Bond Equipe GT4S.

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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by SRF » Wed Feb 25, 2015 9:57 pm

http://apps.hagerty.com/ukvaluation/ind ... Backlink=1

This may be of use to some members. I assume these prices are for insurance purposes.


Ray

Reliant Scimitar SE5 1971. Already restored Sunbeam Rapier,Morris Minor,Rover P4, and Triumph Vitesse. I have also restored 8 classic tractors over the past 18 years. My latest project is a Bond Equipe GT4s

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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by SRF » Wed Mar 11, 2015 9:01 pm

I had a bit of a tickle on Ebay this week. The small Triumphs IMHO always seem to have too narrow wheels. One of the reasons is the excessive travel of the steering, wider wheels/tyres could rub against the chassis when on full lock. In spite of this I have bought 4 Weller steel wheels with chrome rim edges. They are fitted with 185 tyres which have good tread but are a bit old. I think a good compromise would be 175 or 165 tyres. For less than 50 quid for the 4 I am happy.

After a rare visit at the weekend I have been asked to give the visitor first refusal if I decide to sell the car once restored. I am still wondering if this is a good thing or bad.


Ray

Reliant Scimitar SE5 1971. Already restored Sunbeam Rapier,Morris Minor,Rover P4, and Triumph Vitesse. I have also restored 8 classic tractors over the past 18 years. My latest project is a Bond Equipe GT4s

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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by Scimher » Wed Mar 11, 2015 9:12 pm

...I don't know about the rim width on your Bond, Ray, but the original Herald width is 3.5 - I have an original set of rims in the lock-up & also a set of 135x13 tyres to go on...(I don't think you can get car tyres much narrower than that!!)



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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by Nigel Clark » Wed Mar 11, 2015 9:14 pm

£50 = bargain!

Triumph wheels have a lot of 'inset'. As a result, other wheels, which fit because they have the correct diameter and PCD, will most likely stick out further. This means on small chassis Triumphs (which includes your Bond of course). if there's a problem with wheel fouling it's most likely to be the outside of the tyre on the wheel arch, rather than rim on suspension.

Not a universal rule but applies in most cases of wide wheels on small Triumphs. Certainly true with the Starmag alloys on my GT6.

The other issue is tyre size. With a 5.5J-13 rim, 175/70-13 tyres give almost the same rolling radius as the original 145/80-13 tyres, so no problems with gearing or speedo. 165 or 175 width tyres are also less likely to catch the wheel arches than 185.

Whatever you decide, test carefully for anything fouling and check the tyres and rims after a few miles to see if there's any signs of scraping.

Hope this helps,


Nigel



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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by SRF » Wed Mar 11, 2015 11:53 pm

Scimher wrote:...I don't know about the rim width on your Bond, Ray, but the original Herald width is 3.5 - I have an original set of rims in the lock-up & also a set of 135x13 tyres to go on...(I don't think you can get car tyres much narrower than that!!)
That is narrow Geoff. I have someone wanting the original wheels.
Nigel Clark wrote:£50 = bargain!

Triumph wheels have a lot of 'inset'. As a result, other wheels, which fit because they have the correct diameter and PCD, will most likely stick out further. This means on small chassis Triumphs (which includes your Bond of course). if there's a problem with wheel fouling it's most likely to be the outside of the tyre on the wheel arch, rather than rim on suspension.

Not a universal rule but applies in most cases of wide wheels on small Triumphs. Certainly true with the Starmag alloys on my GT6.

The other issue is tyre size. With a 5.5J-13 rim, 175/70-13 tyres give almost the same rolling radius as the original 145/80-13 tyres, so no problems with gearing or speedo. 165 or 175 width tyres are also less likely to catch the wheel arches than 185.

Whatever you decide, test carefully for anything fouling and check the tyres and rims after a few miles to see if there's any signs of scraping.

Hope this helps,


Nigel
Thanks Nigel, the rears look a little too wide, but the suspension is at its funny angle, so until I get it levelled out I'm not sure. I have think the PO bolted tight. the refurbished suspension before applying weight to get the suspension level(ish). I think the shape of the Bond's rear end makes narrow wheels look even worse.


