Removing SE6a/b Front and Rear Bumpers

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murgers
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Removing SE6a/b Front and Rear Bumpers

Post by murgers » Wed May 04, 2011 10:55 pm

I had to do this myself recently following a crash and ended up pretty confused as to what should and shouldn't be removed. After some of the usual good advise from the experts on here I managed it successfully.I thought I would share what I did in the hope of helping someone else. If your bumpers have never been off before this will not be an easy task. When I removed my rear bumper, seven of the eight bolts were so rusted they just snapped once I got enough force on them, the last one completely rounded-off and had to be ground/drilled out.

Removing the rear Bumper

This is much easier than the front as it "basically" just involves the removal of eight bolts.

1) Disconnect the rear fog lights and clear the wires passing between the body and the bumper.

2) Disconnect the earthing bolt attaching some wiring at the passenger side to the chassis and clear this from the body/ bumper join too.

3) Detach the wiring for the number plate lights. These simply pass through two small holes in the body directly into two push connectors in the rear loom, just slightly out of sight.

4) Expend sweat and blood attempting to remove all eight bolts pictured below. If you can get your rear light clusters out this can make getting to 3 and 6 easier. I could only get one out.

[album]505[/album][album]507[/album]

Removing the Front Bumper

1) Remove the Spare wheel, Headlights and grill.

2) Remove the 7 Bolts, pictured below, attaching the bumper to the body.

[album]502[/album][album]506[/album]

Bolts 3,4, and 5 pass through the front cross member, body and into the bumper and are pretty easy to get at with the spare wheel out.
Bolts 2 and 6 and just behind the main headlights and are also pretty easy to get at,
Bolts 1 and 7 are awkward because they are behind the blower fans but you shouldn't have to remove them (the fans) completely, just move them to one side.

You now have to release the metalwork under the bonnet that is holding the bumper in place.

3) Remove the 6 bolts connecting the spare wheel support plate (pictured below)

[album]504[/album]

4) Remove the radiator (apparently you don't necessarily have to do this but if you don't I'm sure you'll struggle later)

5) Remove the four captive bolts connecting the 'a' frame to the chassis. (one side is pictured below, same on the other side). Please note this picture is taken after the removal of the bolts, cross member and fan bar so the 'a' frame wont be located quite where it is in this picture (in fact most of the 'a' frame on the pictured side is underneath the battery tray). The lower bolt on the other side is underneath the lower pipe from the radiator which is why I would suggest you remove it.

[album]503[/album]

6) Remove the captive bolts holding the front cross member and the fan supporting bar to the 'a' frame.

7) The 'a' frame should now be loose allowing you to collapse it inwards and free the bumper.

To refit I would recommend you bolt the bumper in place first with bolts 1,2,6 and 7 then bolt the metalwork back in position.

I would highly recommend buying some Stainless steel nuts, bolts and penny washers from eBay for refitting both the front and back bumpers. I got M8x35mm (13mm heads) nuts and bolts and M8x30mm penny washers and they worked perfectly.

I hope this helps somebody. If anything isn't clear or i have missed anything feel free to post and I'll amend the initial post.



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Re: Removing SE6a/b Front and Rear Bumpers

Post by scimjim » Thu May 05, 2011 6:21 am

excellent "how-to" Murgers. Worth saying that if your blower motors haven't been out - take the opportunity to remove and refurbish :-)


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Re: Removing SE6a/b Front and Rear Bumpers

Post by ScimmyMike » Thu May 05, 2011 11:36 am

Great timing as well as I'm about to start the body resto pre paint of my 6b, cheers for the great info, just hope the bolts come out reasonably easily, front will cause the mumber unit was replaced 4 years ago, the rears might spend a week or so coated in release fluid first though
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Re: Removing SE6a/b Front and Rear Bumpers

Post by scimjim » Thu May 05, 2011 12:25 pm

ScimmyMike wrote:front will cause the mumber unit was replaced 4 years ago,
hmm......trying to work out if I need to replace my mumber unit? :-)


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Re: Removing SE6a/b Front and Rear Bumpers

Post by AJL Electronics » Thu May 05, 2011 2:13 pm

Depends on the amperage I suppose :-)


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Re: Removing SE6a/b Front and Rear Bumpers

Post by ScimmyMike » Thu May 05, 2011 3:20 pm

what you mean you've never replaced it? ooo the fairy's will be after you


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Re: Removing SE6a/b Front and Rear Bumpers

Post by Jimbob » Tue May 17, 2011 1:52 pm

I have an 81 GTC. Is this the same rear bumper that fits the rear of an SE6A?



