The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by scimjim » Sat Apr 27, 2019 9:06 am

I have one on the shelf for the coupe too - was toying with the idea of fitting it to 8 ball though :D


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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BigBobPilot
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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by BigBobPilot » Sat Apr 27, 2019 3:54 pm

It seems I'm not the only one buying things way in advance of using them!


Ben

SS1 CA18DET race car
Latest owner of V6 coupe SRE 353G
SSSC Champion 2009, driving "Big Bob"
CSCC "Swinging 60s" race series winner in 2011, 2014 & 2015 (Group 2) sharing a Marcos with Iain Daniels

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by BigBobPilot » Mon Apr 29, 2019 8:51 pm

One of the changes to the coupe, is convert the tachometer from RVI to RVC. This is for 3 reasons: 1. to re-wire the ignition coil with it’s own feed & the tacho still to work; 2. to re-calibrate the tacho; 3. for a bit of electronic ignition future proofing.

I bought a kit from “Spiyda”, as shown below. The standard tacho has a positive feed from the ignition switch, through the tacho, then on to the ignition coil. The conversion uses a separate feed to the ignition coil, with a feed from the negative side of the coil to the tacho. It also uses modern electronics with a microchip to drive the tacho.
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The calibration sticker on the back of the tacho says 6/4/83.

First split the thing, the bezel was not easy to initially release
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After removing the tacho, it gets the guts pulled out looking something like this, with the black wire to the needle drive coil already de-soldered
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The old electronics have 3 wires & a resistor de-soldered & the new board fitted with the 3 wires that are attached to the board.

Here's the main unit on the left, centre the old electronics & right the new circuit board
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As it’s not a vehicle specific conversion board, there were 2 extra wires to solder to the board: a wire for the coil negative feed, there are 2 optional positions for this for either a standard or electronic ignition; also a wire for calibration and/or input from an ECU. These aren't yet soldered to the board in the photo below
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An extra hole also needs to be drilled in the case (circled below) to allow access to the calibration potentiometer (using the little screwdriver supplied with the kit for adjustment). If I’d measured the hole position properly, rather than eye-balling it, I wouldn't have needed to file the hole oval either...
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The unit is calibrated using a downloaded audio file, played through a computer or smart phone, which is really simple & clever. The tacho is connected to a 12V power source for calibration.
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Then back together again.
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The instructions with the kit are very clear & give wiring diagrams for before & after for the ignition coil in the vehicle. I don’t think the tacho is anything to do with my misfire issue, as I’ve by-passed the coil feed before. However, it won’t hurt to give the ignition coil a nice clean new feed.


Ben

SS1 CA18DET race car
Latest owner of V6 coupe SRE 353G
SSSC Champion 2009, driving "Big Bob"
CSCC "Swinging 60s" race series winner in 2011, 2014 & 2015 (Group 2) sharing a Marcos with Iain Daniels

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by scimjim » Mon Apr 29, 2019 9:04 pm

Funnily enough, I also have a spiyda unit on the shelf for the coupe - thanks for the pictures :D


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by BigBobPilot » Mon Apr 29, 2019 9:29 pm

All part if the service I guess!

I still need to put it back in the car at some point though, for final confirmation if functionality.


Ben

SS1 CA18DET race car
Latest owner of V6 coupe SRE 353G
SSSC Champion 2009, driving "Big Bob"
CSCC "Swinging 60s" race series winner in 2011, 2014 & 2015 (Group 2) sharing a Marcos with Iain Daniels

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by BigBobPilot » Tue Jul 02, 2019 11:47 pm

