Clueless1 SS1

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Clueless1
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We have lift off!!

Post by Clueless1 » Sat Dec 29, 2018 5:50 pm

Oh, I forgot to ask, is there a reason the engine bay is painted black and not body colour? I painted my GTEs inner wings to match and it looked much better!


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We have lift off!!

Post by scimjim » Sat Dec 29, 2018 8:34 pm

It’s a heatproof paint - I’ve painted Megan body coloured as per later SST/Sabres.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Clueless1
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Clueless1 SS1

Post by Clueless1 » Sun Jan 13, 2019 2:14 pm

Hi, I’m in the process of taking out the engine and gearbox of my 1600. My problem is that the two rear gearbox bolts won’t undo, they are just turning. I can just about reach the back of them but can’t feel a bolt head. Is there another way of removing them? I can’t get nut splitters on them, or attack them with the angle grinder! There’s no room. Help!!


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Gearbox rear mounting

Post by scimjim » Sun Jan 13, 2019 3:03 pm

1/4” drive handle will fit in there with a 3” extension or long reach 13mm socket. If they’re really seized you need to disconnect the rubber mount from the metal mounting - 2 x 13mm nuts and bolts - the top can be covered in oil and debris.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

Clueless1
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Gearbox rear mounting

Post by Clueless1 » Sun Jan 13, 2019 4:22 pm

So there are tops to them!! They must be covered in crud. Rain stopped play this afternoon so will have to have a go in the week. I’ve split the engine and box but can’t separate them enough to lift the engine out. If I drop the gearbox rear bracket I’m hoping that I can lift the engine out by itself, then the box and prop after. Only doing it that way as a I don’t have an engine hoist so it’s good old muscle power....and plenty of deep heat for the next few days 😂


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Gearbox rear mounting

Post by scimjim » Sun Jan 13, 2019 5:41 pm

Ah, so you’re trying to remove the rubber mount and not the chassis mount - the 4 bolts on the latter are sometimes easier.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

Clueless1
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Gearbox rear mounting

Post by Clueless1 » Sun Jan 13, 2019 6:29 pm

I tried those but the second one rounded off. When the box is out and I can turn the chassis over I can attack them easier. It’s the rear rubber mount that I need to disconnect so that the rear of the box can drop slightly, or come out with the engine if it has to.


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Gearbox rear mounting

Post by Alan SS1 » Sun Jan 13, 2019 6:36 pm

Clueless1 wrote:
Sun Jan 13, 2019 6:29 pm
I tried those but the second one rounded off. When the box is out and I can turn the chassis over I can attack them easier. It’s the rear rubber mount that I need to disconnect so that the rear of the box can drop slightly, or come out with the engine if it has to.
or grind the head off the spinning bolt? but watch out as teh petrol pipe is tucked upp in there and it's nylon so don't get too much sparks/lumps metal flying at it :shock:


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Clueless1
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Gearbox rear mounting

Post by Clueless1 » Sun Jan 13, 2019 9:05 pm

There’s no problem about setting anything on fire.... I’m down to a rolling chassis! I can’t get in with a grinder or a nut splitter. I will try to get to the top of the bolts sometime this week. If not it looks like cutting the bracket and looking for a replacement.


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Gearbox rear mounting

Post by b.c.flat hat » Sun Jan 13, 2019 9:42 pm

Don't know if it will help or if you have access but another way of removing nuts is to drill down one side of the nut, parallel to the bolt, then chisel down the hole to split and widen it. Best o' luck, Crusty.



Clueless1
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Gearbox rear mounting

Post by Clueless1 » Sun Jan 13, 2019 10:07 pm

I never thought of that! I wasn’t sure if they were captive bolts in the mounting that had broken loose, with not being able to feel the other side. I will be replacing the mount anyway.
Thanks everyone, I’ll keep you posted.


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Clueless1
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Clueless1 SS1

Post by Clueless1 » Mon Feb 11, 2019 7:56 pm

Lifted the engine out today, more oil on the outside than the inside...and it’s cleaner!
Can’t wait to strip it down but I need to finish taking the bits off the chassis first. The top wishbone bolt turns ok but the thick washers have rusted themselves onto it. Lots of releasing fluid, Plusgas, have been used over the last few weeks but they’re still solid. Any ideas?
What gauge steel should I use to strengthen the wishbones and trailing arms? I intend to make the bits and have them welded on, it’s been a very long time since I wielded
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a welder 😂


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Out it comes!

Post by AJL Electronics » Mon Feb 11, 2019 8:41 pm

They can be a bit of a pain. Can you make a well with modelling clay for the release agent? You could try something a bit thicker too, diesel or my favourite ATF and Acetone mix. Then it is a matter of some tapping with a hammer and trying to move it either way until it starts to yield. Some just need cutting off unfortunately.


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Clueless1
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Out it comes!

Post by Clueless1 » Mon Feb 11, 2019 9:51 pm

What colour was the engine block originally? I know the sump was/is black and the head is alloy.


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Out it comes!

Post by scimjim » Mon Feb 11, 2019 9:56 pm

Unpainted as far as I’m aware.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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