Lockheed clutch master cylinder operation

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Lockheed clutch master cylinder operation

Post by lambo911 » Mon Oct 08, 2018 8:20 am

Hi,

Can anyone help!

My sons SE6a had a softish clutch pedal so we decided to bleed it.

All started fine then I could see air coming down the red pipe from the master. We'd been topping up the reservoir so it wasn't low fluid. And fluid wasn't coming out by the pushrod.

Eventually pressing the pedal up and down wasn't pushing any fluid down to the slave.

So I took the master cylinder off. Even though the reservoir was full the fluid didn't drip out when I removed the clutch pipe. I would also expect if I pressed in the pushrod it would squirt fluid out the pipe hole but nothing came out.

I took it apart and it looks ok, the bore wasn't rusty and the seals still had some shape so I reassembled it but again, no fluid is being pushed through.

Any ideas? Do I just need new seals?

The hole from the reservoir to the bore is clear as when I took the piston out the fluid ran out.


Richard

1978 Scimitar SE6a MOD PS
1977 Scimitar SE6a MOD no PS
1986 Mercedes 190 2.3-16 Cosworth
1966 Jaguar s-type 3.8 MOD

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Lockheed clutch master cylinder operation

Post by AJL Electronics » Mon Oct 08, 2018 8:45 am

It depends on the condition of the bore. No point putting new seals into a worn bore, unless getting it re-sleeved. If you get stuck, I stock new master cylinders for 6a onwards.


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Lockheed clutch master cylinder operation

Post by David Tew » Mon Oct 08, 2018 8:50 am

I suspect the seals are gone. As you already have the cylinder off it's an easy job to clean it thoroughly, including all the bores and drillings, and fit new seals.

Ideally use a honing tool on the main bore as this must be perfectly concentric without any longitudinal scoring.

EDIT: Andy's post got there first :). A new cylinder is a good option if you don't have a hone and at least you can be sure it works correctly.


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Lockheed clutch master cylinder operation

Post by lambo911 » Mon Oct 08, 2018 9:26 am

AJL Electronics wrote:
Mon Oct 08, 2018 8:45 am
It depends on the condition of the bore. No point putting new seals into a worn bore, unless getting it re-sleeved. If you get stuck, I stock new master cylinders for 6a onwards.
Hi Andy, how much is a new one please?


Richard

1978 Scimitar SE6a MOD PS
1977 Scimitar SE6a MOD no PS
1986 Mercedes 190 2.3-16 Cosworth
1966 Jaguar s-type 3.8 MOD

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Lockheed clutch master cylinder operation

Post by AJL Electronics » Mon Oct 08, 2018 9:49 am

lambo911 wrote:
Mon Oct 08, 2018 9:26 am
AJL Electronics wrote:
Mon Oct 08, 2018 8:45 am
It depends on the condition of the bore. No point putting new seals into a worn bore, unless getting it re-sleeved. If you get stuck, I stock new master cylinders for 6a onwards.
Hi Andy, how much is a new one please?
http://ajlelectronics.co.uk/epages/8323 ... ID=8530912


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Lockheed clutch master cylinder operation

Post by Coupe Racing » Mon Oct 08, 2018 9:56 am

Wasn't the query about the clutch Andy ?


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Lockheed clutch master cylinder operation

Post by AJL Electronics » Mon Oct 08, 2018 10:02 am

Glad someone is awake! I still have Manflu so not thinking straight. So, I may have a secondhand one still connected to its slave with a braided pipe. As for new, I need to check...


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Lockheed clutch master cylinder operation

Post by lambo911 » Mon Oct 08, 2018 11:27 am

AJL Electronics wrote:
Mon Oct 08, 2018 10:02 am
Glad someone is awake! I still have Manflu so not thinking straight. So, I may have a secondhand one still connected to its slave with a braided pipe. As for new, I need to check...
A good second hand one would be ok.

