Manny's SS1 1600

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Rattling
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Post by Rattling » Sat Jun 08, 2019 8:22 pm

I'd take out the boot liner then you can see just about everything on both sides including the frame inner wing liners etc and compare sides ,it takes about an hour to remove it but well worth it for ease of restoration :wink:


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Post by manny » Sat Jun 08, 2019 8:25 pm

Rattling wrote:
Sat Jun 08, 2019 8:22 pm
I'd take out the boot liner then you can see just about everything on both sides including the frame inner wing liners etc and compare sides ,it takes about an hour to remove it but well worth it for ease of restoration :wink:
i took boot liner previously when the tank was refurbed and it's just dropped in, so takes 2 mins to take out - i did remove it thinking it would help locate the top shock bolt.. will take gander and goose it tomorrow



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Post by manny » Sun Jun 09, 2019 1:26 pm

Good day,

one ( possible) reason ...the rear shocks have mounting holes that are not equidistant from the spring collar ..would that make a difference - i only removed the one shock but did not compare the orientation , will pop out in a bit ...being lazy at the moment..

Ta

Manny



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Post by Alan SS1 » Mon Jun 10, 2019 12:42 pm

did you put the bolts back that hold the inner wing to the floor of the boot front corners? (or might been rivets) mine are M5 SS as easier to remove etc

no bolts/fasteners allows the edge of outer wing to 'flap aboot' or at least not sit 'neatly' you can adjust the shut lines quite a bit depending on where the holes are!!! :wink:


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Post by manny » Mon Jun 10, 2019 4:08 pm

Alan SS1 wrote:
Mon Jun 10, 2019 12:42 pm
did you put the bolts back that hold the inner wing to the floor of the boot front corners? (or might been rivets) mine are M5 SS as easier to remove etc

no bolts/fasteners allows the edge of outer wing to 'flap aboot' or at least not sit 'neatly' you can adjust the shut lines quite a bit depending on where the holes are!!! :wink:
ahh ..i did not sir...but that would affect both sides ?- there is vast difference in the gaps between the wheels and arches



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Post by philhoward » Mon Jun 10, 2019 5:30 pm

What’s the relative height from the jacking point to the ground? That’s more important.


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Post by Alan SS1 » Mon Jun 10, 2019 6:02 pm

manny wrote:
Mon Jun 10, 2019 4:08 pm
Alan SS1 wrote:
Mon Jun 10, 2019 12:42 pm
did you put the bolts back that hold the inner wing to the floor of the boot front corners? (or might been rivets) mine are M5 SS as easier to remove etc

no bolts/fasteners allows the edge of outer wing to 'flap aboot' or at least not sit 'neatly' you can adjust the shut lines quite a bit depending on where the holes are!!! :wink:
ahh ..i did not sir...but that would affect both sides ?- there is vast difference in the gaps between the wheels and arches
might not be evenly 'all to pot'

but as Phil suggests, if car is NOT level then, springs
if uneven (more uneven) then panel fit due to bolting etc :wink:


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Post by manny » Thu Jun 13, 2019 5:51 pm

Good day folks,

just measured the ground <-> jacking points
The driver side is 5.25 inches
The passenger side is 6 or there about..
I have an other spare unit so will try that at the weekend , other wise new springs from ..RR ?
Ta

Manny



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Post by td99 » Thu Jun 13, 2019 5:53 pm

Is that same height front and rear jacking points?


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Post by manny » Thu Jun 13, 2019 5:56 pm

td99 wrote:
Thu Jun 13, 2019 5:53 pm
Is that same height front and rear jacking points?
i just checked the rears :oops: will check all round later



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Post by td99 » Thu Jun 13, 2019 5:58 pm

Being a bit pedantic, you really need to make sure the car is on very level surface...


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Post by scimjim » Thu Jun 13, 2019 6:15 pm

td99 wrote:
Thu Jun 13, 2019 5:58 pm
Being a bit pedantic, you really need to make sure the car is on very level surface...
and then swap the rear coilovers left and right to confirm that they’re at fault.


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Post by manny » Thu Jun 13, 2019 7:07 pm

scimjim wrote:
Thu Jun 13, 2019 6:15 pm
td99 wrote:
Thu Jun 13, 2019 5:58 pm
Being a bit pedantic, you really need to make sure the car is on very level surface...
and then swap the rear coilovers left and right to confirm that they’re at fault.
Yes- will do a proper test at the weekend in a car park nearby

Ta
Manny



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Post by manny » Fri Jun 21, 2019 1:14 pm

Good day folks

right....measurements are as follows:
ground to jacking, gap between arch and wheel top
NSF: 6", 2"
NSR 6",0.5
OSF:5.5", 1.5
OSR 5", -1.x "

so will be swapping units between sides today and remeasure on Sunday ....but seems conclusive ..?

Ta

Manny



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Post by reliant-reviver » Sat Jun 22, 2019 6:21 am

Do check your rear trailing arms to be sure one isn't giving way. Think it would be alarmingly obvious if so, but while you are there.

The Monroe rear damper / spring units are generally very good, so if you have a fully functioning replacement you could simply swap that in and carry on enjoying the car. Otherwise a few hundred quid spent with your preferred supplier for a new set of rear shocks and springs should sort it.

Re the front end, half an inch difference between sides suggests it's almost certainly time to look at replacing what is likely the original front springs.
As already mentioned I supply uprated replacements which have been fitted by countless people with much improvement reported. details here viewtopic.php?f=11&t=7221&start=75


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