Removing Dim Dip on a small sports the clean way

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Re: Removing Dim Dip on a small sports the clean way

Post by scimjim » Sun Jan 13, 2013 9:11 pm

Mateybass - can I have permission to copy your text and pictures into the scimi-wiki please?


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Re: Removing Dim Dip on a small sports the clean way

Post by Mateybass » Mon Jan 14, 2013 2:23 am

As far as I understand it, aux lamps, or auxiliary driving lamps to give them their full name are wired to supplement the full beam only and, as quite rightly pointed out, need a beam pattern of an ADL to be of any use. Fog lamps are wired to be independent of the headlamp beam status. My "fog lamps" appear to have a beam pattern of an ADL and as such my SST may not be the only one with aux lamps wired as fogs ( I will check the part number in daylight). Whether Reliant used up old ADL stock before changing the lamp to a fog pattern later on is highly probable IMO :)

scimjim wrote:Mateybass - can I have permission to copy your text and pictures into the scimi-wiki please?
All members can use the information as they see fit, so yes. Send all royalty cheques to my agent :mrgreen:
Ben Kenobe wrote:The headlights come on but they don't lift unless the ignition is on, I also did a nighttime test and R7 isn't involved because the lights are on and stay on during the lift, they too will come on with no ignition.
R7 gets its information from the lift motors i.e. the R7 "inhibit" coil is energised during the lift process by the same 12v signal that energises the lift motor relay (located near the motor itself, not in the fuse box).

If your pods are lifting but the lamps are lit during this phase, then the connection from the lift motor (green wire) to R7/coil is open circuit or the relay R7 isn't working. You should have 12v at the coil of R7 during the lift or lower process and 0v at all other times. If your headlights come on without ignition on by switching the lights switch to headlamp position, then relay R3 has a permanent 12v supply to the coil (brown wire) rather than being on the ignition circuit (white wire)... or the relay R3 is stuck on. They should only come on with the pull-to-flash (SST and "fog-lamped" Sabre) without ignition on .

If anyone's interested, operationally the headlamp raise and lower sequence goes like this...

switch lights on,
12v energises the lift relay R4.
R4 switches 12v via F7 on contacts 30/87 through the lift motor "raise" diode to energise the coil of the lift motor relay R5, and also to energise coil of R7 (filament inhibit relay) to stop the lamps being lit during the raise process. (this is the bit missing on yours BK)
Energised R5 switches 12v on contacts 30/87, supplied via fuse F7 and the headlamp reset switch, to the lift motor which turns to raise the pod.
The lift motor turns until the pod is in upright position where cams break contacts and break the circuit to de-energise R5, whereby the voltage to the motor drops out. The motor coil is earthed on both sides now by de-energised R5 via contacts 30/87a to act as a parking brake to stop the pods dropping from driving vibration. Voltage drops out at R7 coil and the lamps light up.
Raise process has ended.

R4 remains energised until the lights are switched off....

Switch lights off, lamps extinguish.
0v at R4 coil, R4 de-energised.
12v supplied via F7 on R4 contacts 30/87a through the lift motor "lower" diode to energise the coil of the lift motor relay R5. (N.B. R7 no longer has a role to play as, although it will be energised at this point, there is no supply to the filaments so the lamps will be off.)
Energised R5 switches 12v on contacts 30/87, supplied via fuse F7 and the headlamp reset switch, to the lift motor which turns to lower the pod.
The lift motor turns until the pod is in lowered position where cams break contacts and break the circuit to de-energise R5, whereby the voltage to the motor drops out. The motor coil is earthed on both sides now by de-energised R5 via contacts 30/87a to act as a parking brake to stop the pods moving from driving vibration.
Lower process has ended.


1991 Reliant Scimitar SST 1400 number 39 - Skippy's Facebook Page
1999 Subaru Forester S-Turbo Auto (LT)


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Re: Removing Dim Dip on a small sports the clean way

Post by scimjim » Mon Jan 14, 2013 10:10 am

Thanks - done (here for future reference).

I'll copy the guide above too - can you write one for the "pull to flash" aux lights option?


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Re: Removing Dim Dip on a small sports the clean way

Post by Mateybass » Tue Jan 15, 2013 12:53 am

scimjim wrote:can you write one for the "pull to flash" aux lights option?
I've created the method already in post #14 in this thread but without a full set of pics. Use this if needs be until I have pics :)


1991 Reliant Scimitar SST 1400 number 39 - Skippy's Facebook Page
1999 Subaru Forester S-Turbo Auto (LT)


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