The adventure never ends

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

Moderators: scimjim, Lukeyboy46, Roger Pennington, philhoward, erikscimitardemon

User avatar
Gemini Bob
RIP
Posts: 6462
Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:01 pm
Location: Barnsley
Has thanked: 7 times
Been thanked: 19 times

Post by Gemini Bob » Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:08 pm

I ordered the new weather strip and window channnel from Woolies last night in preperation for the new window surrounds being fitted, if anyone else is considering this upgrade I have added pics and details below. I will let you know how everything fits together once its done and add some pictures of the process.

Description:
Large universal window channel. Single track velvet covered rubber. Approx 16mm (5/8") overall at base, but sides have natural tendency to "lean-out", making it very adaptable. Inner flanges can cope with various thicknesses of glass (5mm minimum). Price:- £3.32 inc vat per metre 5 meteres required

Image

Description:
Exterior weatherstrip in rubber with PVC vertical insert. Black velvet covering on inner face that fits against the glass. Will seal up to 11 (7/16") gap between glass and window frame but minimum 6mm (1/4") gap unless leading edge is trimmed down. Price:- £5.38 inc vat per metre 2 meteres required

Image


Regards
Bob
HUE 1979 SE6a GTE Auto
If the cap fits wear it.
If at first you don't succeed, pay someone who knows what they are doing.
Scimitars Biggest Fan
Resto http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/view ... =20&t=3377 Just for Geoff ;-)

User avatar
Gemini Bob
RIP
Posts: 6462
Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:01 pm
Location: Barnsley
Has thanked: 7 times
Been thanked: 19 times

Post by Gemini Bob » Sat Sep 19, 2009 10:01 pm

New window motors arrived yesterday tea time so set about fitting the drivers side one today and had a play with a few more bits. The part no's from Rimmer Bros BLP1068 & 1069 that Mick suggested are correct only one part needs swapping over, I lowered the window right down and then removed the 4 bolts from the motor side and then the two others nearer the lock end and then lifted it all together with the glass and slid the motor off, I then lowered the glass down and lifted the motor out. I checked them side by side and they are an exact match.

Image
I then removed this part from the other mechanism, cleaned up and then fitted to the new one.

Image
All that was left to do was to remove the plug on the end and fit two bullet connectors to the wires ready for coupling back up. To fit I lifted the glass up and supported it while slipping the scissor part back on to the runners on the glass support, I then fastened one of the motor bolts and both of the other screws in at the lock end and then switched the window up until all bolt holes lined up and then fastened the remaining bolts in.

I then fitted the new switch that I had purchased (much easier than swapping the wires over) and all works fine now:- well almost, its not as smooth as I thought it would be and still struggles when about half way up, put the multi meter on and getting 12 volts for down and 11.7 volts for up when motor dissconnected so dont think its anything to do wth that. I think the rubber window runners are shot as I have mentioned previously someone has filled them with copperslip which I have removed and sprayed 1 tin of silicon spray down them to clean them out, every thing is greased and free but I have also found that there are two rivets below the door lock that faten the window surround in place that are very loose and have about 1/4" of play on them, this could have a bearing on the operation but will not rectify until the new rubbers come and I fit the new window surround.
Last edited by Gemini Bob on Sun Sep 20, 2009 6:00 pm, edited 2 times in total.


Regards
Bob
HUE 1979 SE6a GTE Auto
If the cap fits wear it.
If at first you don't succeed, pay someone who knows what they are doing.
Scimitars Biggest Fan
Resto http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/view ... =20&t=3377 Just for Geoff ;-)

User avatar
MickP
Posts: 1034
Joined: Sat Jul 04, 2009 3:32 pm
Location: Montrose
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 10 times

Post by MickP » Sun Sep 20, 2009 12:03 am

Glad you got the windows sorted. To be honest I was kind of dissapointed that mine wer'nt smoother too.

From what I remember of Rover SD1s they were not that wonderful either - perhaps we are just used to Japanese quality now rather than British Leyland!

Michael.


SOLD: 1978 SE6a Auto.
1997 Ducati 900SS - Last carb. model.
1960 BSA Bantam D7 - more "fun" than the Ducati.
1998 Honda CG125 - great in slow traffic.
1981 Suzuki SB200 2-stroke twin - undergoing rebuild.
Gallery Project
“Technological progress has merely provided us with more efficient means for going backwards.” - Aldous Huxley.

