My midlife GTC

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

Moderators: scimjim, Roger Pennington, philhoward, Lukeyboy46, erikscimitardemon

User avatar
Old and Slow
RSSOC Member
Posts: 1686
Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2015 5:37 pm
Location: East Berks

Re: My midlife GTC

Post by Old and Slow » Sun Nov 06, 2016 3:58 pm

Sounds like a method of blanking off the vacuum A-R to me, Guy. I think this is often done when the engine has been "tuned"; or is your breakerless ignition separately mapped?
IMO you'll need to check the current maximum advance using a strobe, if the bob-weights (or mapping) push the advance close to 35 degrees (2500rpm +), then re-connecting the vacuum will add at least 10 degrees, causing pinking etc.
If it ran OK today then the timing can't be far off; as I understand it, timing errors often cause higher temperatures (but I stand to be corrected); it was a bit cold today so you might not notice any over-heating.
Hope this helps,
Philip


Philip Needham
Ashley-bodied TR3; '54 Ford Consul; '55 AC 2-Litre Saloon;'65 850 Mini; '70 Ford Zodiac MkIV; XR3i
'81 911SC Targa, '64 Sabre Six

User avatar
guybetts
RSSOC Member
Posts: 490
Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2009 1:04 pm
Location: Berkshire

Re: My midlife GTC

Post by guybetts » Sun Dec 11, 2016 6:58 pm

Things are progressing... slowly. Work keeps getting in the way :evil:

Anyway, last weekend - nothing! Turned the key, and nothing. Checked battery, which was okay. Other electrical circuits working fine. Checked starter motor, and again no loose connections. Suspected starter relay or auto inhibit switch. Abandoned attempts to progress any further, as Christmas dinners beckoned. On Monday I ordered a new starter relay from GW, which arrived Wednesday, so not fixed in time for noggin. With work getting in the way again, I left it till today to try and sort the problem. Before I started swapping bits out, I thought I'd just try the ignition again - and she turned over :lol: . After a few further attempts she fired up.

There must be a moral to this, but Reliant electrics strike again :roll:

Still, I've a spare relay just in case.


GTC Registrar

1966 Straight Six Coupe, 1981 GTC
Previous: SS1 1300 (C230 EPP) & 18ti (D993 WRX)

User avatar
scimjim
RSSOC Member
Posts: 40772
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:08 pm
Location: Gloucester

Re: My midlife GTC

Post by scimjim » Sun Dec 11, 2016 8:42 pm

If it was the inhibit switch or starter relay, I think the ignition light etc would come on - it just breaks the White/red circuit to the starter.

So it sounds more like the ignition switch to me?


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), 1400 1600 1800 Zetec ST170 powered SS1 (G97), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre, TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR).
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

User avatar
guybetts
RSSOC Member
Posts: 490
Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2009 1:04 pm
Location: Berkshire

Re: My midlife GTC

Post by guybetts » Sun Dec 11, 2016 10:19 pm

Ignition light did come on. Nothing from starter motor though, which is why I suspected inhibit switch or starter relay. I'm not discounting ignition switch, knowing it is a common failure, but Shaun had already refurbished it prior to my acquisition a couple of months ago.


GTC Registrar

1966 Straight Six Coupe, 1981 GTC
Previous: SS1 1300 (C230 EPP) & 18ti (D993 WRX)

User avatar
scimjim
RSSOC Member
Posts: 40772
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:08 pm
Location: Gloucester

Re: My midlife GTC

Post by scimjim » Sun Dec 11, 2016 10:23 pm

Ah - okay. "Turned the key and nothing" can mean different things to different people :-)


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), 1400 1600 1800 Zetec ST170 powered SS1 (G97), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre, TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR).
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

User avatar
AJL Electronics
RSSOC Member
Posts: 8368
Joined: Fri Oct 17, 2008 8:49 pm
Location: Gloucester
Contact:

Re: My midlife GTC

Post by AJL Electronics » Mon Dec 12, 2016 8:25 am

Ignition switch is well known for that problem. Prove it by hotwiring next time it happens.


