PAS tie rod/steering arm removal ?

PlasticMan · Post by **PlasticMan** » Tue Jul 09, 2019 7:12 pm

Hello again, I went to replace the steering rack bellows but found the lock nut seized in place. I unwound the track rod end and then cut off the old bellows.

The old lock nut has seized to the steering arm. I tried securing the arm with molegrips but the steering arm is too smooth and they just don't grip (a bit surprised there are no flat sections?). Any way I then decided to remove the steering arm but couldn't work out how.

: IMG_20190708_213634321.jpg (89.28 KiB) Viewed 302 times

I expected the ball jointed end to be shaped to accept a large spanner but it isnt?
Any advice gratefully received !

Post by **Roger Pennington** » Tue Jul 09, 2019 7:28 pm

AFAIK the rack end is retained by a peened-over locking pin, which I think has to be drilled out? Then you have to reset the preload and drill a new hole for a new pin afterwards?
Might be easier to try these stretchy neoprene gaiters from bailcast. May be worth trying a forum search to find the right size, as I'm sure they've been mentioned before?

PlasticMan · Post by **PlasticMan** » Tue Jul 09, 2019 7:35 pm

Thanks Roger I suspected it wouldn't be straight forward! The stretchy gator idea is good but I really want to free the nut as the tracking is suspect . I think I will bathe the end in oil and maybe purchase some newer grips, possibly crack out the blow torch....

Post by **scimjim** » Tue Jul 09, 2019 7:44 pm

Do you have stilsons? They grip tube much better than molegrips.

Post by **Roger Pennington** » Tue Jul 09, 2019 7:44 pm

Yes, another alternative would be to cut very carefully through the nut and split it off

Post by **Oldconn** » Tue Jul 09, 2019 7:51 pm

Roger is absolutely right about removing the tie-rod from the inner balljoint. I did it about six months ago, following advice from Mark gtcse8.

Post by **Terry H** » Tue Jul 09, 2019 7:54 pm

Sounds like yo need to put some heat to the nut and then use a Freeze and ease spray. It may help to get two nuts on the thread and lock them up first to give you some where to put another spanner.
Regards Terry H

Post by **Roger Pennington** » Tue Jul 09, 2019 7:57 pm

Oldconn wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 09, 2019 7:51 pm
Roger is absolutely right about removing the tie-rod from the inner balljoint. I did it about six months ago, following advice from Mark gtcse8.

I've fortunately not had to do it myself, but I did see my brother do it on one of his Capris, which used the same system, and it seemed rather a PITA.....

Post by **Oldconn** » Tue Jul 09, 2019 10:07 pm

A lot depends on how the rack was drilled initially. If you are lucky, the locking pin will be visible with the rack on the car, and may be drilled out in situ. Otherwise, the rack will have to be taken out of the car to be worked on. I will try to find the earlier thread which includes the conversation with Mark - but not tonight, it's past my bedtime!

PlasticMan · Post by **PlasticMan** » Tue Jul 09, 2019 10:07 pm

Thanks chaps, some useful ideas, the arm is currently soaking in oil. New mole grips are on the way but I might dig out my stilsons....

Post by **Roger Pennington** » Tue Jul 09, 2019 11:39 pm

Oldconn wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 09, 2019 10:07 pm
I will try to find the earlier thread which includes the conversation with Mark - but not tonight, it's past my bedtime!

This thread perhaps?

Post by **Coupe Racing** » Wed Jul 10, 2019 4:28 am

Why not cut through the nut and split it.
Any sign of heat is likely to be an MOT fail

Post by **Oldconn** » Wed Jul 10, 2019 7:50 am

Roger Pennington wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 09, 2019 11:39 pm

Oldconn wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 09, 2019 10:07 pm
I will try to find the earlier thread which includes the conversation with Mark - but not tonight, it's past my bedtime!
This thread perhaps?

Yes, that's it. Quite clear when you have the rack in front of you.
Another point about heat - there is a risk that you will melt the plastic cup which is inside the balljoint ? Just use a nut-splitter .

Post by **gtcse8** » Wed Jul 10, 2019 8:25 am

Use the Two hammer method to free off the nut IF it will not come free,

Rest one flat of the nut against the largest hammer and hit the other side with the other hammer, just like using an Anvil.
Rotate the rod a few degrees and repeat.
The shock will free the nut unless the threads have galled up inside, in which case just splitting it will remove it.
The thread is M14 x2mm.

The large boss that the ball end is within has a hole drilled in to accept a C spanner for adjustment, it`s actually visible in your picture.
Not that most of the monkeys who have worked on some of the racks I have fixed use the correct equipment to dismantle.

Stilson damage seems to be all over most racks by now.

The

PlasticMan · Post by **PlasticMan** » Wed Jul 10, 2019 8:06 pm

The two hammer method sounds good, I have a nice selection of hammers shame not to abuse them! Otherwise I may go down the nut splitter route.

Also after reading the comments the blow torch won't be touched.