User avatar
Gemini Bob
RIP
Posts: 6462
Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:01 pm
Location: Barnsley
Has thanked: 7 times
Been thanked: 19 times

Post by Gemini Bob » Sun Sep 20, 2009 9:15 am

Hi Michael I think it can be a lot smoother as the passenger one is far better, I do think it has something to do with the window surround and channel as copperslip is not the best lubricant. Once the window channel and strip arrives I will have another go and see how it improves it.


Regards
Bob
HUE 1979 SE6a GTE Auto
If the cap fits wear it.
If at first you don't succeed, pay someone who knows what they are doing.
Scimitars Biggest Fan
Resto http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/view ... =20&t=3377 Just for Geoff ;-)

User avatar
Gemini Bob
RIP
Posts: 6462
Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:01 pm
Location: Barnsley
Has thanked: 7 times
Been thanked: 19 times

Post by Gemini Bob » Sun Sep 20, 2009 10:04 am

While doing the window motors I decided to have a look at the door reflector/light, I know the switch is working as it turns on the hatch light but don't understand why the front one is not switching on unless it has something to do with the delay. I stripped the door light down and cleaned and replaced the bulb the unit is as new, I had only purchased 2 bulbs and broke one of them while trying to fit it (what a pig of a job they are) I noticed that there is another one underneath the door which I assume is puddle light but did not have time to look at that, can these bulbs be replaced with led ones? I think they are either T4w or BA95 I am not sure as none of the bulbs say what they are just 12v 4w.

I am also finding it hard to find a bulb for the auto box gear selection indicator, these are 12v 2w does anyone know what these are or where to purchase from? The o/s door reflector/light now works perfectly, I changed the bulb on the n/s one but nothing works on that side at all, I did remove the door switch and have a look but could not work out why it does not work, I assume the one wire to the switch is an earth?


Regards
Bob
HUE 1979 SE6a GTE Auto
If the cap fits wear it.
If at first you don't succeed, pay someone who knows what they are doing.
Scimitars Biggest Fan
Resto http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/view ... =20&t=3377 Just for Geoff ;-)

User avatar
Coupe Racing
RSSOC Member
Posts: 7351
Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2007 10:51 pm
Location: Nr Telford - Shropshire
Has thanked: 19 times
Been thanked: 94 times

Post by Coupe Racing » Sun Sep 20, 2009 10:19 am

pop a picture on of the wee bulb please and I will check

Steve


Blessed are the Cheese makers

Better to be an hour early than 1 minute late

User avatar
Gemini Bob
RIP
Posts: 6462
Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:01 pm
Location: Barnsley
Has thanked: 7 times
Been thanked: 19 times

Post by Gemini Bob » Sun Sep 20, 2009 5:51 pm

As Requested Steve a picture of the two bulbs.

Image


Regards
Bob
HUE 1979 SE6a GTE Auto
If the cap fits wear it.
If at first you don't succeed, pay someone who knows what they are doing.
Scimitars Biggest Fan
Resto http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/view ... =20&t=3377 Just for Geoff ;-)

User avatar
Coupe Racing
RSSOC Member
Posts: 7351
Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2007 10:51 pm
Location: Nr Telford - Shropshire
Has thanked: 19 times
Been thanked: 94 times

Post by Coupe Racing » Sun Sep 20, 2009 7:04 pm

which one is 2W 12v please

Try Fost or Rimmer

Will have a look in my stuff tomorrow

Steve


Blessed are the Cheese makers

Better to be an hour early than 1 minute late

User avatar
Gemini Bob
RIP
Posts: 6462
Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:01 pm
Location: Barnsley
Has thanked: 7 times
Been thanked: 19 times

Post by Gemini Bob » Sun Sep 20, 2009 7:18 pm

Hi Steve, the one on the left is the 2W one for the auto drive position indicator and the other is a 4W one for the door lights, all it says on either bulb is the voltage and the wattage.