Yes, we can mend your Scimitar!
Order your Scimitar parts any hour of the day at http://www.classicmicrocars.com (member's discounts).

Fancy a holiday in Gael, France? http://www.ianrhu.com

There is no point trying to teach a pig to sing. It doesn't work and it annoys the pig.

User avatar
petermisy
RIP
Posts: 473
Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2012 4:21 pm

Re: My midlife GTC

Post by petermisy » Mon Dec 12, 2016 10:16 am

I have had this happen, turned out to be the ignition switch multi plug connector behind the dash. Needed cleaning.

Peter


GTC Prototype XJW 247T
GTC No. 381 A381 GTC (was A24 EPB)
MGB GT 1971 EPE 838J (project)

2016 Ford Galaxy Titanium X 180bhp
Ford Transit Connect van
2016 Bailey Pegasus Verona Caravan

User avatar
Dennis Nicholas
RSSOC Member
Posts: 794
Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2007 1:22 pm
Location: Devon

Re: My midlife GTC

Post by Dennis Nicholas » Mon Dec 12, 2016 1:19 pm

"thirst for super-unleaded will take a little more getting used to, but I'm loving it."
Guy I am getting 28mpg. Manual O/D. and correct 185 X 80 X 14 tyres. (195 X 70 X 14 have a smaller circumference so show more miles than actual so false mpg reading). I am one of these sados that always faithfully record fuel used and milage so average mpg results over many thousand miles..it also helps to show drop off in performance if any.
Factors helping this:- I use Castrol Valvemaster Plus which is fuel additive to get over unleaded and it also adds 2 octanes so becomes equivalent to super leaded.
Also have "Alan Dean" gauzes which gives equal fuel distribution to all cylinders and better atomising and more efficient burning.
The secret "extra" is the use in engine/manual OD gearbox and back axle of Anti Friction Metal Treatment added to oil at 10% by volume for first oil change then 5% on subsequent changes. Previously I used Molyslip (Another Alan dean favourite) to advantage. After the first treatment with AFMT and about 100 miles my mpg had improved by 2mpg. The AFMT has been proved by MIRA and SINTEF (one of the largest labs in the oil industry at Norwegian institute of technology). Example results:- Mira - - Cam and scuffing CEC L-31-T-81 Test method....39.6% reduction in cam lift loss: 26.4% reduction in cam weight loss; 13.4% reduction in tappet weight loss.
SINTEF ...Steel vs. Steel Block on ring machine....up to 14.9% reduction in friction: 36% reduction in temperature: 78.8% reduction in wear.
Not cheap but it more than pays for itself in mpg alone between oil changes, then there is the added bonus of less wear, less heat and smoother running. :D It is also very importantly non corrosive. (most oils are known to have a corrosive content yes even that well known long standing one.

I get it by 5 lit can...much cheaper than single dose size cans. And if several people get together to get bigger can and share it out it would be even cheaper.
I have negotiated a club discount and will coordinate supply to your door at no profit by myself.

ps for the oil additive sceptics (like me) if you do not believe it works please take it up with MIRA and SINTEF and prove to them that their test fugures are wrong!

Dennis


Dennis Nicholas(RSSOC)
1980 GTC Trafalgar Blue, 2010 basic Skoda Yeti (petrol), Austin 7s, Rileys.

User avatar
guybetts
RSSOC Member
Posts: 490
Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2009 1:04 pm
Location: Berkshire

Re: My midlife GTC

Post by guybetts » Sun Apr 30, 2017 7:54 pm

Been a while since I noted anything here.
Anyway, I've been getting on with a number of little jobs that inevitably with Scimitar's turn into bigger jobs.

Over the past few weeks I've been refurbishing the Wolfrace alloys in preparation for some new rubber. Yesterday I finally got the tyres fitted. I was hoping to have these ready for last weekend in time for drive it day, but a weeping coolant pipe stopped that :(

Over half term I had some time off, and took a break from the wheels, to replace the headlights with quadoptics and all the housings with plastic. I've kept the sealed beam main beams for now, but may change these at a later date.