Ray

Reliant Scimitar SE5 1971. Already restored Sunbeam Rapier,Morris Minor,Rover P4, and Triumph Vitesse. I have also restored 8 classic tractors over the past 18 years. My latest project is a Bond Equipe GT4s

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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by SRF » Sun Mar 22, 2015 1:59 pm

I had chance to do some work on the Equipe and sadly the information given pre sale was not quite the truth. The master cylinders I was told had been renovated, on checking old manky seals were found. I was also told that the head had been off, decoked and valves ground in. I did a compression test and found all four cylinders below 100psi with number 1 down to 70. I took the head off and whilst it had been decoked, the head gasket didn't look new. The block and the head surfaces still had traces of old gasket.

I did the inverted test and poured white spirit into each chamber.

Image

Within minutes all the ports were wet and no1 chamber was nearly empty. So work on the head is need. I am just glad I didn't accept what was said and double checked.


Ray

Reliant Scimitar SE5 1971. Already restored Sunbeam Rapier,Morris Minor,Rover P4, and Triumph Vitesse. I have also restored 8 classic tractors over the past 18 years. My latest project is a Bond Equipe GT4s

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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by SRF » Fri Apr 10, 2015 8:59 pm

After a couple of weeks away at Easter I was able to get back in the garage. I have found a company in Warrington that will fit hardened exhaust valve seats and give the head a skim for about £200. I dropped the head off this afternoon and it should be ready next week. 2 local firms didn't even give me a quote. I have placed an order for some parts from Paddocks at Chester, I have got freepost if not it it isn't far to collect them. As recommended I have gone for a Payen gasket set. I have also got the correct fan blade for the later Spitfire engine , it is plastic and has more blades. I have got my electrolytic rust removing tank set up, and the first batch of parts will be ready tomorrow. If anyone has rusted parts to clean I can highly recommend this system. The parts come out black but with a rinse under a hose pipe and a very light rub over with a wire brush the steel comes completely clean.


Ray

Reliant Scimitar SE5 1971. Already restored Sunbeam Rapier,Morris Minor,Rover P4, and Triumph Vitesse. I have also restored 8 classic tractors over the past 18 years. My latest project is a Bond Equipe GT4s

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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by Scimher » Fri Apr 10, 2015 10:12 pm

...I've got a multi-bladed plastic fan on the Herald, Ray.....She has the larger-than-standard rad. albeit with the odd hole that has been sealed by some amazing rad. gloop that I got from my pro.pal......I'm his best customer for the stuff, apparently as the SE5 has had some as well... What I meant to say before I flew off at a tangent, is that the little Herald has never shown any propensity to overheat in the hottest of conditions which is at least partially due to that fan.......so I wouldn't worry about an electric jobbie - at least to start with!



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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by SRF » Sat Apr 11, 2015 12:02 pm

Scimher wrote:...I've got a multi-bladed plastic fan on the Herald, Ray.....She has the larger-than-standard rad. albeit with the odd hole that has been sealed by some amazing rad. gloop that I got from my pro.pal......I'm his best customer for the stuff, apparently as the SE5 has had some as well... What I meant to say before I flew off at a tangent, is that the little Herald has never shown any propensity to overheat in the hottest of conditions which is at least partially due to that fan.......so I wouldn't worry about an electric jobbie - at least to start with!
Thanks Geoff, the original fan is a paltry thing.


Ray

Reliant Scimitar SE5 1971. Already restored Sunbeam Rapier,Morris Minor,Rover P4, and Triumph Vitesse. I have also restored 8 classic tractors over the past 18 years. My latest project is a Bond Equipe GT4s

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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by SRF » Mon Apr 13, 2015 6:08 pm

The Bond is fitted with twin SU carbs, and whilst I am not in favour of messing with them if they function OK, my pair look neglected and the controls are stiff. A check to see if the slide valves work ok resulted in one being stuck at the top and one halfway. SUs are simple carbs and I must have dismantled and serviced dozens over the years. The first one came apart with no dramas and wasn't worn, it is the type with the choke operated by a lever lowering the main jet. I was pleased to see that the needle valves was made from viton and didn't need replacing so I cleaned it up and reassembled it. The second carb was a different matter. The main jet was stuck in its holder/adjuster and could not be persuaded to move.

