1800Ti engine removal

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Raz987
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Post by Raz987 » Sun Nov 29, 2009 4:42 pm

geoffp67 wrote:why :?:
Extremely difficult/impossible to remove the bolts holding the engine and gearbox together. I also imagine that it would be bloody difficult to line up the clutch splines and gearbox shaft when re-assembling.
Raz :)


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Post by philhoward » Sun Nov 29, 2009 5:38 pm

Having done "both ways" on other cars in the past, if i can get at the bellhousing bolts easily (first port of call, normally) then i'll pull just the engine. If they're tricky to get to, then pull the lot as one unit - much easier in the long run.


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Post by myredscimitar » Sun Nov 29, 2009 6:27 pm

Probably of no help whatsoever, but the CVH can be easily unbolted from the gearbox in situ allowing the engine to lift out leaving box in place.

The Nissan will be different, but if you can split them I think its probably an easier lift.

Keith



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Post by geoffp67 » Sun Nov 29, 2009 7:46 pm

that makes sense - cant get at the bolts - our nissan engines do tend to be a bit awkward dont they
Wonder if I can get my mitts on a nearly-new gearbox ? Dont need it, but might as well at the same time.........



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Post by scimjim » Sun Nov 29, 2009 8:04 pm

as Raz said - it's almost impossible to remove just the Nissan engine - I've actually cut sections out of the top hat ribs (that sit on top of the chassis rails) so that you can remove the awkward bellhousing bolts if you need to.

The box is as bullet proof as they come - why replace it if yours is ok? Just change the oil regularly and make sure it has a magnetic plug.


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Post by geoffp67 » Sun Nov 29, 2009 8:33 pm

thanks Jim, unless something comes up that I cant refuse I'll clean it & leave it - where to get a magnetic plug, assuming mine doesnt have one ?
geoff



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Post by scimjim » Sun Nov 29, 2009 9:13 pm

Nissan - they should be magnetic as standard


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Post by CNHSS1 » Sun Nov 29, 2009 9:41 pm

gearbox plugs are mag as std :)

engine only out is a ballache, not worth the grief, much easier to drag engine and box out as one imho


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Re: 1800Ti engine removal

Post by geoffp67 » Tue Oct 26, 2010 10:09 am

The bit I especially struggled with was the gearbox mounting rubber - the plate it sits on is between the two chassis rails, easy to find, but its bolted in place by four 13mm bolts, in front of and behind the plate, hidden in the flanges of the chassis. Two of us couldn't see them. Thanks to Craig for telling me that they exist :D



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Re: 1800Ti engine removal

Post by geoffp67 » Wed Nov 03, 2010 3:38 pm

Has anyone come up with a list of suggested parts to replace while the engine is out ?
I'm thinking of the following, given that the turbo is being swapped for a recon one at the same time :

gaskets: exhaust manifold, exh-turbo, turbo outlet
turbo oil pipes
turbo water pipes
hoses - especially the two long ones at the back of the engine (reliant specific ? )
engine mounts (Craig reccomends)
gearbox mount (Craig says not neccessary)
orange rubber seal on over-engine air pipe
starter motor (if a new one can be found cheaply) (mine works fine.....) (looks awkward to do with engine in situ)
swap rusty old bolts for new
somewhere I saw talk of longer exhaust manifold studs ???

clean up everything while I can get at it



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Re: 1800Ti engine removal

Post by CNHSS1 » Wed Nov 03, 2010 3:56 pm

gaskets: exhaust manifold, exh-turbo, turbo outlet only use genuine Nissan gaskets, accept NOTHING else. Ensure surfaces are perfect. There a thread (possibly a sticky?) in SS1 section. Dont be tempted by pattern gaskets or you will do the horrible job twice

turbo oil pipes rubber drain pipe to sump is unavailable and shaped in such a way as not possible with straight rubber bent. would need a couple or three 90 deg bends and starights with joints (potential failure points). If original is in good nick, id re-use. ive had a braided oil feed pipe split on a high mileage road car, luckily at idle on teh drive, weeped onto exh manifold and clouds of smoke! its a funny shape and size fittings, QRG or GW only. If made up by hose supplier, there wont be abundy pipe section, so the braided will be right near exh housing, unlikely to survive as long as original, id try QRG & Walkers first for sure

turbo water pipes if they are undamaged re-use. They like the oildrain and feed hoses, are Reliant specific, slightly different than Nissan so replacements will be difficult. Non std hoses could be made up of course
hoses - especially the two long ones at the back of the engine (reliant specific ? ) heater supply hose?

engine mounts (Craig reccomends)

gearbox mount (Craig says not neccessary) unless knackered of course :lol:

orange rubber seal on over-engine air pipe easy job to replace on car, wouldnt bother unless its shot

starter motor (if a new one can be found cheaply) (mine works fine.....) (looks awkward to do with engine in situ) 1hrs work engine in, but you will sacrifice knuckle skin...

swap rusty old bolts for new a given

somewhere I saw talk of longer exhaust manifold studs ??? check head to exh manifold studs are tight in the head and not stripped. If any question, remove and replace with quality replacements, not Halfords efforts. Note shoudl be metric fine pitch, i use local engine shop to source. The heads drilled and tapped deepr as std than the shorty studs used. Longer thread engagement will reduce likelhood of stripped threads (common to the nissans as well as scimitars).
If stripped, simply helicoil, easy peasy with engine out, not so easy, but possible when engine in chassis


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Re: 1800Ti engine removal

Post by CNHSS1 » Wed Nov 03, 2010 3:58 pm

unless the clutch is near new, a clutch kit? use the one for the later S13 200SX twin cam, direct swap and will see good side of 200hp before any issues, or many more miles than std if used at normal power levels. Same sort of money too. Nick Hall and i think Littlechicken posted up part numbers for the LuK version


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Re: 1800Ti engine removal

Post by scimjim » Wed Nov 03, 2010 5:34 pm

there are two types of starter I believe - one is longer and won't come out unless you remove the oil filter :twisted:

also replace fuel lines - all of them.


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Re: 1800Ti engine removal

Post by petesilcock » Wed Nov 03, 2010 6:05 pm

Slightly off subject but a couple of musts if fitting an unknown 2nd hand engine

1. Drop sump and check big and main bearings. Bigs at least I would replace whatever they look like
2. Head off and pop the pistons to check rings - any question then hone and re - ring
3. Valve guide rubber seals and grind in valves.


Pete


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Re: 1800Ti engine removal

Post by geoffp67 » Wed Nov 03, 2010 6:24 pm

some good points made, thanks all, keep them coming :D

I'm fitting a 6000-mile engine with a recon turbo.

Presumably the clutch is also a 6000-mile item, so I'm getting a new clutch release bearing from local motor factor for £25+vat, they say its bluebird rather than silvia, will let you all know.......

I agree with the general advice - cheaper gaskets are rubbish, I've seen some, even the not-so-cheap such as conceptua tuning aren't a patch on the nissan ones, given the time involved its just not worth skimping here

Im having a problem getting the gearbox and engine to mate, cant get the last inch to close, could it be that I'm doing something wrong, am missing a vital piece of information (again), or have a different clutch or flywheel on the newer engine ? The engine was one of GWs new-old-stock ones, clutch unknown provenance but wont have been cheap. Perhaps I need the later clutch release bearing ?

thanks !! Geoff



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