Joe's 1972 GTE - Is it not Finished Yet?

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Joe's 1972 GTE - Wiring loom Repair

Post by Nigel Clark » Wed Oct 10, 2018 10:39 am

Great work Joe. I'm seriously impressed by your attention to detail!

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Joe's 1972 GTE - Wiring loom Repair

Post by willholderogri » Thu Oct 11, 2018 12:12 pm

Joe. wrote:
Wed Aug 01, 2018 4:19 pm
To operate the new heated screens I have altered the existing heated rear window switch. Instead of a simple rocker that was either on / off the aim was to modify it to a momentary type doing: front /off / rear. This sounds horrifically complicated but is actually a fairly easy job!

I started by sorting through my collection of used switches and found a spare screen wash switch,
joe where did you get the timer relays from and how much were they


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Joe's 1972 GTE - Wiring loom Repair

Post by David Tew » Thu Oct 11, 2018 3:48 pm

willholderogri wrote:
Thu Oct 11, 2018 12:12 pm
Joe. wrote:
Wed Aug 01, 2018 4:19 pm
To operate the new heated screens I have altered the existing heated rear window switch. Instead of a simple rocker that was either on / off the aim was to modify it to a momentary type doing: front /off / rear. This sounds horrifically complicated but is actually a fairly easy job!

I started by sorting through my collection of used switches and found a spare screen wash switch,
joe where did you get the timer relays from and how much were they
I have done something similar for the heated front screen, heated rear screen and radiator fan. I used some momentary Angel Eye switches and wired them so that they glow when the timer relay is on. I got the switches from a well known auction site HERE and HERE. They work a treat and cost about £7 for each application. :)
Heater timer.jpg
Heater timer.jpg (133.56 KiB) Viewed 1162 times


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Joe's 1972 GTE - Wiring loom Repair

Post by Joe. » Thu Oct 11, 2018 10:34 pm

willholderogri wrote:
Thu Oct 11, 2018 12:12 pm
Joe. wrote:
Wed Aug 01, 2018 4:19 pm
To operate the new heated screens I have altered the existing heated rear window switch. Instead of a simple rocker that was either on / off the aim was to modify it to a momentary type doing: front /off / rear. This sounds horrifically complicated but is actually a fairly easy job!

I started by sorting through my collection of used switches and found a spare screen wash switch,
joe where did you get the timer relays from and how much were they
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-Time-Del ... :rk:1:pf:0



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Joe's 1972 GTE - Wiring loom Repair

Post by Joe. » Fri Oct 12, 2018 12:43 am

Exhaust midboxes - Finished

Anyone on the RSSOC facebook group will be aware that my progress in this thread isnt entirely up to date... So In the next couple of weeks I'll try and fill in some of the gaps.

This post carries on from my last post on exhaust midboxes. Its a bit of a break from the wiring posts. The main electrical work is now complete. Though there is another installment on radio fitment that I might come back to in future, If i can actually admit in public that I've ditched the Motorola Radio-cassette in favor of a modern* radio. :oops:

The last post on the exhaust system was on page 24, of this thread: http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/view ... 45#p448711

I'd ripped up my old blowing drivers side midbox and bought some replacement silencers... with a view to welding them on to my exisiting pipes.

I sturgggled to get the passenger side silencer off, in the end it took lots of heat and a large hammer to free it from the tubular manifold...!

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The pipes i wanted to reuse were cut out and cleaned up with a flap disk.

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They turned out to not be a particulaly good fit in the new silencer. Not great for welding.

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So I took them to a local tube fabricator to get them stretched. Care was taken to avoid the old welds which could have cracked. Last time I came in they were making stainless handlebars for Raleigh choppers 8) I've had a few odd jobs done by this company in the past and they always do good work and dont mind doing small one off or custom jobs.

Heres a few pictures of the pipe being stretched:

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Test fitting:

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And a photo of their pipe bender just because I liked it:

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Heres the the finished job, £15 well spent:

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Which was then ready Dave to weld:

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Which menant the entire exhaust could finally be refitted:

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Joe's 1972 GTE - Wiring loom Repair

Post by MikeT » Fri Oct 12, 2018 7:40 am

Looks good Joe!


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Post by Joe. » Wed Nov 07, 2018 11:45 pm

Doors & Doorframe Hardware, - Part 1

Looking at this photo you could be forgiven for thinking that I'd spent 6 months ignoring the doors..!

