Philip's thread of 660XYB stuff

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chrisgallacher
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Straight Six engine mount

Post by chrisgallacher » Fri Sep 14, 2018 11:01 pm

scimjim wrote:
Fri Sep 14, 2018 5:11 pm
What is the difference in height? The studs on the TR mount look long enough to add 1/2” plate under?
The mounts sit vertically i.e. in the attitude shown in the photo so it's the vertical offset between the studs and the holes which is important.


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Straight Six engine mount

Post by Old and Slow » Sat Sep 22, 2018 10:28 pm

Well, the new Zodiac mounts turned up yesterday, and it seems I might have had TR6 mounts fitted too.
The biggest problem is the studs on the Ford parts are 3/8 UNC whereas the existing mounts are 3/8 UNF, so I'm waiting for new nuts, even as we speak! :(
Here's a picture of the new and old;
New_and_old_mounts.jpg
New_and_old_mounts.jpg (156.46 KiB) Viewed 2922 times


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Straight Six engine mount

Post by chrisgallacher » Mon Sep 24, 2018 11:35 am

Your old mount is on the right? Looks definitely TR6, which explains why your engine sits 1/2" lower than it should if the brackets haven't been fettled.

Love this detective stuff!


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Straight Six rear crank seal

Post by chrisgallacher » Tue Sep 25, 2018 8:53 am

Tony, I meant to say - we need a thread about the engine work on your Sabre Six engine above :)


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Straight Six rear crank seal

Post by philynnbob » Tue Sep 25, 2018 9:16 am

Might be worth dropping sump to check it is not either of the two rear bearing side seals which are at fault first. Long shot I know,however these you can replace from under car.



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Straight Six engine mount

Post by heathsabre » Wed Sep 26, 2018 8:38 am

And it's a good idea to photograph things on graph paper!


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Straight Six engine mount

Post by Old and Slow » Fri Sep 28, 2018 8:24 pm

The UNC nuts turned up whilst we were away in France for a few days, so I'll get the Ford mounts fitted tomorrow afternoon, fingers crossed everything goes back easily.


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Straight Six rear crank seal

Post by Old and Slow » Sat Sep 29, 2018 7:37 pm

Thanks everyone for advice etc. I now have replacement bearing seals and the side seals, all I need is the enthusiasm to get underneath! :cry:


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Straight Six engine mount

Post by Old and Slow » Sat Sep 29, 2018 7:50 pm

Well, I managed to replace the nearside mount, but when I'd finally removed the offside (difficult to reach the bolts etc) I found something a bit non-standard! :shock:
Here's the proof, along with the TR6 from the nearside and the Ford part; I decided to put the original one back in as the extra height must be there for a reason.
RH_mount.jpg
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Straight Six engine mount

Post by chrisgallacher » Sat Sep 29, 2018 9:11 pm

If your oil filter's in the original position (can't recall?) I think the driver's side is where the height of the engine is most critical. Too low and the filter touches the chassis member, too high and it hits the steering column. So I'm guessing this is an attempt to restore the height of the engine on the driver's side to roughly where it was before the TR6 mounts were fitted, but the near side isn't so critical so it was left a bit lop-sided. Needless to say that's not a very appealing engineering solution!

Let's compare notes at the breakfast meet tomorrow. I think it's either stick with the original-type Zephyr mounts, or use TR6 mounts along with modified brackets (both sides) to suit.


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Taking out the Engine

Post by Old and Slow » Wed Nov 28, 2018 2:59 pm

My attempts at curing the crankshaft rear oil leak by only renewing the bottom half of the seal hasn't worked, so I need to take the engine out to get to the top half of the seal.
I intend leaving the gearbox in situ, and not disturbing the head if possible. With all ancillaries removed and the the rad out and the upper cross-member removed I think there is clearance to do this.
I will change the front oil seal, so need the timing chain cover gasket; I'll also look at the clutch - 660XYB has the Mk2 Jag Moss gearbox so I assume it is a Jaguar clutch plate. What else should I be looking at?
All suggestions and comments gratefully received (in the past I've only rebuilt BL Series A engines, hopefully nothing too different?).


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Taking out the Engine

Post by philhoward » Wed Nov 28, 2018 3:08 pm

Core plugs? For the sake of a few quid, always worth doing whilst the engine is easy to get at otherwise the law of Sod will prevail.

Clutch plate could be anything - if it doesn’t immediately tally up with anything else then I think the likes of Precision Clutches in Yeovil are good for “can I have one of these please” requests for oddball stuff


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Taking out the Engine

Post by chrisgallacher » Wed Nov 28, 2018 3:28 pm

I removed my engine with the head off, but that was because a head gasket problem kicked the work off. I think not disturbing your Mays Head is very wise if you don't need to.

I removed my engine with the cross-member out of the way, but with the head off and the gearbox disconnected I didn't have to remove either the bonnet or the rad. With the head on you may have to remove the rad to move the engine forward a bit so the rear clears the bulkhead - not certain.

Certainly core plugs. Possibly timing chain too? Readily available and cheap I think. I don't recall any particular problems - these are tough old simple engines and little is out of reach of the competent diyer.

Photos or it didn't happen :D


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Taking out the Engine

Post by Old and Slow » Sun Dec 02, 2018 10:16 pm

Hi all,
Thanks for the feedback. Next question:
Where are the core plugs on a 2.6 straight six engine? None of the Workshop Manuals I have show them, and the official Ford parts list I have (albeit for the Mk 1 engine, not Mk 3) doesn't show any either. The only item shown is a blanking plate for the rear of the camshaft.
If needed, are they available in stainless, and do you 2-part epoxy (araldite) them in place?


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Taking out the Engine

Post by Oaksey » Sun Dec 02, 2018 10:21 pm

Just measure them and buy the correct sized ones as I've not found a ready made set for them. I don't use anything to hold them in place but I coat the inside and joint faces with a water resistant sealant to aid sealing and corrosion resistance


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