Thanks


Richard

1978 Scimitar SE6a MOD PS
1977 Scimitar SE6a MOD no PS
1986 Mercedes 190 2.3-16 Cosworth
1966 Jaguar s-type 3.8 MOD

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Lockheed clutch master cylinder operation

Post by lambo911 » Mon Jan 21, 2019 9:04 am

Hi All,

Help ! I am still struggling with this clutch master cylinder.

I eventually got the correct seals, turns out it is an Austin Ambassador part. I've put in the new seals and cleaned it all up and it is exactly the same, it doesn't pump through any fluid. I have the clutch pipe removed and the reservoir is full but nothing comes out. I would expect it to run out if the pipe is off?

What happens in the actual reservoir part of the cylinder, is there something that could be blocked that is stopping the fluid running into the spring side of the piston? If I take the piston out the fluid will run straight out so there is at least one hole that is open but I guess that hole is between the two seals on the piston.

Order of components

Push rod - Seal 1 - piston - Seal 2 - spring - outlet

I don't want to have to buy a new master cylinder if it is something simple like a blocked orifice. :(


Richard

1978 Scimitar SE6a MOD PS
1977 Scimitar SE6a MOD no PS
1986 Mercedes 190 2.3-16 Cosworth
1966 Jaguar s-type 3.8 MOD

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Lockheed clutch master cylinder operation

Post by TrevorG » Wed Jan 30, 2019 8:20 am

I know this sounds really stupid if you've checked it, but I always start with the obvious.....is the pedal pushing the rod into the master cylinder? There is a spring in the pedal and if the linkage has disconnected, it would feel like a soft pedal travel.

Failing that, you haven't anything to loose by disassembling the cylinder and cleaning and blasting air through before buying a new one. Be careful as brake fluid is nasty....plastic bag trick again, or at least a cloth over it.

Good luck



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Lockheed clutch master cylinder operation

Post by lambo911 » Fri Feb 01, 2019 3:38 pm

Hi Trevor,

Yes the operation is ok. Even on the bench it isn't pumping any fluid.

A Reliant master cylinder is very expensive however there are MGB ones available for about £60, they look the same but I guess it is the stroke that is important, or is it the slave that controls that ?


Richard

1978 Scimitar SE6a MOD PS
1977 Scimitar SE6a MOD no PS
1986 Mercedes 190 2.3-16 Cosworth
1966 Jaguar s-type 3.8 MOD

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Lockheed clutch master cylinder operation

Post by scimjim » Fri Feb 01, 2019 4:04 pm

It’s a combination of master and slave bores and stroke. Search for Land Rover clutch conversion on here.


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Lockheed clutch master cylinder operation

Post by Corky » Fri Feb 01, 2019 4:39 pm

Corky wrote:
Mon Mar 27, 2017 10:53 pm
I was asked by a member to make up a kit based on the ones I'd done for my own cars.

Parts list :-

1 Meter Goodridge plastic coated steel braided brake hose dash 3
2 X M10 1.0 male hose fitting (compression type for flexi brake hose)
2 X M10 1.0 female brake unions
2 X 15cm lengths of 3/16 copper brake pipe
1 X 7/16 20tpi UNF male brake union (suitable for 3/16 pipe)
1 X 3/8 24tpi UNF male brake union

1 X STC500100 Master Cylinder (Land Rover)
1 X FTC5071 Slave Cylinder (Land Rover)

You need to remove about 20mm of the plastic coating from the Goodridge hose prior to fitting the unions. Place the nut over the braiding, push the ferule over the inner plastic pipe but under the braiding, push the end of the union into the plastic pipe then tighten (12mm and 13mm spanners IIRC).

For the copper pipes, you need to make a bubble flare at one end then place one of the male unions over the pipe. Place the female union over the other end, then make an inverted flare.

This is how it looks :-

Image
Image


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Lockheed clutch master cylinder operation

Post by AntC » Fri Feb 01, 2019 8:28 pm

Is this for the SE6 range or would these parts be correct for an SE5 with 5a engine & gearbox?


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Lockheed clutch master cylinder operation

Post by scimjim » Fri Feb 01, 2019 8:45 pm

It’s for the 3 rod box, so would fit SCV.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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