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Post by JohnB » Thu Feb 13, 2020 7:12 pm

The breakage does look odd, a fatigue failure would show the cracked area being dull and rough, and the area that broke eould be smooth and silvery. My failure on the coupe was classical below the thread and whilst the steering was on full lock... poor maintenance from the previous owner


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Post by peter freeman » Thu Feb 13, 2020 7:33 pm

I will be having a close look at the other side come the spring



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Post by peter freeman » Thu Feb 13, 2020 8:38 pm

I should have said I will be changing the other side come spring - as a friend reminded me I have no idea what may have happened to the car prior to me buying it 8 years and 17,000 miles ago and the car now has 308,200 on the clock.



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Post by willholderogri » Fri Feb 14, 2020 7:57 am

looks like a flaw to me as well


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Post by RogerH » Wed Feb 26, 2020 1:29 pm

Hi Peter,
My name is Roger Hogarth and am a TR4/4A owner in the TRR

A picture of your disaster was on the TRR forum yesterday.
I believe these VL's are forged rather than cast. So a casting defect is probably not the cause. (I could easily be wrong )

If it works there will be a pic showing the fracture faces and a red ring around a blackened area.
This looks like the starting place for the crack and I suggest that it is started by corrosion. The black runs deep into the body but narrowing along it way.

The pic shows a build up of muck and brown rusty stains in that close by area. It is possible for water/moisture to hang around in this and cause chaos.

The VL's are normally painted does you broken one show the remains of a good paint coating.?
Is the upper ball joint free to move - if it was seized then that would give the VL something to bend against and break.

Roger
VL XXX.jpg
VL XXX.jpg (61.74 KiB) Viewed 393 times



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Post by peter freeman » Wed Feb 26, 2020 1:43 pm

The ball joint was well lubricated and moved freely ( my first thought was that the ball joint had seized and the power steering had masked the problem ) the paint had worn off - I have replaced everything of course and will do the other side of the car then the weather permits. I got in touch with the TRR to find out if anyone there had had a similar failure as none has been reported on the Scim site. Thanks for your thoughts Roger



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Post by RogerH » Wed Feb 26, 2020 6:47 pm

Hi Peter,
not heard of this type of failure before. However there are now two historic failures to Scimitar's.
The bottom of the VL does fail if allowed to go rusty

Roger



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Post by peter freeman » Wed Feb 26, 2020 7:53 pm

Yes we already know about those two - one was rallying at the time of failure so not a big surprise



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Post by peter freeman » Sun Mar 01, 2020 7:47 pm

Just a quick update - sent the photos to the Triumph club and no-one else has had a failure like mine but the consensus is that the car has been "kerbed" or been hit at some time which has weakened the link - changing the other one as I intend doing was thought to be a good idea.



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Post by peter freeman » Sun Mar 08, 2020 6:16 pm

Did the other side today ( 7 hours ) had the car 8 years and never had to do the trunnions in that time so the bolt was solid and had to be cut out also had to cut the stub axle out and had a lot of trouble getting the bolts in the top ball joint. Thought the top wishbones may be the wrong way around but they are not - in the end used long bolts to pull the bits together then fitted the usual bolts. Glad to say no sign of corrosion on the vertical link itself. Problems getting the trunnion bolt and stub axle out accounted for a lot of the 7 hours it took but at least the weather was ok - happy now that both vertical links have been replaced - should sleep well tonight given that I have a few aches and pains.



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