SE5 with Omega power

[superleggo]

Not much progress today as curing the leaks in the garage roof.

I spent a bit of time reworking the rear bracket for the gear leaver mounting plate so it should bolt to the transmission tunnel. Sorry I did not take a picture.

A friend walked into my office on Friday with the elusive part I have been missing from the fuel pump hosing so I can return to fuel to the tank via the cap rather than via the carbon filter.

Thank you Phil for offering to send me one.

fuel return fitting 003.JPG (97.08 KiB) Viewed 805 times

[superleggo]

Having mocked up the exhaust over the last few months it is time to mount it to the chassis rather than allow it it sit on the adjustable props on the floor. I welded on some M10 stailess bar to act as supports

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A couple of bolts welded to the chassis complete the middle mounting point.

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I added another mount in front of the rear axle for good measure

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Onto the other side tomorrow

[efi_sprintgte]

Good looking job

[Roger Pennington]

Those hangers look more solid than the normal ones!

[superleggo]

The rubber hangers (PU) were only £2.50 on Ebay. I bought a metre of 10mm stainless rod and bent them to shape. It seems a bit OTT but was as easy as using anything else.

I have finished the other side tonight and it seems sturdy but allows some movement.

I am just trying to decise on the advantage of welding all the joints at the boxes or leaving them as clamp on. I am thinking of welding all the joints except the one by the manifold. then it could come off in one piece and not leaks.

I have bought the rear boxes but will leave them until I get the body shell back on so I can centre them relative to the shell.

A few bits and bobs to complete then time for retrieving the shell.

[Datsundrew]

That's looking great! A proper job, they aren't going to fall off!

[superleggo]

Well I decided to well all the joints except one on the basis clamped joints are more likely to leak and if I do it properly I will never need to take off the exhaust again. I have taken off the exhausts several times today as it is easier to weld on the bench rather than on the car. It all seems to have gone ok. I have to say twin stainless exhausts are quite heavy I have probably taken a second off the 0-60 time!

I have had to cut off the flanges on the exhaust bypass system to get it to fit neatly under the passenger seat floor pan area. For some reason the drivers side is fine. They appear handed but are in different positions. Whilst I could just about get away with it I would prefer it tucked away more neatly so out with the welder again.

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I also extended the outlet pipe to get the fumes away from the car.

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[Datsundrew]

Nice job! It surprising that there seems to be a lot of room under there, until you start , then it's all a bit tighter.

[MikeyBikey]

Phil

If my conversion works out as well as your then I will be happy.

I started welding the pipes to the flanges today. Despite the tip to weld them on the inside it would appear that they have warped slightly. I will weld the other on Thursday and I am trying to decide whether to turn the welder down slightly and get less penetration in the weld and less I distortion or just to accept the distortion and grind/mill the flanges flat again.

My thoughts are get a good weld and work from there or it will fail in service. I have got to correct the first one so does it matter. I has warped by less than !mm so it may pull up on the bolts but this is not nice engineering.

I think the best answer if to pursaude a friend to mill them flat for me.

Mine got distorted. I carefully ground the proud are back using an angry grinder and a flat steel ruler. It worked a treat

[b.c.flat hat]

Don't worry about bowing!
Just put two exhaust gaskets on the front and rear, one in the middle or Vicky Vera if it's bent t'other way. S'whats on mine.

[BigBobPilot]

It's probably a bit late now, but on your exhaust hangers, the thread of the bolt is going to cut in to the isolators with the vibrattion & thermal expansion of the exhaust. You could still have used a bolt, but one with a smooth shank.

Also as the exhaust gets hot, it expands, more as you get closer to the back, due the extra length of material. About 20 -25mm at the tail pipe, reducing proportionally as you move to the front. The hangers would ideally allow for exapansion. So if you have them with the rod fore/aft then the isolator needs some room to slide. If the rods are across the car, so they isolator can rotate, then you'd have the isolator angled forwards, so it can rotate rearwards under thermal expansion.

[superleggo]

Mike

I did consider the angry grinder option to flatten the flanges but I managed to get my hands on a 4 foot belt linishing sander and it made short work on flattening the flanges.

Big Bob I did have a similar thought on the threads but it came down to what I had in the garage on a days holiday. I may regret it but will keep an eye on them and either sleeve them or replace them at a later date.

I have not managed to spend more than half an hour in the garage today so little progress to show except for welding up the flanges on the RHS pipe.

[superleggo]

For some reason only known to my friends in China on the exhaust splitter the in let is 2.25'' but the outlet is 2.5''. Not being the proud owner of any 2.3'' pipe I decided to reduce it back to 2.25''. So a bit of slicing and dicing required to blend the two together.

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It seems to fit ok.

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Just to keep Big Bob happy! I picked up some new M10 x 50mm bolts with a smooth section while I was in Plymouth. He is right really so I cut off my mountings and welded on some with a smooth section. Hopefully you will not see me on the M5 walking along with an exhaust in my hand now!

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I am just about finished on the exhaust now which is a great pity as I now beginning to get the hang of welding stainless with a MIG.

[MikeyBikey]

Where abouts are you. I work in Plymouth

[superleggo]

See PM