick, yet the thin one seems to wear more than the thick one... So why is the thick one so thick? (Please, no obvious answer of driving with handbrake on!)
I think they are supplied different thicknesses? :?
well I think that's why they 'look worn', no idea why wear in opposite ways.

for over heating cable I added a short section of 1/2" tube to push the cable DOWN from chassis then put a piece of flat bar across the top to still allow it to clamp with the 'P' section


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Post by td99 » Mon Feb 04, 2019 4:10 pm

Good news! - all ok on the brake tester :D In fact rear left gave slightly better response than rear right. Rear right is still first to lock up under savage braking - maybe it's a weight distribution effect.
In reply to Alan, yes as new the shoe with the handbrake lever attached has noticeably thinner material than the other one. But appears to me to wear more!


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Post by Alan SS1 » Mon Feb 04, 2019 7:27 pm

td99 wrote:
Mon Feb 04, 2019 4:10 pm
Good news! - all ok on the brake tester :D In fact rear left gave slightly better response than rear right. Rear right is still first to lock up under savage braking - maybe it's a weight distribution effect.
In reply to Alan, yes as new the shoe with the handbrake lever attached has noticeably thinner material than the other one. But appears to me to wear more!
good stuff
maybe it is to do with the leading/trailing brake effect? leading shoe 'should' do the extra work and so be more prone to wear? :?


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Post by td99 » Wed Feb 13, 2019 7:57 pm

Okay, next step after new wishbone: wheel alignment.
I went to the local specialist today and he checked it out. Left side was 1° out on camber which was corrected by reversing the upper ball joint mountings, now as far out-board as possible (the right side is as far in-board as possible). So it would seem that the new wishbone is fractionally longer than the originals. This is an early Grazzimetal version (dating from around 2007 with bush mountings like originals, thus accepting Superflex SS bush inserts, rather than later ones available 2012-ish which will not accept the SS inserts.
All now within spec.

Now since this car hasn't really ben driven properly for a while, just short shopping trips, I took it 30 km up and 30 km down motorway with good application of right foot whenever possible.
Afterwards it drives so much better! And so much quieter! :D


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Post by td99 » Fri Mar 08, 2019 6:13 pm

I bought a pair of Alcantara Ti seats from RR, of course the passenger seat was the best. It quickly became apparent that swapping the covers between the seats was one hell of a job. So I thought I'd try to see how the passenger seat would fit in the driver's position. This means that the seat reclining lever is squeezed between the tunnel and the seat, but still accessible. Once the seat position is right that lever doesn't get used very often. It is still accessible and usable.
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2019-03-08 18.35.23.jpg
New seat
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2019-03-08 16.50.48.jpg
Old seat
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Post by td99 » Wed May 01, 2019 9:28 pm

Fitted new 4x Dunlop Blusport 195x15 tires in place of the 10 yr old Toyos on the 15 x 6.5 in OZ Ultralights when removing winter wheels/tires (original 14 x 5.5)
2019-05-01 22.09.05.jpg
2019-05-01 22.09.05.jpg (125.3 KiB) Viewed 865 times
).
Chose the Dunlops as they have same wet grip performance as the popular Rainsports but lower acoustic noise. Also think that the tread pattern may give lower steering effort, but that's just a guess.
My priority was wet grip as that is where the problems occur.
Thet feel great so far...


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Post by reliant-reviver » Thu May 02, 2019 4:09 pm

Should be like day and night I would think. T1R tyres were in my experience abysmal in the wet.


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Post by efi_sprintgte » Thu May 02, 2019 9:50 pm

reliant-reviver wrote:
Thu May 02, 2019 4:09 pm
Should be like day and night I would think. T1R tyres were in my experience abysmal in the wet.
I will second that.


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