1800Ti engine removal

Have you documented a Scimitar related procedure and would like to share it with others? Pictures are most welcome!
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1800Ti engine removal

Post by philhoward » Sun May 17, 2009 11:23 am

for engine removal, don't strip the exhaust or inlet side at all, only remove the downpipe at the tubo elbow casting (square 4 stud pattern).
remove bonnet by using a paint marker to draw around the pair of metal brackets relative to the grp bonnet and also each of the 4 nuts too. then adjustment shoulnt be required when the new engines in place, just refit the bonnet to the paint marker marks!
remove earth from near dipstick, water cooling pipes to rad at block/thermostat housing (leave turbo water pipes in place), remove gearlever. if mk1 gearbox its a horizintal cotter pin and circlip from memory) if a mk2 box, remove large round internal clip holding cream nylon pivot ball retainer in place. don't remove propshaft. don't remove wiring to reverse light switches etc yet. remove throttle cable, both fuel pipe from filter at injector rail and return to tank at rail.
remove injector wiring loom coonectors and various water temp sensor connectors. remove m:ain coil king lead only. remove corrugated trunk hose to turbo casting inlet.
remove front crossmember.
hire engine hoist with very long jib (van/taxi version ideal).
either cover rad with sheet of wood or remove rad (or you will wreck it, sods law!)
remove gearbox Y cover plate and speedo cable. remove 4 x bolts that hold gearbox plate into chassis (dont remove the rubber mount, leave it on the plate.

attach crane to engine hoist brackets and get at least two of you on the job.
slacken and remove the central nut for the engine mount either side (leave oval plates attached to main mounting brackets.
raise engine a few inches, giving clearance near steering column, and remove alternator plug, starter main lead and solenoid lead. easier to do with a few inches of clearance. also may give more room for the 'knock' sensor which is located underneath the inlet manifold, screwed into the block at approx cylinders 3&4. it has a 'squeeze release' connector, so with the engine raised a bit you can usually see it or at least get at it enough to remove without having to evolve a third elbow or 18" fingers.
then one person under the car with a large lever to lever the gearbox mount plate forward. once freed, then raise engine till bellhousing hits top of tunnel and pull engine hoist back on the rollers. keep raising a bit, pull engine back, raise a bit, then undo the gearbox wiring conns (again easier with more clearance).
then sump usually hits a crossme:ber about now, so keep repeating the up a bit, back a bit until its cllear of the crossmember and steering rack. person under the car nees to guide the box as the engine will sit tail down. bit heavy but do-able.
raise sump up high enough to clear nose and 2nd person keep gearbox tail level to reduce oil loss from the box.

once out, swap the turbo manifold over on the floor, sooooo much easier than in the car.

as all Haynes manuals say, re- assembly is the reverse procedure!
just note that the under car person needs to guide the gearbox mount plate back in and attach the wiring during the process and also line up the prop splines to push the prop back in.

Content (including spelling mistakes/bad punctuation) courtesy of CNHSS1..Speedo cable inserted into procedure by philhoward


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Post by CNHSS1 » Sun May 17, 2009 11:43 am

was written from my pda whilst on the hoof to help out a forum member, so apologies for bad spelling mR Phul HoWeird... :wink:

also forgot the 'remove battery leads' caveat too


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Post by philhoward » Sun May 17, 2009 11:46 am

Excused....

Whats Raz broken now?


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Post by Nick » Mon May 18, 2009 9:37 am

Having had the engine out twice in a year I can confirm the procedure!

The only thing I would add is to remove the propshaft before replacement. Lining up "in situ" is tricky.


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Post by Raz987 » Wed May 20, 2009 7:34 pm

philhoward wrote:Excused....

Whats Raz broken now?
Funny you should mention that... :roll:
Think I might have a bottom end "death rattle"...


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Post by Littlechicken » Wed May 20, 2009 7:44 pm

I have copied this and I am Laminating it, so I don't miss anything :D



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Post by Raz987 » Fri May 22, 2009 2:53 pm

Roughly how long does an engine out take you Phil?


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Post by scimjim » Fri May 22, 2009 7:45 pm

I took a weekend to take it out this time Raz (3 weeks ago) - not rushing, on my own and working about 5 hours each day.


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Post by philhoward » Sat May 23, 2009 8:59 pm

Raz987 wrote:Roughly how long does an engine out take you Phil?
Depends on the engine....Craig would ask how long it takes me to put one back in...

I usually assign a full weekend for an engine swap - and if Saturday goes well, then I have a lie-in on a Sunday. Usually a day will get it 95% sorted although snapped manifold bolts can add a few hours to things based on experience. On the Rooster rebuild, I think it was about 5-6 hours all told for the swap and half of that was on the turbo & manifold.

2 people can do one in less that half the time - usually!


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Post by CNHSS1 » Sun May 24, 2009 8:52 am

on the racer, I usually de-plumb on a friday night after work rolling car into the workshop at work at 6pm (remove all wiring, remove induction piping and exhaust downpipe, drop water etc, remove gearlever and engine/gearbox mount bolts) usally takes approx 3hrs. saturday 9AM pull engine and box out, on floor by 10.30. do whatever work, usually gearbox change in my case :roll: then back in chassis. cars usually running by mid afternoon


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Post by scimmy ben » Sun May 24, 2009 11:15 am

Craig, most of the nuts and bolts on your car expect to be taken apart, Raz has bolts that have become married to the chassis they have been there for so long :D



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Post by CNHSS1 » Sun May 24, 2009 11:41 am

:lol: yeah you might be right. I've changed most of the nuts and bolts (non stressed) to stainless to ensure they will come apart easily and cut down thread lengths so you don't have to undo excess too. ceratinly being apart regularly does pay dividends


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Post by geoffp67 » Sun Nov 29, 2009 1:34 pm

Is it best to pull the gearbox out at the same time ?
I'm planning to do an engine swap, with new clutch, had assumed I should leave the 'box in situ.



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Post by Raz987 » Sun Nov 29, 2009 1:59 pm

geoffp67 wrote:Is it best to pull the gearbox out at the same time ?
Yes :)


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Post by geoffp67 » Sun Nov 29, 2009 2:27 pm

why :?:



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