Project BEAST build

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

Moderators: scimjim, Lukeyboy46, erikscimitardemon, Roger Pennington, philhoward

The Beast
RSSOC Member
Posts: 33
Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2020 10:56 am
Has thanked: 25 times

Project BEAST build

Post by The Beast » Thu Feb 13, 2020 10:30 am

Hello all,

This is my first thread so this is going to be fun.

I have a 1978 SE6A OD.

It was restored from the ground up and has had a lot of upgrades done as it was being prepped for hill climbs.

I now have it and would like to continue that venture but for it to also be a daily as I really enjoy driving it everywhere.

So I will ask questions about performance but it will always need to be reliable as it is being built as a daily first and foremost. If I do decide to get involved in hill climbs then I will be doing it just for the fun of it (so he says).

Thank you for all your help and advise that I have already received from some of you and for the advise still to come.



The Beast
RSSOC Member
Posts: 33
Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2020 10:56 am
Has thanked: 25 times

Project BEAST build

Post by The Beast » Thu Feb 13, 2020 10:31 am

Does anyone have advice on oil coolers for these as I will be relocating the oil filter so I might as well?



User avatar
philhoward
RSSOC Member
Posts: 26545
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 5:41 pm
Location: Staffs, UK
Has thanked: 100 times
Been thanked: 796 times
Contact:

Project BEAST build

Post by philhoward » Thu Feb 13, 2020 11:11 am

Unless doing circuit racing with a long time at full chat, I doubt you'll need a cooler?

If you do that way, I'd go with Mocal every time personally.


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
SS1 Racer
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

The Beast
RSSOC Member
Posts: 33
Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2020 10:56 am
Has thanked: 25 times

Project BEAST build

Post by The Beast » Thu Feb 13, 2020 11:31 am

philhoward wrote:
Thu Feb 13, 2020 11:11 am
Unless doing circuit racing with a long time at full chat, I doubt you'll need a cooler?

If you do that way, I'd go with Mocal every time personally.
Perfect, thank you.

I was thinking about long trips and then being stuck in traffic in the summer. Only because I have read a few of the Essex v6s overheating but then again mine has better pipping and an upgraded electric fan.

I was thinking of taking her to the ring in Germany so I guess I just want to be extra carful.



The Beast
RSSOC Member
Posts: 33
Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2020 10:56 am
Has thanked: 25 times

Project BEAST build

Post by The Beast » Thu Feb 13, 2020 11:31 am

Are there anything that anyone would recommend doing just to make sure I cover all angles?

Thanks in advance.



The Beast
RSSOC Member
Posts: 33
Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2020 10:56 am
Has thanked: 25 times

Project BEAST build

Post by The Beast » Thu Feb 13, 2020 12:26 pm

Image
Attachments
20200205_221322.jpg
20200205_221322.jpg (288.78 KiB) Viewed 853 times



User avatar
Old and Slow
RSSOC Member
Posts: 1358
Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2015 5:37 pm
Location: East Berks
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 87 times

Project BEAST build

Post by Old and Slow » Thu Feb 13, 2020 6:03 pm

IIRC one question you asked earlier was about electronic ignition.
An acquaintance has an AC Ace with the straight six engine, same as mine, and he's running a Boyer Bransden system as this keeps the points (for originality) but acts as a current booster, so the current through the points is kept very low.
http://boyerbransden.com/
One day perhaps, I'll fit this, but in general I think KISS is probably best.


Philip Needham
Ashley-bodied TR3; '54 Ford Consul; '55 AC 2-Litre Saloon;'65 850 Mini; '70 Ford Zodiac MkIV; XR3i
'81 911SC Targa, '64 Sabre Six

The Beast
RSSOC Member
Posts: 33
Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2020 10:56 am
Has thanked: 25 times

Project BEAST build

Post by The Beast » Fri Feb 14, 2020 8:49 am

Thank you for this, very helpful. I am going to look into it more and see how I get on because as I inspect this car and learn more about it, the more I realise that it has had a lot of work done and things upgraded.



The Beast
RSSOC Member
Posts: 33
Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2020 10:56 am
Has thanked: 25 times

Project BEAST build

Post by The Beast » Tue Feb 18, 2020 4:09 pm

Hi all,

Does anyone know or have an idea to why the springs under my rocker cover are red. I know that it is said to have a race engine in there but I know very little else about it. Any recommendations on where to take her to have a proper check over to see just what is in there and what has been done?

I am in Croydon London so if there is a local place, that would be amazing but if not then I just need to know where to take it, that can be trusted.

Thanks in advance.



User avatar
David Tew
RSSOC Member
Posts: 711
Joined: Sun Aug 06, 2006 11:09 am
Location: Cotswolds
Has thanked: 24 times
Been thanked: 68 times

Project BEAST build

Post by David Tew » Tue Feb 18, 2020 5:35 pm

If you have single springs with a red flash I suspect they're uprated as standard springs have a white flash. The difference is in the max revs, approximately 6,000 for standard and 7,000 for uprated.

