My midlife GTC

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

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efi_sprintgte
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My midlife GTC

Post by efi_sprintgte » Sun Dec 09, 2018 7:43 pm

No brake fluid should be in the servo.

When I bought my 6a it had a new master cylinder and callipers fitted. The servo was full of old brake fluid, presumably the PO couldn’t get the brakes working so kept changing parts.

Is it possible the cars had a MC change and the fluids been in the servo ever since?


JC

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guybetts
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Post by guybetts » Sun Dec 09, 2018 9:11 pm

efi_sprintgte wrote:
Sun Dec 09, 2018 7:43 pm
Is it possible the cars had a MC change and the fluids been in the servo ever since?
That is possible, though it would have been quite a while ago. I'm just surprised there was no tell-tail signs, like white smoke, but then if the non-return vacuum valve is working, there probably shouldn't be.


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guybetts
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My midlife GTC

Post by guybetts » Mon Jan 28, 2019 6:36 pm

Progress: Not really :?

Prompted by 'the Golden Coupe' thread, I too seem to be going backwards, rather than forwards (keep at it Roy, it WILL come good :D )

With the brakes still in pieces, but most parts replaced or refurbished, and ready to refit, I have done a little cleaning up. I knew the front nose cone support looked a bit rusty, but on removing the splash guards discovered holes :roll: I shouldn't have removed them, but as I also need to replace the ARB links, bushes and repaint the bar, I thought it would make it easier to access. So the snowball keeps rolling. Bumper had to come off... what a pig if a job - well getting at the rusted bolts anyway :x
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Bumpers off now, so good access to the nose support bracket. It's repairable, but I think it's easier if I can get it off without too much more dismantling. Other things I've now found to do include heater blowers, repair damage to bumper and now I can get to quite a bit of it, paint the chassis. In the meantime, the drivers door lock has jammed - so another thing to sidetrack me :evil:


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guybetts
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My midlife GTC

Post by guybetts » Fri Apr 05, 2019 8:24 pm

Been slowly sorting out a lot of little jobs for the grand "put it all back together" which should start this weekend.

Latest job rebuilding the blower motors.
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All cleaned up and ready for reassembly with new fixings, cowling and grille
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Reassembled with just terminals to clean up ready to fit
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Guy


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gtcse8
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My midlife GTC

Post by gtcse8 » Fri Apr 05, 2019 8:28 pm

I see Ashley Hinton are drinking Coffee this week rather than plain water. :lol: :wink:


Mark Wilson. Garage sale everything must go. :cry:1 SE6b, 1 GTC Shell &1 SE6a shell & a Triumph Daytona. Also on YouTube :wink: lookup V8 Chevy https://youtu.be/lbpvDGAMY6g https://youtu.be/7xTrbr0ETSA https://youtu.be/K7HfYVd5Flo

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guybetts
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Post by guybetts » Fri Apr 05, 2019 8:38 pm

gtcse8 wrote:
Fri Apr 05, 2019 8:28 pm
I see Ashley Hinton are drinking Coffee this week rather than plain water. :lol: :wink:
Black coffee. I only got the cowling and grille from them. Other bits from various sources including NEC a couple of weeks ago :D

Speaking of grille Mark, any update on the front mesh grille I pm'd about :)

Guy


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gtcse8
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My midlife GTC

Post by gtcse8 » Fri Apr 05, 2019 8:43 pm

Sorry Guy had forgotten, been busy making parts for Will`s MB and HRH Ex Hire car.
Mark


Mark Wilson. Garage sale everything must go. :cry:1 SE6b, 1 GTC Shell &1 SE6a shell & a Triumph Daytona. Also on YouTube :wink: lookup V8 Chevy https://youtu.be/lbpvDGAMY6g https://youtu.be/7xTrbr0ETSA https://youtu.be/K7HfYVd5Flo

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guybetts
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Post by guybetts » Sat Apr 06, 2019 7:06 pm

Progress with reassembly today.
Nose support section went back in with little trouble - wasn't sure if it might need to be a two-man job.
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Repaired nose support
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Upper crosstube, suspension top brackets and radiator bracket
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ARB
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ARB isn't bent, just photo distortion :?
Also re-fitted transmission oil cooler and horns. Need to sort out a bit of the wiring before fan and radiator can go back in.
Guy


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scimjim
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My midlife GTC

Post by scimjim » Sat Apr 06, 2019 7:25 pm

Is the nose support new or reconditioned?


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), 1400 1600 1800 Zetec ST170 powered SS1 (G97), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre, TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR).
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Old and Slow
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Post by Old and Slow » Sat Apr 06, 2019 8:51 pm

Hi Guy,
Making progress at last, I see.
Well done. I'm sure you'll get there in the end.


