Clueless1 SS1

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Clueless1
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1600 cvh

Post by Clueless1 » Wed Oct 31, 2018 1:47 pm

Oh well, I could always sell it to offset some of the cost!


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scimjim
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1600 cvh

Post by scimjim » Wed Oct 31, 2018 5:34 pm

Alan SS1 wrote:
Wed Oct 31, 2018 12:44 pm
scimjim wrote:
Tue Oct 30, 2018 10:29 pm
Sounds like it’s probably out of an XR2 originally - standard SS1 exhaust will bolt straight up.
would that not depend on the design of the 4-2-1 ??? ie how far down under the sump the 2-1 part was . . . . some had a twin pipe running down front of block and only became 'one' at sump level (in XR3 version)
You misunderstand - like Richard I have an XR 4-2-1 and it’s a massive job to make any of it fit - just use the original manifold and exhaust.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Clueless1
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1600 cvh

Post by Clueless1 » Wed Oct 31, 2018 5:49 pm

I understand, I could sell the 4-2-1 manifold to offset the cost. Thanks everyone.


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Alan SS1
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1600 cvh

Post by Alan SS1 » Thu Nov 01, 2018 12:37 pm

scimjim wrote:
Wed Oct 31, 2018 5:34 pm
Alan SS1 wrote:
Wed Oct 31, 2018 12:44 pm
scimjim wrote:
Tue Oct 30, 2018 10:29 pm
Sounds like it’s probably out of an XR2 originally - standard SS1 exhaust will bolt straight up.
would that not depend on the design of the 4-2-1 ??? ie how far down under the sump the 2-1 part was . . . . some had a twin pipe running down front of block and only became 'one' at sump level (in XR3 version)
You misunderstand - like Richard I have an XR 4-2-1 and it’s a massive job to make any of it fit - just use the original manifold and exhaust.
Jim , my original post was just making clear that the only thing that would fit is the gasket :shock: , ie as you say 'use the manifold from SS1' :D


SS1 1600 (AJZ ----), Regal 330 (VAV ---), C30 (SK 57 ---)& 480 (EVU ---)

unclebob1951
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1600 cvh

Post by unclebob1951 » Fri Nov 09, 2018 2:03 pm

I've got it! My engine is tired, with low compression on no.1 cylinder, and I thought this might save me some cost and bother. On rolling road it was putting out 70 horses vs. original 95.

Dizzy is at the back. I will sell on the gearbox, sump and exhaust manifold, and the rocker cover as I already have a Sierra 1.8 one.

Not sure about carb setup. Any advice on preference for my standard carb vs. tldm xr2 28/32 that came with it? Spark plugs were quite sooty, so some work probably needed to tune it.


Bob Powell
SS1 1.6 1985
Former SE6a owner

unclebob1951
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1600 cvh

Post by unclebob1951 » Sat Nov 17, 2018 3:09 pm

FYI, took the head off and it's a lean burn one. Bottom end looks good, but will now have to think about swapping hemi head and pistons from old engine, with new rings. Everything I read says lean burn head loses about 5 horses. How tough are big ends and mains on these engines? Am i likely to need to change those?


Bob Powell
SS1 1.6 1985
Former SE6a owner

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Headlamps

Post by PeteScim » Fri Nov 23, 2018 4:33 pm

whats the best upgrade our are not very bright



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Post by philhoward » Fri Nov 23, 2018 4:37 pm

Relays.


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Headlamps

Post by Coupe Racing » Fri Nov 23, 2018 5:07 pm

Check for a good earth


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Post by philhoward » Fri Nov 23, 2018 5:12 pm

td99 got a significant improvement on his by simply fitting relays to the dipped beam circuit.


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Headlamps

Post by td99 » Fri Nov 23, 2018 6:37 pm

philhoward wrote:
Fri Nov 23, 2018 5:12 pm
td99 got a significant improvement on his by simply fitting relays to the dipped beam circuit.
Yes see http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/view ... f=4&t=4632

I also fitted Bi-Xenon lamps but that was an incredible fiddle due to headlamp movement. LED woud be much more attractive now.


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Heater insides

Post by Clueless1 » Sat Dec 22, 2018 5:19 pm

Having stripped down the heater from my SS1 I’ve found that the foam from the inside has turned to dust! Where can I buy some from that will be ok? I take it that it’s normal for the back plate to be quite rusty, to the point of having a few ‘air holes’ in. I’ve derusted it and given it a coat of etch primer then hammerited it.
Cheers, a Nigel.


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Heater insides

Post by scimjim » Sat Dec 22, 2018 7:16 pm

I have several on the shelf - most of the foam has gone but not all of them are rusty.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Heater insides

Post by AJL Electronics » Sat Dec 22, 2018 8:05 pm

Standard 6mm closed cell foam and spray adhesive (high temperature) is what you need.


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We have lift off!!

Post by Clueless1 » Sat Dec 29, 2018 5:49 pm

Yes! Eventually after all the bad weather I have lifted the body tub off the chassis today, with a lot of help from a neighbour and numerous big bits of wood. God did they use loads of ‘cement’ to stick it on with! A 3 metre length of wood levering against the front tyre eventually shifted the n/s. Now to remove the engine and box 😁
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