Occupation during my holidays

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peter freeman
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Post by peter freeman » Tue Dec 18, 2018 2:35 pm

They don't look like standard callipers to me - although hard to see - vented discs fitted ? that would explain the spacers.



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Post by gtcse8 » Tue Dec 18, 2018 2:37 pm

Peter they are the Girling Triple pots.
Just blathered in paint over the crap and rust.

Eric why do you need to change the discs, they look in excellent condition in the picture.
Mark
Last edited by gtcse8 on Tue Dec 18, 2018 2:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.


Mark Wilson. See the Beast on youtube under" RELIANT SCIMITAR CONVERSION LOL.,Se5,Se5a, Se6a, Two Se6b`s,1 & 1/2 GTC`s, SST 1800Ti & not a lot of sense

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Post by peter freeman » Tue Dec 18, 2018 2:38 pm

They look more like wilwoods on the photo - extra paint perhaps making them look larger



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Post by Eric2205 » Tue Dec 18, 2018 3:02 pm

I don't know "PlusGas", but I've got diesel



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Post by Eric2205 » Tue Dec 18, 2018 3:06 pm

gtcse8 wrote:
Tue Dec 18, 2018 2:37 pm
Peter they are the Girling Triple pots.
Just blathered in paint over the crap and rust.

Eric why do you need to change the discs, they look in excellent condition in the picture.
Mark
I know that my disc seem in very good condition but when technical check one of the disc was noted as veiled and it needs to be changed



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Post by scimjim » Tue Dec 18, 2018 3:57 pm

voilé - warped?


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Post by Eric2205 » Tue Dec 18, 2018 4:07 pm

Yes : warped
First time I heard this



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Post by gtcse8 » Tue Dec 18, 2018 7:47 pm

Eric2205 wrote:
Tue Dec 18, 2018 4:07 pm
First time I heard this
First time I heard it too??, they usually just get big grooves on the other side where the Trunnion bold catches if it`s not set up correctly


Mark Wilson. See the Beast on youtube under" RELIANT SCIMITAR CONVERSION LOL.,Se5,Se5a, Se6a, Two Se6b`s,1 & 1/2 GTC`s, SST 1800Ti & not a lot of sense

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Post by Eric2205 » Wed Dec 19, 2018 8:43 am

I have no choice: without a technical control Ok I can not ride with my car anymore



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Post by paintman » Tue Dec 25, 2018 12:13 pm

Don't overtighten the hub nut. If you do that to a taper roller bearing it will get very hot very quickly & self destruct.
Guess how I know - and it was front left on my SE5 & full lift recovery. Had a hell of a job getting the inner race off the stub axle.

Always done them by tightening the hub nut - spinning the wheel as you do it - to settle the bearing until there is just a little bit of resistance. As in the wheel slows down quicker & you can't feel any play when shaking the wheel.
Then slacken off carefully until you can just feel a bit of play when the tyre is gripped at 12 & 6 o'clock & rocked. Never had an issue when done that way either in service on any of our cars or my twin axle boat trailer or with passing the UK MOT.



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Post by ard126k » Tue Dec 25, 2018 5:04 pm

When doing the valves you need to rock the rockers (sorry) sideways to keep them from jamming on the adjuster nuts.
Alex.


1971 SE5 1977 SE6 1982 GTC

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Post by Eric2205 » Wed Dec 26, 2018 8:20 am

Hello,

This weekend I worked on the scimitar:
I didn't change my brake disc, I went to another technical center and I had a technical control OK

I adjusted my rockers, applying the advice, it was a bit long but now I do not feel like I have a sewing machine in my car.

Yesterday I went home and after 200 kms I found that the oil pressure of my engine is lower than before: 4 while at 110/120 it was around 4.8
I had a second problem: the orange light comes on, goes off when the wheel rolls ...

thank you in advance for your help



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Post by Eric2205 » Wed Dec 26, 2018 8:21 am

ard126k wrote:
Tue Dec 25, 2018 5:04 pm
When doing the valves you need to rock the rockers (sorry) sideways to keep them from jamming on the adjuster nuts.
Alex.
I paid attention to that



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Post by scimjim » Wed Dec 26, 2018 8:32 am

The oil pump pressure relief valve should set pressure to 75psi (5.2 bar) maximum, so 4.8 is very good. 4 is okay but the sudden change is concerning - have you changed your oil and filter?

Orange light is B/PADS and should come on when the handbrake is on (with the red B/FLUID) - and alone, if the brake pads need changing (or the wire going to the brake pad is broken and touching metal somewhere!)


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by Eric2205 » Wed Dec 26, 2018 8:52 am

I did my emptying there are 1000 km Castrol Classic 20W50 without changing the oil filter that had 4000 kms (a K & N)
This morning going to work hot engine I was 4.5 after 4/5 km while I usually see 5

I will check if a wire of the pads does not touch metal,



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