Double springs are rated to approx 7,500 and 8,000.


- My wife says I don't listen to her ...... or something like that! -
SE4B Coupe - rebuilt on brand-new chassis.
Bought in 1978 and an RSSOC member since. 😲

The Beast
RSSOC Member
Posts: 33
Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2020 10:56 am
Has thanked: 25 times

Project BEAST build

Post by The Beast » Wed Feb 19, 2020 9:43 am

David Tew wrote:
Tue Feb 18, 2020 5:35 pm
If you have single springs with a red flash I suspect they're uprated as standard springs have a white flash. The difference is in the max revs, approximately 6,000 for standard and 7,000 for uprated.

Double springs are rated to approx 7,500 and 8,000.
Thanks David, very helpful. Is there anything else that I can look for to get an idea of what has been done without stripping the engine apart?



User avatar
Nick
Posts: 3013
Joined: Tue May 15, 2007 3:38 pm
Location: Redditch
Been thanked: 70 times

Project BEAST build

Post by Nick » Wed Feb 19, 2020 10:17 am

The old advice is to replace mechanical with electrical

Fan, Ignition and fuel pump.

If you have the rocker covers off you can check cam lift and possibly duration, also presumably it has a steel/alloy cam gear?


Nick

MR2 and Beemer 3 series, currently no Scim!
Six times SSSC Class Winner
Not over the hill, just going up it faster !

User avatar
David Tew
RSSOC Member
Posts: 711
Joined: Sun Aug 06, 2006 11:09 am
Location: Cotswolds
Has thanked: 24 times
Been thanked: 68 times

Project BEAST build

Post by David Tew » Wed Feb 19, 2020 10:33 am

The Beast wrote:
Wed Feb 19, 2020 9:43 am
Is there anything else that I can look for to get an idea of what has been done without stripping the engine apart?
It's very difficult to see exactly what internal changes might have been done. Do you have any paperwork from the PO who did the work?

You still have the DGAS carb so I wouldn't think too much radical work has been done (unless it's been bored etc! ).

It is important to check that the fibre cam gear has been changed to alloy or steel. You can do this through the old fuel pump fitting (oil catch pipe in your case). Personally, I'd be inclined to return the oil catch system back to standard. You don't really need to use catch tanks unless you're considering competition. Also run through the wiring and remove any dodgy crimps, unnecessary cabling, etc..

KISS is always a good acronym to follow as mods can hide other problems. :wink:

EDIT - Nick, you're just too quick! :lol:


- My wife says I don't listen to her ...... or something like that! -
SE4B Coupe - rebuilt on brand-new chassis.
Bought in 1978 and an RSSOC member since. 😲

The Beast
RSSOC Member
Posts: 33
Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2020 10:56 am
Has thanked: 25 times

Project BEAST build

Post by The Beast » Wed Feb 19, 2020 11:22 am

Nick wrote:
Wed Feb 19, 2020 10:17 am
The old advice is to replace mechanical with electrical

Fan, Ignition and fuel pump.

If you have the rocker covers off you can check cam lift and possibly duration, also presumably it has a steel/alloy cam gear?
Thanks Nick.

The fan, Ignition and fuel pump have all been upgraded but I am still to find out what the make and models are.



The Beast
RSSOC Member
Posts: 33
Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2020 10:56 am
Has thanked: 25 times

Project BEAST build

Post by The Beast » Wed Feb 19, 2020 11:41 am

David Tew wrote:
Wed Feb 19, 2020 10:33 am
The Beast wrote:
Wed Feb 19, 2020 9:43 am
Is there anything else that I can look for to get an idea of what has been done without stripping the engine apart?
It's very difficult to see exactly what internal changes might have been done. Do you have any paperwork from the PO who did the work?

You still have the DGAS carb so I wouldn't think too much radical work has been done (unless it's been bored etc! ).

It is important to check that the fibre cam gear has been changed to alloy or steel. You can do this through the old fuel pump fitting (oil catch pipe in your case). Personally, I'd be inclined to return the oil catch system back to standard. You don't really need to use catch tanks unless you're considering competition. Also run through the wiring and remove any dodgy crimps, unnecessary cabling, etc..

KISS is always a good acronym to follow as mods can hide other problems. :wink:

EDIT - Nick, you're just too quick! :lol:
Thank you so much, I will be checking this weekend, fingers crossed that the gears have already been done.

I completely agree about KISS, I intend on redoing the entire wiring system using toggle switches, keeping everything on a simply circuit. I am trying to find the details of the engine. I think I have the number of the fella that did the restoration, sourced and fitted the race engine.

The paperwork says that it is a race engine but not much else, it was just typed up so I just thought that he might have just said that because its painted red but when I drove it properly for the first time, it felt different.

I am trying to find someone locally to inspect it and to do some work, so if anyone knows anyone in the south that they would recommend, that would be great.



Post Reply

Return to “Project Progress”