I’ve only done little bits & bobs at any one time on this, not really any concerted effort. I’ve cleaned up & re-painted the heater box, then sealed it all up at the joins & gaps. I bought a new heater matrix from QRG, along with some silicone heater pipes that have a 90 degree elbow in them.
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That is now back in, with a temporary aluminium plate blocking off the hole between the heater outlet to the footwell & the outside world above the gearbox. It have to stay until I can repair the GRP properly, but that will need the gearbox out & some investigation as to why the gearbox was actually hitting the tunnel (I think the engine mounts are spaced up – possibly for exhaust manifold clearance to the chassis out-rigger).
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Last time I drove the car, I noticed the overdrive had stopped working. This transpired to be due to the inhibitor switch falling in half!
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What a pain it is getting the switch out! However, it’s out. After trying as many spanner & socket combinations as I had available, it was time to get the angle grinder out.
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With my new shortie spanner, the task was a little simpler. The upper housing had broken along the crimped edge. Fortunately, I had the old switch, to swap the top out & then re-crimp in the vice. However, I went for belt & braces and zip-tied the whole lot together to try to stop it dropping apart again. It’s all back in, with the heater pipes fitted.
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When re-fitting the heater matrix, I fitted a new cable outer for the heater valve. The original stretched with tension, pulling the coils apart. The new one has a plastic outer, which should prevent the stretching. I applied a good dose of grease to the inner, so hopefully the heat control will have some function.

The centre switch panel is back in, with some re-wiring of the ignition & fuel pump to do.
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Ben

SS1 CA18DET race car
Latest owner of V6 coupe SRE 353G
SSSC Champion 2009, driving "Big Bob"
CSCC "Swinging 60s" race series winner in 2011, 2014 & 2015 (Group 2) sharing a Marcos with Iain Daniels

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scimjim
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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by scimjim » Wed Jul 03, 2019 12:40 am

BigBobPilot wrote:
Tue Jul 02, 2019 11:47 pm
Last time I drove the car, I noticed the overdrive had stopped working. This transpired to be due to the inhibitor switch falling in half!
20190629_212352.jpg
Ah - they all do that sir :)

One of the known problems with the remanufactured batch of switches that Nigel had made - the top needs extra restraint.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by MrGoldtop1960 » Wed Jul 03, 2019 12:35 pm

Hi Ben,
Good work on my favourite coupe!
Hope it all goes back together for Silverstone?!
Cheers
Kev


Kev Osborne
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Owner of SE5a "Colonel Mustard"
Previous - "Sid" the SS1 1800ti

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by BigBobPilot » Wed Jul 03, 2019 11:41 pm

MrGoldtop1960 wrote:
Wed Jul 03, 2019 12:35 pm
Hope it all goes back together for Silverstone?!
Hopefully all will be well, I've done about 50 miles this evening. I need to use it a bit check its ok, then a couple of bits to tidy up.

I'd bought a new Bosch coil & as I'd converted the rev counter to RVI, I've wired it all in with new wiring. Whilst checking & re-wiring I noticed that the "ignition" position on the ignition switch was a bit intermittent, so I bought a new switch too.
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Also I did a bit of tidying on the wiring behind the dash. Then out for a test drive, all seemed ok initially, but then the stuttering came back. This was the point I fitted the new dizzie cap & rotor arm, then continued to do about 40 miles with no issue. So I’ll use it & see how it goes. I'm going to do a bit of re-wiring under the bonnet & add in some relays to take some electrical load off the ignition switch, it does seem a bit overloaded.

The RVI converted rev-counter seems nice & stable. The needle doesn’t jump around when the overdrive is switched in & out like it used to.

I fitted the Retro Sound radio to the dash, just to fill the gaping hole for now, as it’s not wired in yet. I think at some point I'll tidy up the facia, as it's had various modifications over the years, like the hole below the ignition switch, which had an imobiliser fob in it & the random grommet near the glovebox.
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Ben

SS1 CA18DET race car
Latest owner of V6 coupe SRE 353G
SSSC Champion 2009, driving "Big Bob"
CSCC "Swinging 60s" race series winner in 2011, 2014 & 2015 (Group 2) sharing a Marcos with Iain Daniels

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