Galvanising chassis

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backpain
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Galvanising chassis

Post by backpain » Wed Jun 21, 2017 8:56 am

Having stripped my coupe chassis ready to be cleaned I have been quoted 500 quid to collect/return(50miles) ,blast,,,and galvanise it.,From what I read this is the best thing to do,, value for money ?,worried about twisting and is there a lot of cleaning of bolt threads how difficult is this .


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Nick
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Re: Galvanising chassis

Post by Nick » Wed Jun 21, 2017 9:40 am

Having had galvanised Lotus chassis to fit I know all threads either need protecting before galvanising, or will require tapping/dies afterwards.

Distortion is a risk, but a Scim chassis is pretty robust. Talk to the galvaniser and previous customers.


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Re: Galvanising chassis

Post by scimitargtc » Wed Jun 21, 2017 10:25 am

SOUNDS A VERY GOOD PRICE - TAKING INTO ACCOUNT IF YOU NEEDED TO RENT A TRAILER TO TAke IT/COLLECT YOURSELF WILL COST AROUND FOR 2 HIRES SAY £50 + FUEL + THE ACTUAL GALVINISING = IN FACT THAT SOUNDS A "BARGIN"



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Re: Galvanising chassis

Post by Coupe Racing » Wed Jun 21, 2017 12:22 pm

The Coupe chassis has quite a thin gauge, especially the main box sections and are well known to rot from the inside out
Get it blasted then decide if there is enough left to galvanise


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Re: Galvanising chassis

Post by Mr Bridger » Tue Jul 04, 2017 2:57 pm

Out of interest, does galvanising obliterate the chassis number or is it still visable? (I'm assuming here that the chassis is actually stamped on a Reliant).


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Re: Galvanising chassis

Post by scimjim » Tue Jul 04, 2017 3:14 pm

It's visible on the small sports (just) but I doubt a coupe/SE5 and possibly SE6 series would still be visible - I think those cars that were factory galv were stamped a lot harder!


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Re: Galvanising chassis

Post by Mr Bridger » Tue Jul 04, 2017 3:19 pm

Aha! That's why I can't find the chassis number on my 5a then! Another mystery cleared up. Thanks Jim.


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Re: Galvanising chassis

Post by backpain » Thu Jul 06, 2017 9:02 am

backpain wrote:Having stripped my coupe chassis ready to be cleaned I have been quoted 500 quid to collect/return(50miles) ,blast,,,and galvanise it.,From what I read this is the best thing to do,, value for money ?,worried about twisting and is there a lot of cleaning of bolt threads how difficult is this .
well I got back to these people in Great Yarmouth ,they asked for photos etc so to give a firm price after a couple of days I phoned them and ask did you get my email ,yes just trying to work out how you are going to get your chassis on our lorry ,,no crane or hyab nothing to lift it and he sounded disinterested I was very pissed off :evil: :evil:


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Re: Galvanising chassis

Post by derekoss » Thu Jul 06, 2017 10:00 am

Not surprising really. Most firms in that game deal with fabricators that have forklifts and cranes. Individual private customers are a pain to them. They've also got a pretty good idea you'll never be a repeat customer !

I'm taking mine (a Fox) in on a trailer and accept it may come out bent. Entirely at my risk. They have agreed to preheat over the bath for five minutes. If you mentioned distortion they'd run a mile. The don't need the grief for what is not much money in industrial terms.

Oh and they want paid the minimum 150 bent or not !

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Re: Galvanising chassis

Post by Coupe Racing » Thu Jul 06, 2017 10:44 am

Chassis is light enough for a 2 person lift


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Re: Galvanising chassis

Post by Barrie James » Thu Jul 06, 2017 11:46 pm

There is an alternative to galvanising. You could paint the chassis with "Zinga" which is a galvanising paint. It is reputed to outlast conventional hot dip galvanising, and it is suited to overpainting with chassis paint. You can purchase it from Frosts, the Classic Car equipment specialists.
( frost.co.uk )


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Re: Galvanising chassis

Post by scmarf » Thu Jul 06, 2017 11:58 pm

Chassis number on my coupe was stamped on the front suspension strut to radiator bar in heavy stamps. It survived grit blasting twice and powder coating. Unfortunately I don't have photos.


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Re: Galvanising chassis

Post by teecee » Thu Jul 20, 2017 12:06 am

When rebuilding my coupe, we stripped the chassis and sent it for sandblasting. The sandblasting produced quite a few holes and exposed some thin areas, however this was just what we wanted as all the poor areas were cut out and new metal welded in. In particular the bottom of the front suspension turrets were completely rotten due to no drain holes from the factory. These were completely replaced, and also new cross tubes. This work was carried out by a local fabrication shop with the owner (me) assisting, and then the chassis was sent to be galvanised. You need to drill lots of drain holes, to let the zinc in and back out, and ensure there are no sealed sections or they will explode, yes you will need to re-tap all captive threads but this is easy enough. As my fabricator is sending items for galvanising on a regular basis the cost was a fraction of what others have been quoted.
No distortion in the chassis its far straighter than it was before the repairs, but make sure you prepare the chassis and weld on any brackets your require before galvanising as welding afterwards is not recommended. Hope this helps.



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Galvanising chassis

Post by backpain » Thu Aug 03, 2017 10:32 am

In the end I gave up on galvanizing ,spent a long time cleaning by hand ,I then gave it a coat of primer a then a couple of Alkythane ,Someone recommended this stuff on here time will tell :D
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