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Re: Removing SE6a/b Front and Rear Bumpers

Post by Roger Pennington » Tue May 17, 2011 2:17 pm

No - the rear bumper on the GTC extends forward on each side, as far as the rear wheelarch, whereas the GTE ones don't. That said, I don't know how much difference that makes to the actual attachment to the car - I guess most of the bolts are going to be much the same?


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Re: Removing SE6a/b Front and Rear Bumpers

Post by Corky » Tue May 17, 2011 2:39 pm

GTC bumper fixings are as above, but the extended side pieces have bolts encapsulated in the GRP. The chrome trims and rubber insert are the same as the GTE. Are you looking for a replacement GTC bumper ? If so, they are as rare as hens teeth. The only way forward is to repair them, which is quite easy even if you just have a collection pieces.


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Re: Removing SE6a/b Front and Rear Bumpers

Post by greeny » Tue May 17, 2011 2:52 pm

Depending on how bad the on you take off is i have a spair with only one small hole in it ( but having said that if i sell you can bet you back side some one will rear end me ) but if one is neaded send a message as its just taking up space in the kitten.


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Re: Removing SE6a/b Front and Rear Bumpers

Post by daleywhaley » Tue May 17, 2011 2:56 pm

Thanks for the advise. I have a bit of a ding in the crome of my rear bumper, any tips on how to tap it out? Will the chrome simply flake off in the process?


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Re: Removing SE6a/b Front and Rear Bumpers

Post by Corky » Tue May 17, 2011 3:04 pm

greeny wrote:Depending on how bad the on you take off is i have a spair with only one small hole in it ( but having said that if i sell you can bet you back side some one will rear end me ) but if one is neaded send a message as its just taking up space in the kitten.
With your track record for bumpers I know what I'd do :lol:


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Re: Removing SE6a/b Front and Rear Bumpers

Post by Roger Pennington » Tue May 17, 2011 3:18 pm

daleywhaley wrote:Thanks for the advise. I have a bit of a ding in the crome of my rear bumper, any tips on how to tap it out? Will the chrome simply flake off in the process?
It's not chrome, it's anodised aluminium. This means that if you remove it from the bumper (you'll have to remove the bumper from the car for that, then drill-out the rivets), you should be able to knock it out with a hammer and dolly. However any marks left behind will need to be polised out, and that's going to remove the anodising. That means that you will need to polish the whole piece to make it match, and unless you can re-anodise it it's going to need polising frequently. Steve did try this IIRC, I think there's something in his project thread?


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Re: Removing SE6a/b Front and Rear Bumpers

Post by scimmy_man » Tue May 17, 2011 5:42 pm

easier to replace the ally part, or polish all 3 - 6.


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Re: Removing SE6a/b Front and Rear Bumpers

Post by GTC Ian » Mon Jun 27, 2011 2:45 pm

Just done my bumpers. Worth taking the blowers out completely. Found mine had been refitted incorrectly on one side ie. no mesh ,only one rubber mount holding it in place and the extension piece was missing so it was chucking all manner of rubbish into the car. The other side was the same and the casing was broken. Also some nerd who removed the bumper the last time had cut the old bolts out with an angle grinder. Guess what; slots through to the wheel arches.
Re fitted mine using stainless bolts ( you dont know when it has come off again) with larger brass washers and renewed the bullet connectors and fitted an earthing block that goes back to the battery. Since Ive done this I can get all lights working for the first time in 7 years.


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