Early SE5 stateside

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DARK STAR
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Re: Early SE5 stateside

Post by DARK STAR » Thu Sep 24, 2015 6:59 am

Welcome back Stephen.
Hot start problems are often coil / condenser, not easy to check unless you have spares to exchange.


Chris Johnson
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Re: Early SE5 stateside

Post by Stephenl » Thu Sep 24, 2015 7:16 am

I'm on it! (soon. Going on a trip). The adjacentTVR Taimar is a suitable donor for some swap outs and experiments; that never had this problem.

Thanks :-)


'69 SE5

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DARK STAR
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Re: Early SE5 stateside

Post by DARK STAR » Thu Sep 24, 2015 7:21 am

Ah yes, I forgot you had also a baby Scimitar ;)


Chris Johnson
RSSOC 1979> Rhubarb SE6a V8 1979-1997 Dark Star Coupé 1989> Scimitar France 2010> Vert Soleil GTC 2014-2018
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On the road I don't drive fast, but I don't slow down for corners
In competition I drive very fast, but not always on the track ...

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Re: Early SE5 stateside

Post by philhoward » Thu Sep 24, 2015 8:19 am

Could be a dicky ignition switch - can you graft in a start button to test (instead of using the key in start position)?


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Re: Early SE5 stateside

Post by windy » Thu Sep 24, 2015 9:36 am

Sound like a poor or missing connection between the starter solenoid & ignition coil, ie the ballast by-pass.



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Re: Early SE5 stateside

Post by philhoward » Thu Sep 24, 2015 9:38 am

I didn't think early SE5's have a ballast (and hence no bypass either)?


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Re: Early SE5 stateside

Post by windy » Thu Sep 24, 2015 9:46 am

Yes, if theres no ballast it won't be that then!



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Re: Early SE5 stateside

Post by philhoward » Thu Sep 24, 2015 10:00 am

Jim mentioned ignition switch on the previous page and I've heard of similar problems before with the ignition contact on the switch dropping off when on the start position.

I agree it doesn't sound fuel related if it will bump start - could be a slightly poorly coil (not helped by the voltage drop during starting) as well.


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Re: Early SE5 stateside

Post by windy » Thu Sep 24, 2015 10:07 am

I've heard of that too, together with sometimes the engine "catches" just as the key is released from the sprung position, pointing to a poor or worn contact in the ignition switch. The only problem I can see with that theory though is why should it only happen with a hot engine??



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Re: Early SE5 stateside

Post by philhoward » Thu Sep 24, 2015 10:35 am

Contacts inside the switch get warm after running a while, plastic housing has a little more give or even the contacts shift slightly?

Granted, a hot engine has a weaker mixture to start with so the volt drop during starting could be enough to make not quite enough spark - bumping it means you have full battery voltage.

You could try a jump start cable from the battery negative terminal straight to the engine (a bit of unpainted metal be it the front cover, exhaust stud etc) which might reduce the volt drop a little if that is the problem? I think the US fuel can be a higher Ethanol content than we are used to - plus a lower octane rating from memory? In the UK we are used to something between 95 and 99 RON whereas "normal" over there is only 91 (like our old 2-star)? It's been a few years since I last went there..


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Re: Early SE5 stateside

Post by Stephenl » Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:47 pm

:oops:

Erm...... thanks all for those suggestions on the hot start issues; all very plausible and easy to solve. I have a bunch of spare new Lucas condensers so that's easy to try.
A recent house move and associated activity has put any chance of Scimitar fettling on hold. I've got about 25 years worth of house renovations lined up. I'm using my business skills of prioritization (yes, with a Z!) and Scimitar action is getting closer. Refurbishing the garage (double + car port :hurrah: ) was first on the list and the Scimitar is now firmly tucked in adjacent to my large work bench with 2 vices and ample storage :D . I've got to get these damn sprinklers in the garden working urgently before the garden dies then car fun restarts. I've had a lot of visitors from UK, who brought me a lot of Scimitar parts, so I have plenty of stuff lined up


'69 SE5

Stephenl
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Early SE5 stateside

Post by Stephenl » Sun Jan 05, 2020 6:17 am

Can anyone offer advice on a weird observation I have when fitting gaz shocks to the rear of my car? I adjusted them both the same, but when fitted one side is lower than the other, I'm talking getting 4 fingers between the wheel Arch and top of the tire on one side and 1 the other.
I started with 12 threads visible beneath the collar, I out the lower side to 16 and it's much better but I would have thought they would be the same?
The whole rear end was refurbished, the training arms aren't bent or anything.


'69 SE5

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Early SE5 stateside

Post by philhoward » Sun Jan 05, 2020 6:42 am

Check the height of the chassis from the floor to check for level; the body won’t be symmetrical or even fit on the chassis symmetrically either. In short, don’t rely on the wheel arch as a point of reference.


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Early SE5 stateside

Post by scimjim » Sun Jan 05, 2020 9:24 am

Did you replace the springs at the same time? Swap side to side to check they’re the same.


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Early SE5 stateside

Post by Stephenl » Sun Jan 05, 2020 3:05 pm

Ok, good tips. I'll give it a try today.
Yes the shocks and springs are all new both sides
Thanks


'69 SE5

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