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Post by scimjim » Wed Oct 11, 2017 10:03 pm

So you’ve decided that they’re heating elements acting on a single coil?

That doesn’t make any sense at all.


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Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
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Post by DARK STAR » Wed Oct 11, 2017 10:08 pm

I know it doesn't make sense. I also know it doesn't work 8)
But it used to before the garage got at it ...
This is what it looks like.
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Post by scimjim » Wed Oct 11, 2017 10:11 pm

That looks more like the elements are acting on different sides - so the alternator closes it and the temp sensor opens it as it warms up (as per book other than the single/double coil).


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by DARK STAR » Thu Oct 12, 2017 6:27 am

The idea of an electric choke is already ridiculous - which idiot had the idea of sticking a sensor in the water that when it heats sends an electric current to heat an element to turn a coil in the carburettor which operates the butterflies and opens the throttle :shock:
Difficult to think of anything more complicated ... apart from the idea that one should use another element to turn the coil the other way :mrgreen:

Assuming it IS a bi-metallic coil it can only turn one way when it heats.
The whole choke body heats up and it seems to be solid, no way to open it to see if there is a mechanism inside.
And if there is a mechanism why is there a long coil instead of a short lever?


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Post by DARK STAR » Thu Oct 12, 2017 7:09 pm

This seems to work, road test booked for tomorrow 8)
Just one heating element connected (guess which!)
Some adjustment will probably be necessary but a first test was fine.
Obviously can't do a second test until it cools down.
If it is ok I will find a switched feed instead of the permanent live of the alternator which is a really daft arrangement.

The other photos are of the choke mechanism
1/ butterflies closed and idle control on the step
2/ butterflies open and idle control off the step
The sticky-out lever on the right / top right is what the coil pushes round.
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Post by AJL Electronics » Thu Oct 12, 2017 7:26 pm

The Alternator isn't a permanent feed, it should only be live whilst the engine is running.


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Post by DARK STAR » Thu Oct 12, 2017 7:27 pm

Mine is ...


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Post by DARK STAR » Thu Oct 12, 2017 7:38 pm

... but then, the diode is knackered, that would explain it :lol:


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Post by DARK STAR » Sat Oct 14, 2017 6:39 pm

So of course I forgot to disconnect the battery today :roll:
I started and ran the car, the choke worked as intended but needs adjusting.
Which I did a bit, then left it to cool several hours.
Only of course the choke heater was still working.
And I can tell you, thanks to my laser thermometer :wink: that the sender is still giving 12v when the temperature is down to 35º.
The engine will not idle without the choke until it gets up to 50º.
We'll try again tomorrow ...


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Post by DARK STAR » Mon Oct 23, 2017 9:20 pm

Back to Vert Soleil while waiting for the post for Dark Star.
I am gradually getting used to the idea that it might be finished :lol:
I have got the choke adjustment somewhere near, goodness knows what the garage had done to it because it was miles out.
Using the car as much as possible confidence is gradually returning and it is rather good.
I am almost tempted to keep it and even persuaded the boss to set foot in it again but she insists one Scimitar has to go.
Logically I should sell Dark Star and keep the comfortable, reasonable, four seater, convertible GTC.
And the Coupé is worth twice as much ... so if anyone comes up with 16 000 euros before I sell the GTC I might be forced to accept 8)

Taking stock, just about the only things that have NOT been replaced, renovated or repaired are
wheels corroded under plastic coating
gearbox tailshaft oil leak
carpets are tatty
some rust on sills (not serious)
and the gearbox / overdrive, in perfect condition

One very strange thing, since I connected the choke electrics to a switched source instead of the alternator terminal the battery doesn't go flat overnight ...
Oh, must remember to put the air filter back.
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Post by DARK STAR » Wed Nov 22, 2017 4:13 pm

Finally got round to the tappets and of course the leaky rocker covers.
The tappets were all between 0,04 and 0,05 mm which is a lot of thousandths of a ninge.
And the rocker covers weren't even tightened on the mis-fitted gaskets :roll:
The car is a lot less noisy and smelly now!

A consequence of adjusting the tappets is that the idle speed is a bit low and the choke needs adjusting again.
I'll soon be doing it in my sleep.


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Post by DARK STAR » Sun Nov 26, 2017 4:11 pm

I have done about 200 km in the last week without the slightest problem :clap:
except that I still haven't managed to adjust the choke properly.
I presume the garage have bent something trying to get it to work but I can't see what.
The choke idle speed adjuster locates perfectly with the cover off but seems to fall off the step as soon as you can't see what is happening.
If I turn the bi-metallic spring any further to hold it in place it shuts the choke butterflies completely ...
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Post by scimjim » Sun Nov 26, 2017 4:26 pm

The tab on the left definitely looks like it’s bent out of shape?


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by DARK STAR » Sun Nov 26, 2017 4:52 pm

Yes, the manual says you should bend that (really) :shock:
But I think it would be worse if I bent it back ...

To explain the operation
Left hand pivot simple, open the throttle, it turns clockwise.
Right hand pivot when cold, choke bi-metal spring pushes clockwise, closing butterflies and keeping cold idle adjuster on the step.
BUT the bit behind (with the step) is not connected to that and turns anti-clockwise when you open the throttle.
So it overcomes the spring - but should go back to rest when you lift off.
The front bit when hot also turns anti-clockwise and no longer pushes the step back into position.
I'm still thinking about it.


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Post by scimjim » Sun Nov 26, 2017 7:20 pm

now you know why everyone throws them in the bin when they go wrong :-)

I'm all for fixing things where possible but there's a limit to my time, effort & interest versus expense.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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