SE6A rolling resto - much AGRo

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Post by willholderogri » Mon Mar 12, 2018 12:21 pm

it would be possible to connect both lambda sensors if you series them with a diode.


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Post by philhoward » Mon Mar 12, 2018 12:50 pm

How's that going to work?

A Lambda sensor generally generates a small voltage which is about the forward voltage of a diode - but even so, isn't the general idea to see what each bank is doing?


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Post by AJL Electronics » Mon Mar 12, 2018 1:27 pm

A flip-flop driving a small changeover relay would be a good compromise.


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Post by Diyhell » Mon Mar 12, 2018 10:11 pm

Roger Pennington, you are correct (and someone else pointed out the same my other related post). My dad was a materials expert in the aeronautical world - he'd be shaking his head in despair if he read this...!

It's a particularly hard grade of aluminium and came up fine (not scratched/dulled at all) when I used some Cif cream cleaner on it. The deeper marks/scores will remain as patina.


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Post by Roger Pennington » Mon Mar 12, 2018 11:59 pm

Diyhell wrote:
Mon Mar 12, 2018 10:11 pm
It's a particularly hard grade of aluminium and came up fine (not scratched/dulled at all) when I used some Cif cream cleaner on it
That's an interesting alternative, especially if it cleaned it without wholesale removal of the anodising. Worth filing away in the memory banks! :)


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Post by willholderogri » Tue Mar 13, 2018 7:49 am

philhoward wrote:
Mon Mar 12, 2018 12:50 pm
How's that going to work?

A Lambda sensor generally generates a small voltage which is about the forward voltage of a diode - but even so, isn't the general idea to see what each bank is doing?
it would give you the overall live running of the engine I find mine is very useful for switching between gas & petrol you can visually see when the petrol; is running out as the vfr gauge drops quickly


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Post by willholderogri » Tue Mar 13, 2018 7:54 am

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Simoni-Racin ... 0753.m4841

sorry meant afr guage mine is similar to the above


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Post by Diyhell » Mon Mar 19, 2018 7:09 pm

OK, bit of tidying up of the front been going on
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Some polishing prior to swapping out the front silver bit (!) which has the wrong - silver - letters on it for one in slightly better condition with the correct letters.
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Silver letters had been secured with the nylon inserts used to attach them directly to the rear. Handy as I now have a supply...

Bit of respray required for the 'new' black letters in Halfords Mat Black - which isn't actually mat, more like soft sheen. Put a sheet over the the aluminium bit, pushed the letters through and they stand up properly.
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Then just a case of using new 3mm Starlock push on fasteners, with a bit of grease, to secure them onto the aluminium from the rear. Bizarrely, they came from a 'build a bear' supplier on Ebay...
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I found a 5mm socket in an extension bar was perfect for me to tap them on with a rubber mallet. I'll use some spray on anti-rust wax to preserve the rear so they don't rust like the old ones did.
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Will post a pic of the revised front when I've fixed the other bits. I knew I'd end up returning to fibreglass (I had a Berkeley T60), given the body composition, but to fix random trim??? Centre console (again).
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Headlamp surround and 'grill' where the holes had pulled through.
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SE6a needing lots of work...

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Post by Diyhell » Wed May 30, 2018 8:16 pm

Sometimes it's the little things....
The driver's door lock button looked like it'd been chewed by a dog at some point. Turns out it's a TR7 /dolomite item and NOS is still available. One thing down..
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SE6a needing lots of work...

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Post by gtcse8 » Wed May 30, 2018 10:27 pm

Well done on sourcing the parts Richard.

I must really get round to advertising the parts I have still in stock.

Starlock washers at 5p each and Door lock buttons at 50p each :roll:
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Post by Diyhell » Thu May 31, 2018 8:20 pm

You really must Mark...I seem to remember highlighting that before 😀
http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/view ... k&start=45


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Post by Diyhell » Sun Mar 03, 2019 12:37 pm

Time for an update.

Alternator replaced by high capacity version: http://scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/viewtopi ... 82#p458282

Rumbled alarmingly when I first started it up – I thought the bearings were shot – but it settled down and now just whines like a supercharger… It has fixed all the problems with the battery not having enough juice to start.

Then starter failed to turn: http://scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/viewtopi ... 14#p458514
The sub-loom that runs to the starter is cooked, brittle and partially replaced. It’s one that needs done properly some point. Not sure whether you can get a new multi-plug to attach it near the coil/windscreen wiper motor though? I searched for a while online but no joy.

Then a problem of my own making. http://scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/viewtopi ... 63#p459663
When the ballast resistor had failed a while back, the new one had a different (unshielded) connection. I bunged it in with the ‘must sort that’ attitude but never did. Turns out the bare terminal was rubbing against something and earthing… Plenty of insulation tape later, problem solved.

None of this had reduced my anxiety about the continuing presence of a fibre timing wheel. In fact, this was only heightened when the throttle jammed open when I was starting it one time and it span far too fast too quickly. I’d bought a new (alloy) gear from GW a while back and had a gasket kit. (Thoughts on fitting an alloy main gear only - retaining existing small one - welcomed) One day, in a fit of enthusiasm, I decided to pull off the front cover and replace it. What could go wrong?
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http://scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/viewtopi ... 82#p466382
Not really ‘wrong’ but an oddity.

Anyway, I carried on, cleaned off the timing cover, removed old fibre gear, realised I didn’t have a roll pin for the new gear to link to the fuel pump lobe. That delayed play a little.

Then I realised that I hadn’t sorted an almighty blow from the exhaust manifold (no.3) and when I’d last tried it hadn’t wanted to shift (well one bolt in particular). So I soaked it all in releasing fluid – a lot.
Then I returned to it and for a while the said bolt screeched like it was moving. Then promptly sheered off. Hmmm. Being no.3, there was no way to get to it. Head off then.
broken bolt (2).jpg
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Did that and realised it looks like the head gasket has been blowing. I thought as much as there was always a loss of fluid and what seemed to be an over pressuring of the coolant system. Checked the head and it is of course slightly bowed and needs a skim. Before I bought it the seller replaced that head gasket and didn’t skim the head. Lesson to us all there…
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With the head off, I thought I must just see how worn the cylinders are. Good news is that there is not much, the rim around the top of each being combustion crud rather than wear.
The bad news is that, as I always suspected, the rings on no. 2 are leaking. I’d pressure tested dry and then with a dollop of oil and this had suggested stuck or broken rings. Advice was to run it and see if they freed up. Which they haven’t – penetrating fluid sat nicely in the adjoining cylinders but drained alarmingly quickly on cylinder 2.

So, I now have an engine in pieces having just attempted to get the thing safe to run.

Verdict is that I should give in and swap in a spare engine which is believed to be good. Sounds a lot of faff but it makes sense as I could deal with some other issues at the same time (mounts, clutch slave cylinder, etc.).
Off to ebay I go to buy a hoist. Good advice below but any further suggestions on hoists or the engine welcomed…
http://scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/viewtopi ... st#p252379


SE6a needing lots of work...

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