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As always when working under a car always ensure it is well supported.

NEVER rely on a jack whether a Mechanical type of a Hydraulic type.

Always ensure whatever is supporting the Car is sturdy and will not allow the Car to fall.

Never use bricks or blocks as they can crumble.

A Scimitar landing on you will give you a sense of humour failure.

 

This relates to an Essex V6 from a 1974 Scimitar although I would be surprised if there are any differences with other years.

All pictures are expandeble by clicking on image.

There could be a number of reasons for removing the sump. Maybe just to clean the years of gunge and sludge build up. Maybe to get at the oil pump. Maybe to replace the sump gasket as this is a very common problem with oil leakes on the Essex V6, or for whatever reason it is easy to remove. If possible when draining the Oil make sure that the engine is hot. This will ensure that the oil will drain out better. Best if you can to raise the Car and allow the oil to drain overnight. This will allow the Oil that is at the top of the Engine to run down and out of the sump drain hole. If only the front of the Car is raised the drain hole being at the rear of the sump will allow the maximum amount of oil to drain. If you are removing the sump the above is not necessary as you will be cleaning the inside of the sump but there will be less oil to clean off.

The Sump Plug can be found here.

Once all the Oil is drained you will need to remove the Plate at the bottom of the Bell Housing. It is possible that a previous owner did not refit this plate. There are four bolts holding this plate on, one of the bolts also holds one side of the clutch slave cylinder. If you loosen the other slave cylinder bolt the plate will side out but it is easer if you unbolt the Slave Cylinder and tie to one side. You will find that if you remove the metal plate that is bolted to each side of the chassis you will have an easier access to this area. There are only two bolts on each side.

Plate to be removed.

Take care, do not touch the clutch pedal as you will make the cylinder piston pop out. Once the bolts holding the plate on are removed the plate should come off, note that it slots in at the top.

Plate before and after removal.

 

Once this plate is removed you can now remove the sump. Remove all the bolts except for one either side of the sump. This will allow you to hold the sump when removing these last two bolts just in case the sump drops on it's own. The bolts at the rear of the sump will require a socket drive of 1/4 inch as a normal 1/2 inch drive socket will not fit in the gap. Once all the bolts removed and assuming that the sump has not fallen off on it's own ( unlikely as it should be held on with the old gasket ) gently lever off the sump. Take care not to bend or distort at the edges as this needs to be as flat as possible to ensure a good seal with the engine block.

Sump.

Once the sump is removed you will see this.

and this.

and this.

Note the bottom of the three pictures showing the oil pump. Before attempting to remove the pump ensure that you have something to catch the oil that will drip down and some rags as this is one of those jobs that's makes oil run down your arm. To remove undo the bolt in the middle of the Pick up pipe then undo two bolts on the corner of the Oil pump. Yes you can see for bolts, one on each corner of the pump, two hold the pump to the engine block ant the other two hold the bottom cover of the pump. The easy way to know is to loosen all four bolts any wiggle the pump, the two holding it will be obvious. The Pump can now be removed. Note that there is a shaft that goes into the base of the distributor. This shaft is the drive to the pump from the distributor base. Before starting any of the above I strongly advise getting a new shaft as this wears at the edges and becomes rounded and one cold morning when the oil is thick due to cold this shaft will not be able to turn the oil pump and will spin inside the pump or distributor resulting in no oil pump rotation so no oil pressure so one knackered engine. Also it has been known for this shaft to break with age giving the same disastrous results. The cost of a replacement shaft is very low.

 

Various views of the Oil Pump can be seen below.

Note below the clip that holds the shaft to the oil pump.

It may be tempting not to refit the clip. If not fitted there is a possibility that when removing the distributor the shaft will lift out of the oil pump and drop down into the sump. Refitting the pump and sump is a reverse of the above. Before refitting the pump ( if removed ) fill the pump with oil to assist the oil pressure build up at first start. When refitting the sump always use a new gasket. There is much debate about using gasket sealant. My thought are that this area is very prone to leaks so I do use sealant. One thing to note is always clean both the surface of the engine block and the sump edges. You want to ensure that the gasket and sealant really stick. Also make sure that the sealant is applied to the outer edges as when the sump is fitted and the sealant squashed is does not squash on the inside edges and bits drop off into the sump and possibly get sucked up into the pump.

The gasket comes in four pieces and looks like this.

 

Another reason for removing the sump is to replace the Cam Drive. This is THE weak point of the Essex V6. When this cog breaks ( teeth strip as it has nylon or fibre on the early ones. These teeth go brittle with age and strip off ). The cogs can be seen in the pictures below and when replaceing the cog the front cover needs to be removed after the sump is removed.