Now what have I done!

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PeteS
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Post by PeteS » Tue Jul 16, 2019 12:19 pm

Yesterday I replaced the wires that leave the loom and connect to the starter solenoid as the originals insulation had become brittle and cracked and the ignition light was not coming on.....thought all was well as after wards ignition light came on ok.....today I thought I would make sure it runs ok....the car fires up but dies almost instantly . Have been looking at Peter's electrical diagram have I got the wires mixed up?
Brown is on the ring connecror with13mm nut
Yellow /white on upper spade
Brown/red bottom spade
Why I didn't take a photo before taking the connections off ...
Any help appreciated before I blow a fuse and one on the car
Pete



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Post by PeteS » Tue Jul 16, 2019 12:24 pm

Should read fires up and dies...predictive text !!!!!!!!!

Fixed - edit button top right :wink:



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Roger Pennington
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Post by Roger Pennington » Tue Jul 16, 2019 12:31 pm

If it fires while you've got the key in the "start" position, but then dies when you release the key, then I think it suggests you've lost the "normal running" feed (from ign switch through ballast/eureka wire to coil, on most scimitars).


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Post by PeteS » Tue Jul 16, 2019 12:40 pm

Yes that is what's happening ...my first instinct is it something I've done



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Post by PeteS » Tue Jul 16, 2019 1:00 pm

Looking at the wiring diagram it looks as though the white/ red wire is the one that is missing......the PO had bypassed the auto inhibit switch with a feed from the connector block (by the wiper motor) to the starter solenoid



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scimjim
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Post by scimjim » Tue Jul 16, 2019 1:07 pm

The brown/red from the inhibit switch replaces the white/red on manual cars. The problem isn’t at the starter, it’s between the ignition switch and ballast resistor - or it wouldn’t fire at all.


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Post by PeteS » Tue Jul 16, 2019 1:20 pm

Thanks Jim ...so my theory of a missing White/red isn't right...any thoughts of what I can try next?



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Post by scimjim » Tue Jul 16, 2019 2:11 pm

Check connections both end of the ballast and confirm voltage in and out of it with ignition on.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
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Post by PeteS » Tue Jul 16, 2019 2:50 pm

Thanks Jim. For some reason I have no ignition light again. This is on a Gtc , don't know if that makes any difference? Checked that the black /white and yellow white are on the coil terminals ok. The car still turns over and fires but will not run.... weather is too hot to think straight perhaps I will go and have a lie down in a darkened room



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Post by scimjim » Tue Jul 16, 2019 3:54 pm

Nothing to do with coil - again, it wouldn’t fire at all if they were off.

The coil power comes from two sources during starting, firstly via the starter solenoid (white/yellow to ballast, then white/yellow to the coil) during cranking - then direct from the ignition switch (white to ballast, white/yellow to coil) once you release the key from the spring loaded position.

So if it fires in the spring loaded position, your starter circuit, inhibit circuit, coil supply, etc are all working. If it dies as soon as you release the key, the fault lies either in the ignition barrel or the wiring from it, to the ballast resistor - or the ballast resistor itself. Hence, first test is for voltage at the ballast to decide which side of it the fault lies.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by PeteS » Tue Jul 16, 2019 4:06 pm

Thanks Jim just tried it again and the ignition light came on turned over and fired and died ...next try no ignition light. I'm thinking it's probably the ignition switch....have looked for the ballast but can't find it ...the coil is not exactly easy to get to even by Scimitar standards!



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Post by Roger Pennington » Tue Jul 16, 2019 4:10 pm

Didn't the Se6b/GTC normally have a eureka wire (resistive wire), rather than a ballast?


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Post by scimjim » Tue Jul 16, 2019 4:32 pm

Sorry - totally missed the GTC mention (I thought you’d sold it?) edit - wrong Peter, that’s Peter S :oops:

Almost certainly ignition switch then, although I have had a loom fail (the one between the module and coil that has the eureka wire in it).


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by PeteS » Tue Jul 16, 2019 4:36 pm

Thanks Roger....if it has a Eureka wire where is it and do they fail?



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Post by philhoward » Tue Jul 16, 2019 4:59 pm

Sounds like the contact block on the back of the ignition switch as both the ignition coil and charge lamp are straight feeds from that.

Hotwire it to test :D but check the state of the 5 way multi plug from the switch first...


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