Occupation during my holidays

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Eric2205
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Post by Eric2205 » Tue Dec 18, 2018 8:36 am

Hello,

As I have a few holidays between Christmas and New Year I would like to work on my Scimitar:

I have to change the brake discs and I would like to know the size of the socket to unscrew the "50764B, Slotted nut, stub axle shaft"

Otherwise I was surprised to find spacers on the front wheels, there are none on the rear wheels. So is it on all Se5a?
Image

I would also like to adjust the rockers, I have never done but somebody told me "it's not complicated !" Any advice for that?
What are the spacings for the intake and the exhaust?
How to recognize the intake and exhaust valves?

thank you in advance

Regards Eric



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Post by scimjim » Tue Dec 18, 2018 9:33 am

Spacers are only standard with the optional PA alloys.

I can’t remember the size of the hub nut but it’s imperial.

Rocker numbering is from front right to rear right, then front left to rear left - same as cylinder numbering. The exhaust valves are inline with the exhaust manifold.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by scimjim » Tue Dec 18, 2018 9:37 am

It’s all in the manual but here’s the relevant page

842D8158-E662-431E-9FD6-5214997D6A58.jpeg
842D8158-E662-431E-9FD6-5214997D6A58.jpeg (321.2 KiB) Viewed 1305 times



Number three cylinder..........valve 6 (Inlet)..........valve 12 (Exhaust).......Number six cylinder
.....................................valve 5 (Exhaust).......valve 11 (Inlet)...................................

Number two cylinder..........valve 4 (Inlet)..........valve 10 (Exhaust)..........Number five cylinder
....................................valve 3 (Exhaust).......valve 9 (Inlet).......................................

Number one cylinder..........valve 2 (Inlet)...........valve 8 (Exhaust)..........Number four cylinder
...................................valve 1 (Exhaust).......valve 7 (Inlet).......................................

.......................................(front of engine)............................................................


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by Eric2205 » Tue Dec 18, 2018 10:05 am

Hi,

Thank you very much for all the informations :D :D



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Post by Oaksey » Tue Dec 18, 2018 10:40 am

The hub nut is 13/16 AF


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Post by gtcse8 » Tue Dec 18, 2018 11:59 am

Eric2205 wrote:
Tue Dec 18, 2018 8:36 am
I have to change the brake discs and I would like to know the size of the socket to unscrew the "50764B, Slotted nut, stub axle shaft"
The nut should be "Loose, and held in place with a split pin.
Hardest bit will be removing the caliper and then the Disc from the hub.

Mark


Mark Wilson. See the Beast on youtube under" RELIANT SCIMITAR CONVERSION LOL.,Se5,Se5a, Se6a, Two Se6b`s,1 & 1/2 GTC`s, SST 1800Ti & not a lot of sense

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Post by AJL Electronics » Tue Dec 18, 2018 12:20 pm

gtcse8 wrote:
Tue Dec 18, 2018 11:59 am
Eric2205 wrote:
Tue Dec 18, 2018 8:36 am
I have to change the brake discs and I would like to know the size of the socket to unscrew the "50764B, Slotted nut, stub axle shaft"
The nut should be "Loose, and held in place with a split pin.
I would query "loose" ;-) It should be tight enough to allow a sixteenth of an inch float at the top and bottom of the road wheel.


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Post by Eric2205 » Tue Dec 18, 2018 1:20 pm

I have a 13/16 socket
As I own a wolseley and a spitfire I have tools in imperial
I'm agreeing with "Hardest bit will be removing the caliper and then the Disc from the hub."
I have a shock key and a lot of WD40 !!



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Post by Eric2205 » Tue Dec 18, 2018 1:20 pm

Image

In the driver's manual I found this passage.
I am surprised by the phrase: "while while the engine is running"
I thought to do this cold engine so as not to burn my hands and it is advisable to do it hot engine
The values to be paid are different from those communicated

You advise me cold engine or hot engine?



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Post by scimjim » Tue Dec 18, 2018 2:01 pm

You need the special rocker covers to do it with the engine running - or there will be oil everywhere.

I use 12 & 20 thou cold - just nip them up a little more if any are still rattling when hot.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by Eric2205 » Tue Dec 18, 2018 2:10 pm

12 and 20 in ?



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Post by Coupe Racing » Tue Dec 18, 2018 2:19 pm

Thousandth of an inch


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Post by Eric2205 » Tue Dec 18, 2018 2:25 pm

Of course :D



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Post by AJL Electronics » Tue Dec 18, 2018 2:33 pm

Eric2205 wrote:
Tue Dec 18, 2018 1:20 pm
a lot of WD40 !!
You would be better off with penetrating oil. I prefer a 50:50 mix of ATF and Acetone, but otherwise diesel does a good job if you can't get commercial stuff like PlusGas.


Yes, we can mend your Scimitar!
Order your Scimitar parts any hour of the day at http://www.classicmicrocars.com (member's discounts).

Fancy a holiday in Gael, France? http://www.ianrhu.com

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Post by gtcse8 » Tue Dec 18, 2018 2:34 pm

AJL Electronics wrote:
Tue Dec 18, 2018 12:20 pm
I would query "loose" It should be tight enough to allow a sixteenth of an inch float at the top and bottom of the road wheel.
They should NOT need a socket or spanner to undo them is what I meant, that`s why I put "Loose, I suppose I should have said "Finger tight, as the split pin keeps the endfloat correct. :lol:


Mark Wilson. See the Beast on youtube under" RELIANT SCIMITAR CONVERSION LOL.,Se5,Se5a, Se6a, Two Se6b`s,1 & 1/2 GTC`s, SST 1800Ti & not a lot of sense

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