SS1 Racer - C686CCR

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

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philhoward
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Post by philhoward » Sun May 03, 2020 5:13 pm

Weld, weld, run out of wire, find more wire, weld more, grind away some of the mess, lick of paint.

Job done.
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Phil Howard
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SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
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Post by scimjim » Sun May 03, 2020 7:37 pm

How thick is that metal U section? From the photo it looks like it could do with some triangulation support?


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Current: SE5 (8Ball), 1400 1600 1800 Zetec ST170 powered SS1 (G97), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre, TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR).
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philhoward
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Post by philhoward » Sun May 03, 2020 8:22 pm

The new mounting for the damper is 2mm wall box section with the top chopped out after welding; the “third leg” is only 0.9mm (based on bracketry you can buy from Screwfix/toolstation etc) but could be boxed in/turned into a triangle if needed. Not much different from what was used on the factory ones - even that varied between sides (one was an SS1 one, the other was a Sabre one). Better on places, no worse in others.

I’d have used DIN rail like Steve Crosby did but the only stuff I have in stock is 0.8mm thick and slotted - so took another route.


Phil Howard
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SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
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Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
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stevecrosby63
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SS1-C686CCR

Post by stevecrosby63 » Sun May 03, 2020 9:06 pm

if i was to do anything like this, and probably will at some point, i would humbly suggest you either cut off the reliant bracketery and move the whole lot where you need it or chop it off and make your own. the bending moments on that new bracket will be horrendous and it will just wilt. if you have a spare pair of wishbones then sacrificing them would be the easier/ safer option :shock:


i'm making this up as i go along :shock:

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Post by philhoward » Sun May 03, 2020 9:15 pm

Those were my spare pair of wishbones..

This is “mockup plus” stage - modelling then on the Batmobile wishbones (but not as extreme) which keep the original Reliant tab and sleeved the original location. Extra bracing to be added yet but need to check for clearance before just adding metal.
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Phil Howard
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SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
SS1 Racer
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
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Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

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Post by CNHSS1 » Sun May 03, 2020 9:55 pm

Yep, will work once the material is added, but will fall orf if not :lol:


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Post by CNHSS1 » Sun May 03, 2020 9:56 pm

It wasn't an elegant solution on Batmobile, but missed the turbo etc and worked


Racing is life, everything before and after, is just waiting--Steve McQueen
6 time Class Champ, 2006 & 2014 SSSC Champion

RIP Batmobile, await the Rise of Dark Knight 8)
Sabre 'Light Sabre' 360hp!!
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philhoward
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Post by philhoward » Mon May 04, 2020 9:16 am

Let’s see if I can find some metal today....


Phil Howard
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SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
SS1 Racer
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
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Post by philhoward » Sun May 10, 2020 6:11 pm

Taken a diversion - still on the “to do” list :lol:

Had a serious go at the 3D jigsaw puzzle that is the boost piping and the chargecooler. I’ve been having a play with an Arduino for the bypass valve control (read boost controller) and I’ve got something rough and ready that should work - basically the more throttle you give it, the less bypass there is. Might turn out to be a bit “all or nothing” but it’s something I can tweak.

Had a guess last week at what bits I’d need, placed an order, waited for it to all arrive and sods law says I’ve bought 2 of things I only need one of and none of what I actually need! Shopping again..
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Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
SS1 Racer
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

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Post by philhoward » Sun May 17, 2020 5:31 pm

At the other end this weekend.
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Phil Howard
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SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
SS1 Racer
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

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philhoward
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Post by philhoward » Sun May 17, 2020 9:14 pm

Before anyone asks, yes - that is a fluro-lined silicone hose elbow. Also not quite visible is the fixing tying the filler neck to the armature so it is downhill from the cap all the way to the tank. Yes, I’ll need to open the boot to fill the tank but shouldn’t need to carry a funnel - the standard filler spout on a Jerry can seems fine.


Phil Howard
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SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
SS1 Racer
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

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Post by philhoward » Sun May 31, 2020 6:05 pm

Fuel system buttoned up. Swirl pot added so keeping the LP pump. HP pump and filter slung underneath. Boot tub trimmed - just needs a new front now otherwise it’ll act as an air brake..
686boot.jpeg
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Also after much playing around, I’ve gone for the base mount seat in the end - side mount was a pain to be honest as it lifts it too much when trying to retain the fore/aft adjustment. Also realigned it (because the gap between fixings doesn’t match between this seat and an SS1) so it’s actually in line with the steering wheel.
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Working logically now (rear to front), so finalise gearbox mounting next.


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
SS1 Racer
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

efi_sprintgte
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Post by efi_sprintgte » Sun May 31, 2020 6:29 pm

Nice one 8)


JC

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Post by philhoward » Sun May 31, 2020 6:57 pm

Supercharger ramblings again - please feel to chip in (I’m counting on it :mrgreen: ).

I’ve been playing with an Arduino to control the bypass valve on this supercharger which seems to be the logical thing to do - as far as I can see it’s the direct equivalent to the wastegate in a turbo - but without any lag (almost) or need to be at full throttle to start to get boost. Given the chance, I can get positive manifold pressure at 1000rpm if I want.

As such I can pretty much do what I want with this - turn it on at will (rpm/throttle position etc) or gradually; even mapped within reason.

Currently I’m aiming for a linear (I hope) approach; 50% throttle = 50% bypass and 100% throttle is no bypass. All this will only happen over 2000rpm. All this is changeable, don’t forget.

I’ve only got about 7psi (currently) to play with - am
I being too careful? The MX5 guys seem to just go with an echo of the MINI system and pre-throttle the supercharger. Only account I have of anyone using the same unit as me (Merc C180) bought the car already converted and it just goes 100% at 2500rpm, in a VTEC sort of way - all or nothing.

Thoughts? I know it’s not exactly a direct correlation with turbos but those of you with mapped boost I’m hoping might give me insight into the good and bad of boost control.


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
SS1 Racer
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

efi_sprintgte
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Post by efi_sprintgte » Sun May 31, 2020 7:06 pm

Appreciate mapping boost theory, but with such a conservative peak boost I would almost say your over thinking it.

I would give it as much boost as possible low down to get max low down torque, only backing off the boost low down if it ran close to detonation or it got to the con rod escaping danger zone.


JC

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