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But in amongst the other work I've been tacking odd jobs relating to the doors / door frames. Stripping the old frames off last year was the trigger point. The frames needed to come apart in order to fit a set of quaterlight seals which had been remanufactured by Victor Pace and were purchased through the club. I'd bought a set as soon as they were available and they have been waiting for an opportunity to fit them ever since... I'd also got a replacement set of base rubbers direct from Victor to replace the existing ones which never seemed to be a particularly good fit. Heres a few reminder pictures that show the frames before:

The passenger side quaterlight was taped up when I put the car on the road in 2011... which stopped an annoying whistling noise but looked awful!

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The 2010 era club trader supplied base rubbers had never sat entirely right...

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While the car was being painted I started taking the old frames apart...

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It quickly turned out that much of the steel door hardware was made of rust, many of these parts sit in a 'wet' areas and 45 years of damp was finally taking its toll.

One quaterlight pivot completely fell apart on removal.

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The corner brackets that hold the frames together were not really much better...

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I took apart two sets of window frames in the end and the condition of both sets was very similar... I'd guess there are lots of frames out there that due some attention... This put me off attempting to get more second hand spares and Instead I decided to remake the hardware from scratch. This time in stainless...

I sent the quaterlight pivot off to Dave on the IOW and he was able to turn down a suitable replacement. The shoulder that the spacer sits on was done on the mill. all told they consumed quite a few hours of work. The original spacers are being reused.

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He then brazed a piece of flat bar on to the top. One of the problems with remaking these in stainless was the difficulty getting stainless in the right thickness / diameter. In the end a batch of 3mmx 12mm wide flat bar was milled to be 3mm x 7.5mm.

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The spring support bracket was quite difficult to fold due to its tight curves, attempts to fold this on a bigger folder all proved impossible. But after a bit of messing about with some formers and some creative hammering and and I was able to get something pretty close...

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All the brazed in rusty steel fixings were also removed from the bottom section of the window frame. Most were snapped off rusty stumps. I found it very hard to braze in the new fixings in without discolouring the chrome. So the majority of replacement bolts I'm using have captive heads instead.

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A first version of the frame brackets were also folded up...

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Drilled and tapped.

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I was finding working with stainless was quite hard on drill bits and taps. A tip from Dave saw me switch from using light grease /oil as a lubricant to Trefolex. Which probably saved the lives of many drill bits... It also smell great when you use it!

Its pretty good for tapping too:

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Random photo of bracket being Trial fitted.

With replacement brackets sorted I could finally fit the new quaterlight rubbers into the frames. At this point it became painfully clear that my 'ok' window frames could definitely have done with rechroming... oh well maybe next time...!

Heres a close up look at the new quaterlight rubbers.

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Compared to the old ones that came off...

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The new quaterlight seals are very well designed they are an excellent fit. The hard work Victor has put in to getting these remade has really paid off, they really are a quality product... the hours of hard work that both he and the supplier have put in have really paied off.

The seals slide into the frames with a bit of help from some soapy water.

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The quaterlight pivot parts have all been replaced in stainless (including the spring)

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I was then able to trial fit the frames on a door...

(Continued in the next post)



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Joe's 1972 GTE - Wiring loom Repair

Post by Joe. » Wed Nov 07, 2018 11:46 pm

Doors & Doorframe Hardware, - Part 2

Frames completed I was then able to trial fit them on the doors.

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I'm really pleased with the new seals, they are probably better in terms of finish and sealing than they would have been when new.

Before I could actually bolt them up I needed to sort out the trim that sits underneath the window frame. I damaged the old one while dismantling the doors, Its a vinyl cover backed on to 3mm scrim foam backed on to a plywood base board...

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As all my bits of plywood were split I've gone for plastic mount board similar to that used on my door cards.

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The black vinyl gets sandwiched between a piece of channel section and the metal section that holds the drop glass felt. This is then riveted together... when I took my old doors apart some of the original channel sections had gone very rusty, causing bubbling under the vinyl.

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In a bid to stop this happening again I've replaced the original channel with a new set in stainless...

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pre assembling the vinyl to the channel section:

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And then riveted to the door.

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The overhanging vinyl can then be folded round the plastic / plywood backing piece and trimmed,

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and everything gets glued down with contact adhesive...

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The rest of the door furniture can then be built up... winder mechanism, plastic lining, door speaker and the frame can be bolted in.

The front capping piece is then screwed on...

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Heres a few more pictures once the door cards went back on...

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Job like these always remind me of how labour intensive it must have been to mass produce a hand-built car like a Scimitar.



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Joe's 1972 GTE - Doors Doorframes & Quaterlight seals

Post by AllingtonGT » Thu Nov 08, 2018 7:55 am

Great work Joe. Really good thread. Thanks



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Joe's 1972 GTE - Doors Doorframes & Quaterlight seals

Post by DARK STAR » Sun Nov 11, 2018 6:18 pm

Agreed, I will follow this one.
How is the Coupé, Joe?


