At last! I have my SE5 back!

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

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Akuchanny
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At last! I have my SE5 back!

Post by Akuchanny » Mon Jun 24, 2019 11:50 pm

Hi Guys, thanks for the kind wishes,

I did have a few boxes of parts arrive last week so am hopefully going to get started on the car again soon. First plan is to repair the body damage and lower the floors, Has anyone done this on a se5 before? as I need some extra head room whilst I'm in the car. The plan is to put some Mk2 mxd seats in the car as well, I may shave the seat foam on the bottom by about an inch, but that depends on how they fit. Again does anyone have any pointers for which runners to use, or how to cut down the original runners.

Finally some little F***** has broken the rear boot hatch hinge. I am trying to see if there is a way that I could drill out the plat and use a bolt to secure the hinge back, as I don't really want to pull the headlining and glass in a new hinge. does anyone have any ideas about that as well?

thanks again for all the support and I am looking forward top hopefully having the car back on the road soon.


Andrew Kuchanny - 2530
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71' SE5
61' Morris Minor

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At last! I have my SE5 back!

Post by Coupe Racing » Tue Jun 25, 2019 4:25 am

The exhaust will be the biggest hurdle to lowering the floor.


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Akuchanny
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At last! I have my SE5 back!

Post by Akuchanny » Wed Jul 03, 2019 9:28 pm

I guessed the exhaust would be the issue, I am hoping to get about 1cm if possible maybe 2, just to give me a little more head room. Has anyone tried it on a se5 before?


Andrew Kuchanny - 2530
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71' SE5
61' Morris Minor

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At last! I have my SE5 back!

Post by IanC » Thu Jul 04, 2019 8:55 am

Akuchanny wrote:
Mon Jun 24, 2019 11:50 pm


Finally some little F***** has broken the rear boot hatch hinge. I am trying to see if there is a way that I could drill out the plat and use a bolt to secure the hinge back, as I don't really want to pull the headlining and glass in a new hinge. does anyone have any ideas about that as well?

I had this issue on a SE5a, I cut the broken pin out and replaced it with a short length of 6mm threaded rod, with a nut on either side of the right angled part of the glassed in bracket.
Ian
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P1010178.JPG
hatch hinge repair
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Current : SE5a 4spd auto
Past: SE5, SE5a x 3, GTC x 3, SE6, SE6a

Akuchanny
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At last! I have my SE5 back!

Post by Akuchanny » Wed Jul 17, 2019 4:55 pm

Thanks Ian.

Thats kind of what I had in mind, so have a reference to work from.

had a few calamities today, the brass tee sender sheered off in the 'new' block today and the removal tool destroyed the thread. So I am now planing on swapping the air intake manifolds over, although the new black is a later engine than the one in my 71' se5 so fingers crossed that will work.

I have realised the sump is now at the rear of the new block and wondered if anyone has found an issues with this when swapping?

Many thanks again

Andy


Andrew Kuchanny - 2530
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71' SE5
61' Morris Minor

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At last! I have my SE5 back!

Post by philhoward » Wed Jul 17, 2019 5:23 pm

Expect problems if you mix an oval port and D port inlet (head and manifold mismatch) - you'll end up with an air leak..

A rear sump engine can be converted to a front sump (swap sump, pump pick up pipe and front cover, block up the now redundant dispstick tube). I can't remember if the dipsticks are different off the top of my head. I'm not sure if you can do it the other way round though..the hole might not be there to fit a dipstick (sometimes it has a small core plug in it) and if it happens to be a VERY early V6, I don't think the oil pump pickup can be swapped either.


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Akuchanny
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At last! I have my SE5 back!

Post by Akuchanny » Wed Jul 17, 2019 9:29 pm

Thanks Phil,

From memory of the last top end rebuild the heads on the original engine are D port so I'm guessing the manifold must be d port as well. Do I have to switch all the part and the sump over? or will it fit as is? I have been unlucky (sometimes from over enthusiastic help) with this engine, as even the Dizzy had stuck solid and had to be persuaded out. Luckily my electronic unit will replace it as it didn't far too well in the removal.

The Original block has a dip stick that comes out of the block next to the oil pressure gauge pipe, and the front cover seems to have only the pulleys and mounts for pipes on it. I am still trying to get rid of any source of swarf (again over exuberant help today). I am having trouble removing the old heater control valve as its looking a bit ropey but its just spinning on a nut and loose on the fitting at the rear now - does anyone have a fix for this?

Also does anyone have any leads on a heater blower motor, mine died a while ago and now seems like a opportune time to swap it as nearly everything is out of the car's engine bay.

Also I need to replace the. gearbox rear oil seal, does anyone have a way to remove this from the box, its a four speed with overdrive.

I am hoping to - if nothing else too major goes wrong, have the car running before September, fingers crossed. I then need to try and make the car pretty again.

Well I am off to no doubt be told how "expensive cars are" with that irritating look by my girlfriend when I pick her up, although I have a feel the car maybe cheaper than her in the long run :D


Andrew Kuchanny - 2530
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71' SE5
61' Morris Minor

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Post by philhoward » Wed Jul 17, 2019 9:42 pm

I’m a bit confused..

Inlet manifold and heads must match

Sump/oil pickup/front cover must match to a degree - you can leave a front sump-spec front cover on but you’ll need to block the dipstick tube off..

The two statements aren’t mutually inclusive - you can have a front sump setup with D-port inlet, oval port with rear sump or any combination as (generally) they don’t interfere with each other.

Have another look at the dipstick - I think you’ll find it’s oart of the front cover. If not then it’s a new one on me - please take a picture!


Phil Howard
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SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
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Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

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