SE5a YTY V8 project

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

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scimjim
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SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by scimjim » Fri Oct 04, 2019 2:23 pm

If you want simple, making it dual circuit with an SS1 servo isn’t what I would do (although I have SS1 pedal boxes and a 6b master on an SS1 servo here if you want the challenge :D )

Surely an MG (Chinese) servo and standard (ish) master cylinder is the simplest?


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), 1400 1600 1800 Zetec ST170 powered SS1 (G97), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre, TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR).
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Tinker man
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SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by Tinker man » Fri Oct 04, 2019 2:55 pm

I like simple Jim. with so much work still to do on this project then less time consuming simple is a direction i like.

so keep it single line then with the MGB set up and master cylinder like that suggested by Phil? forgive my dumb questions.
any renovation work i have done in the past has involved direct replacement not changing things around where brakes are concerned.

many thanks for the input, Ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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scimjim
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SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by scimjim » Fri Oct 04, 2019 3:27 pm

Actually, simplest would just be a new master cylinder. It would be a pretty jobsworth MOT tester that failed an obviously modified car for not having a servo as long as it passes on the rollers without having to use excessive force.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), 1400 1600 1800 Zetec ST170 powered SS1 (G97), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre, TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR).
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

Tinker man
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SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by Tinker man » Fri Oct 11, 2019 8:26 am

Morning,

so simple option gone with. Tilton M/C with 2 outlets. i can always add a remote servo if necessary.
master cylinder.jpg
master cylinder.jpg (52.63 KiB) Viewed 1784 times
as part of my random approach i have also faced the wheel spacers and tack welded to make as one..... to make life easier when changing/removing wheels etc plus te spacers were rough and not particularly flat.
wheel spacers.jpg
wheel spacers.jpg (87.16 KiB) Viewed 1784 times
also made a alternator bracket and adjuster
alternator bracket.jpg
alternator bracket.jpg (47.46 KiB) Viewed 1784 times
fuel system half located to have an engine run up in next few days... tank, electric fuel pump and filter. not in final locations, plus copper pipe run
fuel pump.jpg
fuel pump.jpg (126.17 KiB) Viewed 1784 times
brake lines run. idea is to now make a front brace strut.. finalise exhaust hangers and then place body back on to complete the fibre glass work in the engine bay...

more to follow soon i hope.

cheers


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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scimjim
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SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by scimjim » Fri Oct 11, 2019 9:00 am

Might be an idea to add some seat mounting bars when you’ve finalised seat position but before the body goes on for the last time?


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), 1400 1600 1800 Zetec ST170 powered SS1 (G97), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre, TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR).
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

Tinker man
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SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by Tinker man » Fri Oct 11, 2019 11:12 am

thanks for the suggestion Jim, its nice to know people are looking and passing useful suggestions on. If you or anyone else see's or thinks of something to do that I may have missed please let me know!

i think that when i did the seats/runners i made them so they would bolt directly to the main frame. i set the seats right back as i wont be using the rear seats and put a block of solid 3" pvc bar under the rear drilled and bolted... i will double check though when i pop the body on that all is well... i lowered the rails as much as i could to get the seats in and give some headroom. it was a while ago though.
seats.jpg
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seat 1.jpg
seat 1.jpg (96.99 KiB) Viewed 1750 times
seat 2.jpg
seat 2.jpg (168.75 KiB) Viewed 1750 times
many thanks, Ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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philhoward
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SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by philhoward » Fri Oct 11, 2019 11:23 am

They look like Alfa 147? If so, I fitted (welded) two pieces of 20mm steel conduit to the cut down framework and fitted them to the original runners on my 5a, with just the two (tilt) 1/4" bolt fixing at the front edge as the originals look to be plain 3/4" steel tube anyway. They didn't go anywhere..

Some pics..
E77353B2-A6E0-40B2-A065-BC66829C4EB9_zpshj5weywi.jpg
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C53FF59E-DAB2-4F2C-8361-5E18336F1E30_zpspjumky0s.jpg
C53FF59E-DAB2-4F2C-8361-5E18336F1E30_zpspjumky0s.jpg (116.6 KiB) Viewed 1746 times
A6CD9AF0-5A33-494A-BC1C-E8C939B8F91A_zpscwwu42da.jpg
A6CD9AF0-5A33-494A-BC1C-E8C939B8F91A_zpscwwu42da.jpg (122.67 KiB) Viewed 1746 times
762268D1-6D15-4BCE-BAEB-8231DFA7434B_zpsbfo5hozf.jpg
762268D1-6D15-4BCE-BAEB-8231DFA7434B_zpsbfo5hozf.jpg (156.35 KiB) Viewed 1746 times


Phil Howard
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SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by philhoward » Fri Oct 11, 2019 11:29 am

If you're not having rear seats at all though, I'd just chop the footwells out completely and as Jim says, fit a couple of crossmembers to mount them wherever you want. Then you can glass in a totally flat floor section.


Phil Howard
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SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
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Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
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Tinker man
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SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by Tinker man » Fri Oct 11, 2019 11:41 am

thanks for all the pictures Phil. yes Alfa 147 from the same place you got yours i think.

i will revisit the seating when i get the body back on.... it was a while ago now... :oops:

thanks a lot, Ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by philhoward » Fri Oct 11, 2019 11:46 am

Picture of yours look like they're taken on the same floor as mine were on :lol:


Phil Howard
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SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
SS1 Racer
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

Tinker man
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SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by Tinker man » Fri Oct 11, 2019 11:51 am

yes, i think we had a discussion about them and they came from the same place!

at a bargain price... :D


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

Tinker man
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SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by Tinker man » Mon Oct 14, 2019 2:54 pm

afternoon. cross-brace now manufactured.
crossbrace 1.jpg
crossbrace 1.jpg (116.74 KiB) Viewed 1673 times
crossbrace2.jpg
crossbrace2.jpg (149.91 KiB) Viewed 1673 times
overthought and engineered but means its a nice tight fit and adjustable. for those wondering how it can tighten with a one directional thread there is a bolt head held in a sleeve like bearing in one of the tubes so that the head just rotates inside the tube and allows it to be tightened. why? because i can....

the deliberate error (well the one i can see) is the alternator and water pump drive belt which doesnt go around the crank pulley. it was just to line things up. now i know where it will be sat i can get one the right length.

next job this week is to get it started.... fingers crossed on that one..

thats all for now. cheers


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

Tinker man
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SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by Tinker man » Mon Oct 21, 2019 7:21 am

Good morning,

the weekend saw an engine start up and an exhaust that now just about keeps the noise down to an acceptable level. water pump/oil pump proven and the engine is oil and water tight. to say i am relieved is an understatement. happy days.

i have a video but struggling to upload it for some reason. i will persevere for my records.

thanks, Ian.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipN ... 38Mcd_pbhz


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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Roger Pennington
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SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by Roger Pennington » Mon Oct 21, 2019 11:43 am

Well done on the start-up, :D sadly the link doesn't work though.


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SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by philhoward » Mon Oct 21, 2019 11:44 am

Well done Ian! :D


Phil Howard
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SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
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Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
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Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

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