SE6a USM 99T

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Tinker man
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SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Fri May 04, 2018 5:01 pm

You will never guess.

Twin stainless cherry bomb attached to cologne V6. Attached to standard gearbox.

Goes very nicely...... just don’t rag it and it’s a lot of fun. :D


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

Tinker man
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SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Sat May 05, 2018 3:44 pm

Hi gents, Not sure if I should post here on a technical thread, but here goes.

Taken car for a run and fine until it’s warmed up. When hot she doesn’t want to tick over, runs lumpy at low revs and doesn’t want to pick up from idle, bearing in mind auto this is an issue and in fact car stalls. I can get her to rev again when stationary and had to “dump” in the gearbox to get home. Sweaty all round. Got back home and the coil is really hot. Swapped my new lumenition blue coil for original one and problem the same. It’s not drivable and live in constant fear of a breakdown.

My coil has only 4 wires attached. One from ballast to the negative terminal, and a wire joined here to the starter. 2 on the positive side of the coil. One to tach and one to distributor. Is this right? Can the ballast be the wrong way round or does it not matter? Does the coil get very hot anyway and this is a red herring? Or are these on wrong terminals. Electric are a mystery to me. I assume it wouldn’t run at all if they were on the wrong terminals?

Does anyone have any good ideas or a process of elimination to follow? I am assuming electrics but maybe fuel? :roll:

All ideas more than welcome as usual

Thanks Ian,


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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philhoward
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SE6a USM 99T

Post by philhoward » Sat May 05, 2018 4:16 pm

If it picks up when you get some revs on it, then it’s fuel/air related. I do wonder if the mixture has been over-richened to cope with the lack of choke?

If it’s an air leak, the get some carb cleaner and use it a leak tester - the revs will change if it temporarily finds the leak point. Favourite is around the base of the carb, be it the carb base having been over-tightened in the past (bowing it), or the spacer underneath having a crack which opens up when hot (had that one myself).

There are probably several other possibilities (weak fuel pump, cracked servo hose, leak on the auto-box vacuum connection, etc).


Phil Howard
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Tinker man
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SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Sat May 05, 2018 5:32 pm

Thank you Phil. Don’t kno w what I would do without you😀

I will go round those as you suggest. One thing for certain it is getting worse. At least it’s not due to me wiring things up wrong then.

Dare not use it now. Hopefully will be something simple.

By the way whilst thinking about what this could be, I thought about the timing. Looking at the distributor clamp bolt will a socket go past the vac advance diaphragm? Or do I need a crows foot spanner?

Not important at this stage just wondered... as it looks tight.

Thanks, ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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philhoward
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Post by philhoward » Sat May 05, 2018 5:44 pm

Trick is to use a 1/4” drive socket and extension - or a wobble bar/UJ with 3/8”.


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
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Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

rebel alliance
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SE6a USM 99T

Post by rebel alliance » Sat May 05, 2018 8:27 pm

You have the coil wired the wrong way round...wire from distributor goes on the negative side,and from ballast/starter goes on the positive side



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philhoward
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Post by philhoward » Sat May 05, 2018 8:30 pm

rebel alliance wrote:
Sat May 05, 2018 8:27 pm
You have the coil wired the wrong way round...wire from distributor goes on the negative side
Well spotted - I missed that :oops: Starter/ballast wire to +ve; tacho and dizzy on the -ve


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
SS1 Racer
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

Tinker man
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SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Sat May 05, 2018 8:57 pm

What I like about this forum is the free will of people helping out. What I don’t like is the fact that I make myself look so stupid to so many.

Thanks very much guys. I. Will have another go tomorrow. I am sure that’s going to make a difference.... cheers Rebel. And Phil I will check the hoses and base gasket area too. I did find that the fuel line had been tie wrapped out of the way, but constricting the pipe in the process. So that won’t be helping.

Every day is a school day.

Ian


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

Tinker man
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SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Sun May 06, 2018 12:31 pm

Some news. Wiring swapped over and she starts ok. But still hesitant when accelerator pressed until she has picked up a few revs. So spray some carb cleaner round base. Engine picks up couple of hundred revs when prolonged spray at the back. Gave nuts a little tweak ( :shock: ) but to no avail. So will remove carb and check gaskets. Can I use small amount of sealer on there or is that a no no and new gaskets required. Looks like part of the problem at least.