I ordered a replacement set of cooling pipes and SS pipe sections, and SS hose clamps. They arrived during the week and I set to yesterday to remove all the old hoses and replace with new. The radiator is in good condition and everything was going well. I flushed through the radiator though very little crud came out - it seems very clean :-). Having refitted everything, I then began refilling the system. Then... coolant p*****g out the otter switch. I thought it was going too well :(

I guess the rubber has hardened and disturbing it has caused this.

Does anyone have any words of wisdom to rectify this, or should I wait till I've ordered a replacement and fitted it ?

Yet another delay before I get her back on the road :?

Guy


GTC Registrar

1966 Straight Six Coupe, 1981 GTC
Previous: SS1 1300 (C230 EPP) & 18ti (D993 WRX)

User avatar
scimjim
RSSOC Member
Posts: 40772
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:08 pm
Location: Gloucester

Re: My midlife GTC

Post by scimjim » Sun Apr 30, 2017 8:38 pm

Replacement otter switch seal every time it's disturbed. I always add secondary locking but that's just belt and braces.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), 1400 1600 1800 Zetec ST170 powered SS1 (G97), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre, TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR).
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

User avatar
guybetts
RSSOC Member
Posts: 490
Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2009 1:04 pm
Location: Berkshire

Re: My midlife GTC

Post by guybetts » Sun Apr 30, 2017 8:46 pm

Jim, what do you mean by secondary locking?

I have to admit the method of fitment is pretty flimsy - a threaded switch would be far better than the standard setup!


GTC Registrar

1966 Straight Six Coupe, 1981 GTC
Previous: SS1 1300 (C230 EPP) & 18ti (D993 WRX)

User avatar
scimjim
RSSOC Member
Posts: 40772
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:08 pm
Location: Gloucester

Re: My midlife GTC

Post by scimjim » Sun Apr 30, 2017 8:57 pm

I use stainless locking wire but others have used ty-wraps around the primary locking mechanism (the metal clip).


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), 1400 1600 1800 Zetec ST170 powered SS1 (G97), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre, TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR).
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

User avatar
guybetts
RSSOC Member
Posts: 490
Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2009 1:04 pm
Location: Berkshire

Re: My midlife GTC

Post by guybetts » Mon May 01, 2017 2:46 pm

Further investigation and the otter switch rubber seal has split. It may also have been the reason I thought the bottom hose was leaking :evil:


GTC Registrar

1966 Straight Six Coupe, 1981 GTC
Previous: SS1 1300 (C230 EPP) & 18ti (D993 WRX)

User avatar
philhoward
RSSOC Member
Posts: 27916
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 5:41 pm
Location: Staffs, UK
Contact:

Re: My midlife GTC

Post by philhoward » Mon May 01, 2017 8:07 pm

They didn't go to the trouble of casting the words "use only once" (or similar) into the seal if it wasn't necessary...

It's actually quite a good mechanical lock that holds it there - although the secondary locking system is useful to avoid any unintentional disturbance.


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
SS1 Racer
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

User avatar
guybetts
RSSOC Member
Posts: 490
Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2009 1:04 pm
Location: Berkshire

My midlife GTC

Post by guybetts » Sat Dec 08, 2018 5:12 pm

I've been overhauling the brakes for the past few months. Today I removed the servo (which was a tad awkward getting to the top right securing nut as seen looking up the footwell - only to find it was loose - possibly never tightened when fitted, as it is so awkward to get a spanner or socket on it :? )

I had already drained the brake system and removed the master cylinder from the servo.

I have not topped up the fluid during the 2 years I've had the car, and had no noticeable loss of fluid before I started the overhaul. What prompted me to start was a sound like air leaking from the servo. There was no sign of white smoke from the exhaust. There also was no discernable loss of brake performance, but I did find the rear wheel cylinders were leaking.

To get to the point, the servo had approximately 500ml of brake fluid in it. I assume that it shouldn't have any fluid in it?

Guy


GTC Registrar

1966 Straight Six Coupe, 1981 GTC
Previous: SS1 1300 (C230 EPP) & 18ti (D993 WRX)

Post Reply

Return to “Project Progress”