Corky's Scimitars and other short stories

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Corky
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Corky's Scimitars and other short stories

Post by Corky » Thu Sep 03, 2020 12:50 pm

Whilst at the Curborough test/sprint weekend I picked up a few bits from Crosby Race Parts (all items have 1 careful owner apparently..) :lol: ; A hybrid T28 Turbo with a handful of miles on it, Skyline 444cc injectors and a full set on brand new ACL race series bearings. The bearing purchase meant that I could now start rebuilding the +1mm engine. This is the one I bought from a breaker, that has most definitely seen some love and action in the past.

I stripped the block down and removed the crank. Measured the crank, pistons, rods etc against the book (what a faff... how many bloody measurements ???? :lol: ), and it passed inspection. There were a couple of measurements I couldn't do to check the gudgeon pin movement, but they all felt pretty tight and I doubt there's anything to worry about.
I honed the cylinders, and they all came up beautifully. Fitted the new Hastings rings along with new shells. New water pump installed and everything else fitted with genuine Nissan gaskets and oils seals.

I've painted this one blue, just to avoid confusion with the standard engine (in red). It'll get some more detailing and paint as I go along (as expected... :mrgreen: ) .


Next job is to go over the cylinder head. The valve seats and valves look to be like new, and so do the hydraulic tappets. I've a feeling that this was refurbished at some point.
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Steve
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Corky's Scimitars and other short stories

Post by Corky » Thu Sep 03, 2020 7:23 pm

........and the head ready for strip down
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Steve
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Corky's Scimitars and other short stories

Post by Benc » Thu Sep 03, 2020 8:54 pm

Nice work Steve

The manifold flanges are ordered probably ready next week.



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Corky
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Post by Corky » Thu Sep 03, 2020 9:48 pm

Brilliant, cheers Ben.


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Corky's Scimitars and other short stories

Post by BigBobPilot » Thu Sep 03, 2020 11:06 pm

A fetching shade of (Ford?) blue!


Ben

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Corky
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Post by Corky » Fri Sep 04, 2020 6:21 am

Yes I think it is Ford. Bought a few years ago for a Cologne engine IIRC.


Steve
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Post by Corky » Fri Sep 11, 2020 8:45 pm

The crank nose on this DET looked to be OK, but when refitting the pulley I noticed that the woodruff key was quite loose.
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After some measuring, I found that the recess for the key has been modified, but whoever put the pulley back on used a standard key which was too small.
I managed to find a suitable key from a gear supplies company, so hopefully it'll be up the job and not made of cheese.
There was a sigh of relief when it went together perfectly...... measured to perfection..
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Steve
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Corky's Scimitars and other short stories

Post by MikeyBikey » Fri Sep 18, 2020 11:18 pm

Good spot and fix.


Is we sideways yet...

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Corky
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Post by Corky » Sun Sep 20, 2020 12:47 pm

Cheers Mikey.

I forgot to say that I bought a bag of five, if anyone needs one.

Next job was to take all of the valves out the head, fit new stem seals and lap the valves back in. It took me 9 hours ! At least 8hrs and 59 minutes of that seemed to be fiddling with the bloody collets :lol:

Then I cleaned up the hydraulic tappets and refitted them with a good slug of oil, refitted the cams with a healthy dose of assembly lube and fitted the new cam oil seals. I can now start to box this one up and concentrate on the inlet manifold strip and clean.
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Steve
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Post by Corky » Fri Sep 25, 2020 4:51 pm

So I'm back looking for an ECU :lol:

I've narrowed the choice down to either Omex 600 or the Haltech Elite 750. Both have their pros and cons, and I've found reputable dynos that can do either. Prices are very similar, when you factor in sensors, connectors and loom options. (link to Haltech's info) .

So I now have two questions :-

1) The guy from Omex is asking me about the stock idle control bits and pieces (AAC and Air Regulator). I understand what these two bits of kit do, but can they be deleted and if they are, how is the cold start and idle controlled by the ECU?

2) Ignition options -I could choose between using a Ford style coil pack or coil on plug. The Haltech has four ignition outputs, but I'm a little confused as to how these would be wired for either configuration. I think it's the ignitor and coil that's confusing me, as some coils appear to be two in one and others aren't. Can anyone recommend a suitable coil pack/ignitor/Ford type setup etc. and maybe post a link to wiring diagram (or simple coil on plug, I think the VAG R8 may be a complete ignitor/coil system?).


Omex is currently the front runner by the width of cigarette paper, but the need for a crank trigger wheel and not being able to use the stock CAS is bugging me a bit. Haltech is very convincing package, but the supplied loom isn't quite as easy to fit as the Omex ready built jobbie. It does however use the standard CAS and has a built in 2.5 bar MAP sensor and does look to be very robust.



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Post by philhoward » Fri Sep 25, 2020 5:20 pm

Nick K uses an Omex and I think Darryl does too now (he does like to change his mind though :lol: ), so you'll probably get feedback from them.

Coils can be a mindfield - A coil pack (Ford EDIS one for example) is a wasted spark one; 2 end-to-end coils and need a high current driver. For this, you'd use 2 of the 4 coil circuits, and I assume tell the ECU it's running wasted spark. It then knows to fire one coil around No.1 TDC and the other coil 180 degrees later.

COP - two different flavours are around; smart and dumb or low and high current if you like. I think the stock DET ones are "dumb" - you feed them the 12V they need to make the spark, so need (relatively) high current 12V to each one. "Smart" ones have a permanent 12V feed and (usually) a 5V "trigger" signal from the ECU for the inbuilt ignitor (as you say).

Wasted spark doesn't need a cam sensor to tell the ECU - COP does (which the stock CAS does tell you). Likewise sequential injection does need a cam sensor, batch fire doesn't. For an engine not needing to meet emissions regs and CO2 figures, you won't see much benefit of sequential injection. Possibly a smoother idle and low load, low speed running..

As for the fast idle/idle speed control - the dual valve setup used by Nissan has always confused me - everyone else uses one or the other. Older EFi (Bosch K/L-Jetronic) had the bimetallic valve and an adjustable stop on the throttle valve to act as the idle speed setting when hot as used on the ET, and everything since then uses either a PWM solenoid valve (2 or 3 wire) or if you're Rover, you use a 4 wire Stepper Motor. That's until the heady days of ETBs. As Jim King knows, without any sort of fast idle provision you have to sit there giving it some revs for 20-30 seconds until it can idle on its own. You still get the extra fuelling needed for a cold start, but no extra revs (in fact, less). It's the same as a carb where the choke flaps work but someone's nicked the fast idle cam.. As you do use yours on the road, I'd keep some sort of idle control, be it only cold start or a proper idle speed solenoid.


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Post by philhoward » Fri Sep 25, 2020 5:21 pm

Oh - another option is a mixture - the coil pack on my Mazda engine is a wasted spark "smart" coil with inbuilt ignitors..


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Post by Corky » Fri Sep 25, 2020 5:52 pm

Cheers Phil, that helps a lot.


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Post by philhoward » Fri Sep 25, 2020 5:56 pm

I guess most of it you already knew based on your post so excuse any eggs and sucking instructions :mrgreen:


Phil Howard
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Post by Corky » Fri Sep 25, 2020 6:26 pm

Not at all Phil, I'm very much an ECU newby. All help gratefully received..

I just want to be absolutely sure that I'm buying the right bits, and understand the consequences of any choices.


Steve
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