Propshaft Query

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IanC
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Propshaft Query

Post by IanC » Wed Sep 25, 2019 1:01 pm

Hi Mark, thanks for the explanation about the seals. There hasn't been any oil leakage from the axle tubes up till now (and I'll be careful reassembling the shafts) plus the pinion seal is new, so i should be ok. Btw the local garage says yes, definitely vice marks! One upside to this saga is that I've found a slight weep on a wheel cylinder that i was unaware of, so that's a positive.


Current : SE5a 4spd auto , SS1 1.9CVH
Past: SE5, SE5a x 3, GTC x 3, SE6, SE6a

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Roger Pennington
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Propshaft Query

Post by Roger Pennington » Wed Sep 25, 2019 1:14 pm

It was mentioned that the axle gets quite hot in use, because of this it's important that it can breathe, so it's worth finding the breather hole and checking that it's clear. It's usually in the offside tube, about 2/3rds of the way out, facing backwards.


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Coupe Racing
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Propshaft Query

Post by Coupe Racing » Wed Sep 25, 2019 1:15 pm

Mine were facing up and covered by the handbrake cable clamp


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IanC
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Propshaft Query

Post by IanC » Wed Sep 25, 2019 6:24 pm

Roger Pennington wrote:
Wed Sep 25, 2019 1:14 pm
It was mentioned that the axle gets quite hot in use, because of this it's important that it can breathe, so it's worth finding the breather hole and checking that it's clear. It's usually in the offside tube, about 2/3rds of the way out, facing backwards.
The breather hole is clear, but took a bit of finding, as in CR's post it was covered by a clamp, but it was in the usual place.


Current : SE5a 4spd auto , SS1 1.9CVH
Past: SE5, SE5a x 3, GTC x 3, SE6, SE6a

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Dennis Nicholas
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Propshaft Query

Post by Dennis Nicholas » Fri Sep 27, 2019 10:19 am

Select a suitable size bolt and drill it out hollow. Tap the breather hole with the bolt thread and screw bolt into hole and fix with Locktite or araldite etc. it in place. Cut off the hex head. Select the correct internal diameter plastic tubing to push over the bolt and clamp in place. Lead the plastic tube back and up into the cubby storage areas in the boot and put one of those plastic fuel filters on the end. This ensures breather remains clear and the driest possible air can go in and out of the axle casing. The tube needs to be fixed to chassis/body allowing for enough free to allow for the movement between chassis and axle. Do a search for the photos I put on here somewhere of the job I did, inspired by others suggestions.

Dennis


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TrevorG
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Propshaft Query

Post by TrevorG » Fri Sep 27, 2019 10:58 am

Probably every landy owning scimi man has done this! We know what blocked breathers end up causing. Landy hi rise breather kits are cheap and you've then got extra to sell on. :lol:



IanC
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Propshaft Query

Post by IanC » Fri Sep 27, 2019 1:43 pm

Dennis Nicholas wrote:
Fri Sep 27, 2019 10:19 am
Select a suitable size bolt and drill it out hollow. Tap the breather hole with the bolt thread and screw bolt into hole and fix with Locktite or araldite etc. it in place. Cut off the hex head. Select the correct internal diameter plastic tubing to push over the bolt and clamp in place. Lead the plastic tube back and up into the cubby storage areas in the boot and put one of those plastic fuel filters on the end. This ensures breather remains clear and the driest possible air can go in and out of the axle casing. The tube needs to be fixed to chassis/body allowing for enough free to allow for the movement between chassis and axle. Do a search for the photos I put on here somewhere of the job I did, inspired by others suggestions.

Dennis
Thanks for that Dennis, BTW I've pm'd you.
Ian


Current : SE5a 4spd auto , SS1 1.9CVH
Past: SE5, SE5a x 3, GTC x 3, SE6, SE6a

IanC
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Propshaft Query

Post by IanC » Tue Jan 14, 2020 5:09 pm

It's a bit of a misnomer really it's morphed into a diff query. I finally eliminated the 'over run whine' by swapping the axle for a known good one.Which leaves me with a quandary . After changing the hub bearings on the noisy axle I eliminated the variation in whine when turning, but the original noise is still there. The axle is quiet when driving a steady speed and there's no clonk on taking up drive or when turning the prop flange by hand there's no real play. So it's not junk, and I'm loath to leave it collecting dust at the back of the garage . I know I'm getting delusions of adequacy after all the effort I've put into sorting this issue, but I'm tempted to delve into the axle to see if I can fix it.
I know it's a big ask, but does anyone have any idea what the likely culprit could be, that causes a whine on over-run?


Current : SE5a 4spd auto , SS1 1.9CVH
Past: SE5, SE5a x 3, GTC x 3, SE6, SE6a

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Dennis Nicholas
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Propshaft Query

Post by Dennis Nicholas » Tue Jan 14, 2020 6:23 pm

IanC wrote:
Tue Jan 14, 2020 5:09 pm
It's a bit of a misnomer really it's morphed into a diff query., but does anyone have any idea what the likely culprit could be, that causes a whine on over-run?
Google crown and pinion meshing and have a read of the various items that come up and you will get a good idea of what is happening. A realy sooper dooper set up by a very experienced/clever man may still not actually eliminate a noise. You will see what I mean after reading. Basically, on drive, one side of the teeth are in contact while on over run it is the other side of the teeth.....noise will depend on wear on one side or the other and on how well crown and pinion meshed and on bearings condition both pinion and diff. Axle may have had a re-mesh attempted at some time with the same (worn) crown and pinion or even had a crown or pinion changed on its own so no longer a matched pair!

Dennis


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IanC
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Propshaft Query

Post by IanC » Tue Jan 14, 2020 6:56 pm

Thanks for this, I'll have a read as you suggest. Maybe not just a swap of bearings job then!


Current : SE5a 4spd auto , SS1 1.9CVH
Past: SE5, SE5a x 3, GTC x 3, SE6, SE6a

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