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Gemini Bob
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Post by Gemini Bob » Sun Sep 13, 2009 9:02 pm

Cheers Roger, electrics are not my forte so will have to ask at my local motor factors if they have any in stock, do they do them with the same pin configuration ie 2 pin.


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Bob
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Gemini Bob
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Post by Gemini Bob » Mon Sep 14, 2009 11:54 am

Well since I cleaned the contacts up the indicators are performing better than they have ever done, now working nice and quick (even when parked up no engine running) and I can hear the flasher unit working now which I could not hear before so I will see how it goes but get a spare anyways.


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Bob
HUE 1979 SE6a GTE Auto
If the cap fits wear it.
If at first you don't succeed, pay someone who knows what they are doing.
Scimitars Biggest Fan
Resto http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/view ... =20&t=3377 Just for Geoff ;-)

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Post by Gemini Bob » Mon Sep 14, 2009 9:37 pm

First real drama with the car this evening, picked the Mrs up from work and took her for the weekly shop and when we arrived the o/s window would not raise at all. Now its a job I have been putting off until I have all the new parts that need to be fitted and then I can kill more than one bird so to speak, I sent the Mrs ahead and removed the door trim and started to check everything, n/s works fine so removed the switch and checked connections all seemed ok, then tugged at the window while and pressing the switch and hey presto up she came(One of the connectors did get hot). All in all about 10 mins before I joined her for the shop, now the door card is off I might as well have a go tommorow and see if I can get it working better than it has been as it has always been very sluggish when raised. I do have a tidy looking spare motor and mechanism which came with the car but do not know if its n/s or o/s until I find it, has anyone documented the rebuild process?

I have found an earlier post which advises Rover SD1 motor and winder mechanisms from Rimmer Bros and at under £29.00 each they have to be a steal, I may order both sides if these are the correct ones depending on how the strip down goes or if the spare is not servicable or the correct side. Has anyone ordered any of these and are they ok/right ones?


Regards
Bob
HUE 1979 SE6a GTE Auto
If the cap fits wear it.
If at first you don't succeed, pay someone who knows what they are doing.
Scimitars Biggest Fan
Resto http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/view ... =20&t=3377 Just for Geoff ;-)

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Post by guardsbrigade » Mon Sep 14, 2009 10:23 pm

I've always thought they were SD1 Bob,i looked at some on Ebay and they seemed to match mine.
I'm amazed they are available new for £29,i've seen used make £40 on the bay ! :D


Cheers Dave

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Gemini Bob
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Post by Gemini Bob » Mon Sep 14, 2009 11:30 pm

Well if they are SD1 Dave they are just under £29.00 and it does say motor and regulator and there are a few to choose from :? They are an absolute steal at that price so I will be buying some regardless, I just need to check the ones I have to see if there is a part no on them and buy some nice Teflon grease for the runners etc.

While the panel is off I might as well get the tape out and measure the door top weather strip and the window channel so I can place an order with woolies ready for when I fit the Stainless door glass surrounds and also see if I can work out what the door handle screws are so I can buy a few replacements as one of them is miles too long and 1 on the other door IIRC is not the correct one.

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID009039


Regards
Bob
HUE 1979 SE6a GTE Auto
If the cap fits wear it.
If at first you don't succeed, pay someone who knows what they are doing.
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Post by MickP » Tue Sep 15, 2009 5:54 am

I replaced both my window mechanisims a few weeks ago with SD1 ones from Rimmer Brothers and they are identical apart from the electrical plug which I had to change. It took longer to change the plug than the rest of the job did.

I have tried to rebrush and rebuild these motors in the past and it is a waste of time. Fit new ones and forget for another 30 years (with any luck).

Michael.


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Post by Gemini Bob » Tue Sep 15, 2009 7:32 am

Hi Mick, which ones did you order? as I mentioned earlier there are several different part no's.


Regards
Bob
HUE 1979 SE6a GTE Auto
If the cap fits wear it.
If at first you don't succeed, pay someone who knows what they are doing.
Scimitars Biggest Fan
Resto http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/view ... =20&t=3377 Just for Geoff ;-)

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Post by MickP » Tue Sep 15, 2009 11:48 am

Bob,

From memeory BLP1068 & 1069. But it looks like Rimmers have recently changed their website - when I ordered (can't be more that a couple of months ago) I don't recall any reference to chassis numbers being made. Perhaps that is why I had to change the plug?

I get home on Wed. or Thurs. so can check the reciept details and will get back to you.

Look about 3/4 way down this page: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/content--na ... Electrical

Michael.


SOLD: 1978 SE6a Auto.
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1960 BSA Bantam D7 - more "fun" than the Ducati.
1998 Honda CG125 - great in slow traffic.
1981 Suzuki SB200 2-stroke twin - undergoing rebuild.
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“Technological progress has merely provided us with more efficient means for going backwards.” - Aldous Huxley.

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Post by Corky » Tue Sep 15, 2009 1:08 pm

I know this SD1 thing has been mentioned many times before, but I can't remember whether or not it was mentioned about using the motors from the front or rear doors of the SD1. Does anyone know for certain which ones it is ?

The code on the previous post refers to the fronts, but I just wanted to check.

At the Rimmer price I may well buy as emergency spares.

Cheers

Steve


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Post by scimjim » Tue Sep 15, 2009 1:11 pm

various discussions over the years but apparently the only reason for using rears is when you get them from a scrappies - they should have seen less use than the fronts. If you're buying them new, either should fit.


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Post by Corky » Tue Sep 15, 2009 1:21 pm

That's interesting Jim as the rears are a fiver a piece cheaper.

:lol:

I'm assuming that when they arrive from Rimmers they have the armature for either front or rear windows (hence the price difference ?). If this is the case, I take it that you detach the motor and bolt it onto your Scimitar armature mechanism ?

Steve


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Post by totty » Tue Sep 15, 2009 1:39 pm

The full front system is an almost direct swap (only the plug to change)
The front and rear motors are interchangeable.

On the ones I've stripped although well past there best the motors were not the main problem so change the full mechanism.

Allan



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Post by Corky » Tue Sep 15, 2009 1:46 pm

Thanks Allan, that makes sense.

Cheers

Steve


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Post by Gemini Bob » Tue Sep 15, 2009 3:31 pm

Well if the rears fit too they are only £23.00 each but from the picture on the offers page they look different to the spare one I have.

The window will now not go up at all, I have renewed the connectors inside the door as they had seen better days but it still did not go up so had a look at the switch again. After playing around with the connectors and tightening and cleaning them still no joy so swapped the wires round in the door and hey presto it went up but would now not lower so it has to be either the switch or a break in the wire; tested the switch and the contacts at the opposite end of the switch contol up and down so swappped them over and this had the same effect as swapping the wires inside the door which I believe suggests a faulty switch, if this is the case where can they be purchased from or what other cars were they fitted to?


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Bob
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If the cap fits wear it.
If at first you don't succeed, pay someone who knows what they are doing.
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Post by Roger Pennington » Tue Sep 15, 2009 3:52 pm

Switches should be available from the usual suspects (I got one from GW a couple of years ago). However, have you tried giving the switch a good blast with electrical contact cleaner? The Scimitar switches are a poor design which leaves the contacts vulnerable to muck getting in, and a lot of problems can be traced to this.

cheers,

....Roger


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