Regards
Bob
HUE 1979 SE6a GTE Auto
If the cap fits wear it.
If at first you don't succeed, pay someone who knows what they are doing.
Scimitars Biggest Fan
Resto http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/view ... =20&t=3377 Just for Geoff ;-)

User avatar
Roger Pennington
RSSOC Member
Posts: 20106
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 9:43 pm
Has thanked: 155 times
Been thanked: 533 times

Post by Roger Pennington » Sun Sep 20, 2009 11:45 pm

Bob, for bulbs (inc. LED ones) then it's worth looking at Paul Goff's Website. He's a former Scimitar owner. As for the auto indicator bulb in particular, I've not had to replace mine, but I would have thought it was a standard Ford bulb so I'm surprised it should be difficult to get? Have you tried your local Ford dealer?

cheers,

....Roger


....Roger

RSSOC member (since 1982)
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Image

"Condition can be bought at any time; Originality, once lost, is gone forever" - Doug Nye

User avatar
Gemini Bob
RIP
Posts: 6462
Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:01 pm
Location: Barnsley
Has thanked: 7 times
Been thanked: 19 times

Post by Gemini Bob » Mon Sep 21, 2009 12:18 pm

Cheers Roger, I think I have found some LED replacement bulbs, I think the small ones are BA7s and the large ones are BA9s. I have ordered them so we will soon find out, any idea what the instrument bulbs are? I have noticed that there are a couple that are out and one or 2 more that are a little dim, if I can find an LED replacement it should improve them quite a bit and could fit when replacing the dash top.

I dont want to remove the dash etc just yet as I have enough bits kicking around and jobs on the go at the moment, Missed the delivery of the window channel/weather strip this morning so that is another day with the door panels off :x. I dont know if there is any adjustment on the window channel but will have a look later as I think the mechanism is struggling because the glass is tight in the runner as well as the rubber being past its best.
Last edited by Gemini Bob on Thu Mar 03, 2011 7:16 am, edited 1 time in total.


Regards
Bob
HUE 1979 SE6a GTE Auto
If the cap fits wear it.
If at first you don't succeed, pay someone who knows what they are doing.
Scimitars Biggest Fan
Resto http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/view ... =20&t=3377 Just for Geoff ;-)

User avatar
Roger Pennington
RSSOC Member
Posts: 20106
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 9:43 pm
Has thanked: 155 times
Been thanked: 533 times

Post by Roger Pennington » Mon Sep 21, 2009 1:10 pm

Instrument lights are 2.2 watt MES and they are rather dim (though as I normally only drive Scimitars I've got used to it).

cheers,

....Roger


....Roger

RSSOC member (since 1982)
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Image

"Condition can be bought at any time; Originality, once lost, is gone forever" - Doug Nye

User avatar
Gemini Bob
RIP
Posts: 6462
Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:01 pm
Location: Barnsley
Has thanked: 7 times
Been thanked: 19 times

Post by Gemini Bob » Mon Sep 21, 2009 2:03 pm

Cheers Roger, do these look right they are advertised as 9mm 12v ROHS MES LED bulbs but do not have a wattage so have emailed for confirmation.

This is a 30DEG one (whatever that means)
Image

This is a 100DEG one
Image


Regards
Bob
HUE 1979 SE6a GTE Auto
If the cap fits wear it.
If at first you don't succeed, pay someone who knows what they are doing.
Scimitars Biggest Fan
Resto http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/view ... =20&t=3377 Just for Geoff ;-)

User avatar
philhoward
RSSOC Member
Posts: 25255
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 5:41 pm
Location: Staffs, UK
Has thanked: 64 times
Been thanked: 632 times
Contact:

Post by philhoward » Mon Sep 21, 2009 6:15 pm

30 degree and 100 degree is the field of light - narrow and wideband, if you like. LEDs omit directional light, so you'd need the 100 degree ones.


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

User avatar
Gemini Bob
RIP
Posts: 6462
Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:01 pm
Location: Barnsley
Has thanked: 7 times
Been thanked: 19 times

Post by Gemini Bob » Mon Sep 21, 2009 7:53 pm

Nice one Phil, perhaps you could also tell me what ROHS means too :) I can get by with electrics but have no real knowledge just bits I picked up from a car sparky.


Regards
Bob
HUE 1979 SE6a GTE Auto
If the cap fits wear it.
If at first you don't succeed, pay someone who knows what they are doing.
Scimitars Biggest Fan
Resto http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/view ... =20&t=3377 Just for Geoff ;-)

Post Reply

Return to “Project Progress”