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Post by Joe. » Wed Nov 28, 2018 2:25 am

DARK STAR wrote:
Sun Nov 11, 2018 6:18 pm
Agreed, I will follow this one.
How is the Coupé, Joe?
Still with me, limited progress there...



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Post by MikeyBikey » Wed Nov 28, 2018 8:03 am

Joe, looks good. TBH I've had rechroming done and its a lottery re quality despite paying lots so maybe its not a bad things you've left them. You'd be peeved if new chrome started peeling on th edoor frames!! But thanks re the door strip pics. Its an outstanding task on my car so this helps to see what is required


Is we sideways yet...

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Joe's 1972 GTE - Radio Silence

Post by Joe. » Fri Nov 30, 2018 1:36 pm

Radio Silence:

Readers of this thread with a good memory may recall that a few posts back I was planning on fitting a period Motorola radio cassette player in order to get a working FM radio.

Heres a picture of it:

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Looks great, right?

Having the cassette function was really just an added bonus though I did waste a bit of time digging out some cassettes to try!

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As it turned out that making the new radio work with my existing amplifier setup was a major headache. (Picture: existing Genesis 4 channel amp and high level interface.)

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I wanted to keep a seperate MP3 input and to do this I planned on switching the input to the amplifier between the radio and a seperate line in from the ipod. Switching was going to be done by a phono jack switch, With it plugged in the mp3 line in would operate and with it unpluged the radio would be connected...

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It was a reasonable concept but once actually wired up there were all sorts of problems with it. The high level interface was having trouble detecting the change over and kept trying to take a feed from the radio. Additionally when the radio was working the amplified signal made horrible pops as you moved between the pre sets buttons on the front. In short it didnt really work together as I'd hoped. Time to take the Motorola back out...

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This head unit will be kept, its Ideal for a less high end insallation with some more period 20w speakers.

In an ideal world what I needed was a Radio (head unit) new enough to have a good quality line in and which could then be permanently connected to the amp. doing away with the need to switch inputs. Of course the problem is that any radio new enough to do this is going to look too modern and wont suit the dashboard...

Turns out that lots of American car modders also have this problem and there is a company called Retrosound who make a modern radio that can be adapted to fit into a range of different classic cars. The've got a UK distributor: www.retrocarstuff.com You' can also get them from moss-Europe and a few other specialists. The downside is they are not what you'd call cheap...

A hunt round on ebay and I found a used HERMOSA model for less than half the retail price. It offered most of the features I wanted, FM Radio, MP3 LIne in, Direct connection to an amplifier. It does blutetooth and hands free too but I'm less likely to use those.

Its this one: https://www.retrocarstuff.com/shop/retr ... ck-euro-bc

The Radio itself is quite compact much smaller than normal DIN unit. It came supplied with a set of mounting plates and some contol knobs.

Here's a look at it:

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After a powered test I had a go at fitting it with the face plate and dials suppied in the kit. If I'm honest I found the results to be pretty dissapointing. The plastic backing looked a bit cheap and I wasnt keen on the look of the rounded corners. Yes I'm a pedant, Detail matters!

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Next I tried an old radiomobile face plate and found the look to be much better...

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To get it to work properly The right and left control shafts were going to need shortening. To accomodate the much shallower radiomobile knobs.

The back of one of the control arms:

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Radiomobile knobs: The right hand one is a good fit on the new control arm as standard.

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This picture shows how much the arm will need to be sortened.

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The control arms Each have 5 functions, a sprung twist dial which opreates on the brass collar and a fully rotating front dial. The front dial also has a click function so the front knob and rear knob need a gap between them in order to operate correctly...

Heres a picture mid way through cutting the shaft lengths down.

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The final version:

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Test fitted:

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Fitted:

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In Car testing:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWksoM3hpsE

I've also replaced the panel dimmer switch with an aux / usb in which connects to the radio. as this seemed to be the tidyist way. I'll not miss the dimmer.

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Theres a final twist in this story but it can wait for another post...
Last edited by Joe. on Thu Dec 06, 2018 12:11 am, edited 1 time in total.



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Post by scimjim » Fri Nov 30, 2018 2:06 pm

Looks great - I have a retrosound for Sarah’s coupe (8 ball has an 8 track). I also have every single one of those albums :D


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Post by willholderogri » Fri Nov 30, 2018 2:38 pm

I went down the dimmer usb route as well best place for it


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