Image
screen shot windows

The brass holder is at the bottom and the main needle is firmly stuck to it. I also noticed that the little collar that fits inside the lever which attaches to the plastic part of the needle is missing. This little collar allows the screw to be tightened without trapping the lever. It is obvious that this set hasn't worked for some time and the main jet has stuck in the up position.
I have soaked the whole thing in plus gas and will leave it overnight. The problem is the brass collar it will be difficult to hold it without destroying it


Ray

Reliant Scimitar SE5 1971. Already restored Sunbeam Rapier,Morris Minor,Rover P4, and Triumph Vitesse. I have also restored 8 classic tractors over the past 18 years. My latest project is a Bond Equipe GT4s

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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by b.c.flat hat » Mon Apr 13, 2015 8:52 pm

How do Ray. Could you use differential expansion or is this viton stuff susceptible to warmth?



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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by 747PETE » Mon Apr 13, 2015 9:28 pm

The Viton is on the tip of the needle valve,in the top of the float chambers. I would fit new jet supply pipe assemblies.Here is a snap of one of the Viton (that is what the tip material is in the picture) needle valves from my MG,the crud is from the fuel line (a long story).One thing,when you have the pistons and chambers cleaned up,just with a touch of petrol,don't use any abrasive.It is worth doing a drop test,just plug the holes in the pistons and they should drop in about 4 to 5 seconds each.Burlen keep all the spares you need.S.U.s are superb once you have set them up.Here is a link to a good site(the guy knows his onions!)
Image
They are,at a guess HS2s,so easy to rebuild,Mark One Spitfire?
http://sucarb.co.uk/?SID=d7n8jdfhttdlne ... __store=su
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/fueltext.htm#sucarbs



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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by SRF » Tue Apr 14, 2015 8:58 pm

b.c.flat hat wrote:How do Ray. Could you use differential expansion or is this viton stuff susceptible to warmth?
The ones I have are spring loaded


,
747PETE wrote:The Viton is on the tip of the needle valve,in the top of the float chambers. I would fit new jet supply pipe assemblies.Here is a snap of one of the Viton (that is what the tip material is in the picture) needle valves from my MG,the crud is from the fuel line (a long story).One thing,when you have the pistons and chambers cleaned up,just with a touch of petrol,don't use any abrasive.It is worth doing a drop test,just plug the holes in the pistons and they should drop in about 4 to 5 seconds each.Burlen keep all the spares you need.S.U.s are superb once you have set them up.Here is a link to a good site(the guy knows his onions!)
Image
They are,at a guess HS2s,so easy to rebuild,Mark One Spitfire?
http://sucarb.co.uk/?SID=d7n8jdfhttdlne ... __store=su
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/fueltext.htm#sucarbs
Thanks Pete I have dealt with these people before, very good. I managed to get the jet out using a wooden dowel, and after cleaning everything up the and resetting the main jet position the piston slid up and down nicely. I have never timed the drop Pete, if it drops with a nice thunk I am satisfied. I am going to refit everything when my head returns and try them out. The beauty is that they are so easy to get at if they need further work its a doddle to take them off.


Ray

Reliant Scimitar SE5 1971. Already restored Sunbeam Rapier,Morris Minor,Rover P4, and Triumph Vitesse. I have also restored 8 classic tractors over the past 18 years. My latest project is a Bond Equipe GT4s

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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by 747PETE » Tue Apr 14, 2015 9:23 pm

Nice project Ray,regards the S.U s,I think they are one of the best carburetors ever made,very simple but very precise and once set up properly they give great service.Burlen have always been helpful and a nice company to visit.In their reception area they have an S.U. from a Merlin engine,the throttle butterfly is the size of a dinner plate :-)



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Re: Bond Equipe GT4S.

Post by SRF » Wed Apr 15, 2015 12:38 pm

747PETE wrote:Nice project Ray,regards the S.U s,I think they are one of the best carburetors ever made,very simple but very precise and once set up properly they give great service.Burlen have always been helpful and a nice company to visit.In their reception area they have an S.U. from a Merlin engine,the throttle butterfly is the size of a dinner plate :-)
I couldn't agree more, once set up a car with SUs will start easily in any temperature.


Ray

Reliant Scimitar SE5 1971. Already restored Sunbeam Rapier,Morris Minor,Rover P4, and Triumph Vitesse. I have also restored 8 classic tractors over the past 18 years. My latest project is a Bond Equipe GT4s

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