Philip Needham
Ashley-bodied TR3; '54 Ford Consul; '55 AC 2-Litre Saloon;'65 850 Mini; '70 Ford Zodiac MkIV; XR3i
'81 911SC Targa, '64 Sabre Six

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guybetts
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Post by guybetts » Sat Apr 06, 2019 11:59 pm

scimjim wrote:
Sat Apr 06, 2019 7:25 pm
Is the nose support new or reconditioned?
Reconditioned. A neighbour runs a business restoring air cooled VW's, so is a seasoned welder :D
Old and Slow wrote:
Sat Apr 06, 2019 8:51 pm
Hi Guy,
Making progress at last, I see.
Well done. I'm sure you'll get there in the end.
Only got just under 3 weeks if I'm going to make it for Berks noggin Drive It Day :shock:


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guybetts
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My midlife GTC

Post by guybetts » Mon May 11, 2020 7:53 pm

Not added anything here for a while, but thought it might be worth adding something on the trials and tribulations relating to the removal of the bottom pulley on a Cologne with auto box.

Since the water pump needs replacing, and since I don't really know the condition of the engine, and also being aware that John Unwin had a camshaft gear failure, I thought it prudent to do the timing gear as well. This has been long in the planning, and the Covid 19 lockdown has both extended the lack of use along with the time for me to get the job done.

Anyway, I began with soaking the front cover bolts in readiness for removal. That was also a little while ago. Removing all the ancillaries, radiator etc., to give as much space to work in as possible (the front bracket on the power steering pump can be removed, with the rear bracket still holding it in place). I began with removing two bolts on the bottom pulley, and removing the main bolt into the crank. This requires removing the starter motor to be able to lock the starter ring stopping the crank rotating as you undo the bolt. Tricky with no additional help, but managed it :shock:

Replacing the bolt loosely, I then used a thick steel bar between the two removed pulley bolts across the crank bolt, and then winding both bolts in against the head of the crank bolt. As the picture below shows, this resulted in bending the bar.
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Abandoning this approach, I now needed to get a three legged puller on the end. This requires more space, which required moving the power steering rack, that also means undoing the column. Once more space was available, I could get the puller on. I first tried using it to apply more pressure over the bar, but as this also did nothing, I removed it, wound the crank bolt in - but not all the way - and using a short length of steel bar, applied the puller straight on the bolt.
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The puller legs are pulling on the back of the inner pulley, and not really able to hold much purchase on it. Eventually I gave up, as it simply wasn't doing anything.

Time to rethink, and this time dismantle the pulley in situ. Firstly, undo the other two bolts, and then remove the outer pulley. This needed a bit of persuasion with a bar and hammer, which worked. It's surprising how heavy the outer pulley is! Then using the 3 legged puller, I could get the inner pulley off. This is located by a pin which is in the hub on the crank shaft.
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From the picture above, it's clear the centre raised part is shown on the parts diagram as a separate part - a spacer. This should come off, but boy is it reluctant to move. I soaked it inside and out in plus gas, and reverted to finding the right tool to get this off.

The appropriate tool is a Harmonic Balancer removal tool, so one was duly ordered. This uses the bolt holes on the hub to fix a thick plate on the moving part, and a central bolt to push against the fixed central part - in this case, the end of the crank shaft.

In order to use the harmonic balancer removal tool, firstly I need to get the spacer off - simply, the tools central bolt won't fit down the hole in the spacer! I used a length of bar, turned down on the lathe for the last 20mm to just fit inside the spacer hole, and then with some gentle persuasion, using a hammer, began to start the spacer pivoting. Still with plenty of plus gas from inside the cavity behind the spacer, this quickly helped ease the spacer off. At last 8)

Now with the spacer off, I could get the harmonic balancer removal tool on. Another easier said than done :roll: Because of the bolts available, and the limited thread depth in the hub, I had to use spacers. After first attempt, I then used some pretty thick washers combined with some spacers.
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Finally, using one arm to lock the starter ring and the other on the large spanner on the tool, I felt it 'break' the 40 years of lock, and then easily start sliding off the crank shaft. At last... :D
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I'd like to think it's going to be easier from here, but that's next weekends work.

Guy


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guybetts
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My midlife GTC

Post by guybetts » Sat May 16, 2020 8:58 pm

A bit more progress. The timing cover off and finally confirm my suspicion that the engine still had the original timing gear. Replacement Alloy gear will be going on.
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And now to the long awaited water pump. Looks quite clean, though curious as to the crusty bit on the top side of the thermostat. This might have been fouling the operation :?
The pump spindle is very tight, so prognosis: scrap
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Also a bit of play time with my new toy :)
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I need to hone my blasting skills


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scimjim
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My midlife GTC

Post by scimjim » Sat May 16, 2020 10:34 pm

My brand new pump spindle is quite tight too.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), 1400 1600 1800 Zetec ST170 powered SS1 (G97), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre, TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR).
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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guybetts
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My midlife GTC

Post by guybetts » Sat May 16, 2020 11:32 pm

scimjim wrote:
Sat May 16, 2020 10:34 pm
My brand new pump spindle is quite tight too.
Probably better to describe it as tight with definite tighter spots as you hand rotate. You can feel it's not right.

My brand new one is much better.

Incidentally, i also have a cast steel (rather than alloy) water pump from a spares engine I acquired. It was from a SE6b. Would this have been original fitment? It's actually in very good condition, and spins freely - I'm almost minded to use it instead - seems much better quality :shock:


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Previous: SS1 1300 (C230 EPP) & 18ti (D993 WRX)

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