Thanks for the pointers, ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

Tinker man
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SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Sun May 06, 2018 12:51 pm

Also, if I may ask yet another possibly stupid question...

On removal of carb I notice that when I pull the throttle linkage only fuel is spraying into the right hand choke as I look from the front of the car. These carbs are supposed to fuel together aren’t they? Not primary and secondary. So I think jets and stuff also need a clean. Another part of the mystery unless I have it wrong?

Thanks yet again. Ian


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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philhoward
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Post by philhoward » Sun May 06, 2018 1:11 pm

You are right - it should squirt down both barrels equally. A carb rebuild could be ok the cards..but it sounds like there’s an air leak which could be the rubber hose going to the pigtail for the autobox.

When you pull the carb, check the base for flatness. If it’s bowed a tiny amount you might get away with sanding it on a flat surface to get it true again. If it’s more than a couple of thou, then could well be new carb time :(


Phil Howard
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SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
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Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
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Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

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philhoward
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Post by philhoward » Sun May 06, 2018 1:12 pm

Oh - and no sealant should be needed on the gaskets.


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
SS1 Racer
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

Tinker man
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Posts: 450
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Sun May 06, 2018 3:34 pm

Thanks.

So blocked jet cloned and float bowl. Now squirting both sides. Cleaned all other jets and blown air line through. Put back together. No air leak now when spray with cleaner. Pig tail is fine.

Runs lots better and donee a 5 mike run and it behaved. Will get braver tomorrow and go bit further and hope all remains well. I think will treat to a new carb though anyway as it’s had better days. Also the no choke set up is a right pain in the morning when I had to move it to get another car off the drive. Hard to slip a clutch when it’s an auto....

Will try not to post again now for a while. Enjoy the bank holiday, ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

Tinker man
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Posts: 450
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Sat May 12, 2018 5:50 pm

Small update for the record.

New carb fitted, new gaskets etc too of course. This carb has a choke fitted too. :lol:

New points and condenser fitted. Fuel filter put in line over rear axle. Timed again.
Gearbox fluid checked. Very clean. So left alone.

Fuel added and out for a run. Glad to report all is good!

Next jobs? Fuel filler neck smelly in car so probably a seal gone. Drivers side window goes down but needs help going up. Cassette player replacement. Speedo needs sorting, as it bounces all over. Rear hatch needs catch fixing. Amongst others... :D

Drives nicely and I am having some fun. It also sounds great.... happy days.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

Tinker man
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Posts: 450
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Thu May 31, 2018 7:42 am

hi all, small update.

i am enjoying driving the car and it seems to be settling down a bit, but whilst some things are getting fixed others seem to appear. such is life with old cars.

rear hatch catch now works fine. clean and adjustment did the trick.

car overheats and i really need another radiator or this one re-cored as there was a pin prick hole or two, now sealed with radweld to get me through, but the flow isnt great i dont think based on hands on the rad high tech technique. having said that it only gets warm in stationary traffic and that situation improved dramatically after following the "how to" of Rogers with regard to setting water levels in the cooling system. thanks Roger.

drivers window is improving with use.

i now have a working cassette radio, so i can chose to listen to the exhausts or period big hair rock in true 70/80 style. i had forgotten pretty much all about tapes. i kept my vinyl but binned the tapes... never going to want them again am i??? :roll: so that is a tick, but now the clock stopped working. must have caught something.... getting the old unit out and putting the new one in made me glad for me relatively small hands.
radio cassette.jpg
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other small victories include removal of paint overspray from various engine components (MEK marvelous stuff)

on the list for this week....... car onto ramps and axle stands to get underneath. few jobs to do. small oil leak from somewhere (auto box related) and its dripping the odd drop on the drive... and that just wont do apparently. reversing lights still need sorting, so will look at the switch and connections whilst under there. speedo cable needs changing, speedo stopped altogether now. is it best to pull through the new one attached to the old one into the cabin, or from the cabin to the gearbox? any advice welcome.

whilst there may as well change the box filter and fluids (of course).

battery isolator switch to be fitted. my car is in an integral garage and i have a probably unfounded fear of fire. any thoughts on where to put it? and whether to put it on the live or negative side of the battery?

thats it for now.

gratuitous picture below of the Scim out with the owner of my old MGB that i spent a few years doing up. Chippy Tea at Prees Heath. lovely.
run out.jpg
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cheers, Ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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