Cooling Fan

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Post by mark rudder » Sun Aug 19, 2018 12:28 am

Thanks Roger, that makes sense & backs up photo evidence.
No pressure for the radiator bloke, I'll just tell him the header tanks
are uniquie in Australia & can't be replaced!
When done i'll post how/if this worked & some photos.


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Current GTE 6B, Dolomite Sprint, Scirocco R. Past XJS (manual), V12 E-type (manual, convertible, lovely) 350 chev XJ6, TR6, TR4, Sprite, Midget, local Ford V8s, others... There's a pattern here.….

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Post by Oxymoron » Mon Aug 20, 2018 5:35 pm

Just bought the fan kit at Scimfest from Walkers which comes with proper mounting brackets.


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Post by DARK STAR » Mon Aug 20, 2018 6:48 pm

As always I remind you that you need to let the hot air OUT as well, quite small vents in the low-pressure corners of the bonnet will do the trick.
On SE6's you need to offset the holes quite a lot to avoid hinges and things, you can see the pilot hole of the outer vent behind the inner one ...
Incidentally, I have inadvertently proved that these vents work.
Yesterday I was out in the car for the first time since the Big Rain, forgot to open the vents and the fan was on almost permanently whereas it usually switches on and off regularly.
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Post by Oxymoron » Mon Aug 20, 2018 7:18 pm

I've been thinking of fitting vents to mine!....Yours look like they're out of the dash of my wife's Dacia Duster though! :D ....The hot air seems to extract through the handbrake opening on my car!
Love the colour of your car! 8)


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Post by stevecrosby63 » Mon Aug 20, 2018 7:23 pm

nice idea 8)


i'm making this up as i go along :shock:

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Post by Oxymoron » Mon Aug 20, 2018 7:32 pm

I noticed a Scimitar at Scimfest which had a louvre vented bonnet, similar to that of a Jensen SP!....Don't know if it was a metal replacement?


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Post by Roger Pennington » Mon Aug 20, 2018 10:37 pm

Alternatively, especially on a 6-on series where they are only held in by a few pop rivets, why not remove the splash shields from the wheel arches - gives you a large opening, and doesn't change the external appearance.


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Post by philipmasonfrance » Tue Aug 21, 2018 7:37 am

Oxymoron wrote:
Mon Aug 20, 2018 7:32 pm
I noticed a Scimitar at Scimfest which had a louvre vented bonnet, similar to that of a Jensen SP!....Don't know if it was a metal replacement?
That was probably a lightweight (racing) bonnet. I had one fitted to my first GTC back in the 80's. Brilliant job.



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Post by Oxymoron » Tue Aug 21, 2018 9:48 am

Roger Pennington wrote:
Mon Aug 20, 2018 10:37 pm
Alternatively, especially on a 6-on series where they are only held in by a few pop rivets, why not remove the splash shields from the wheel arches - gives you a large opening, and doesn't change the external appearance.
The splash shields are missing from my car, perhaps because of the tubular manifolds?
My previous Scimitar SE6 didn't have them either...they were in the boot when I bought it!


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Post by Roger Pennington » Tue Aug 21, 2018 12:39 pm

Oxymoron wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 9:48 am
The splash shields are missing from my car, perhaps because of the tubular manifolds?
My previous Scimitar SE6 didn't have them either...they were in the boot when I bought it!
The mulberry car has long primary tubular manifolds, and still has it's full complement of splash shields (which have not been trimmed either, only made detachable to improve access for certain jobs). :)


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Post by scmarf » Tue Aug 21, 2018 1:49 pm

I retrofitted a Citroen BX fan 'back in the day' and fitted it in the ducting using the original loom and plug - not on the radiator (which has needed changing a couple of times since). Not much chance of finding one now but the point is I measured the current flow when fitted and it was 50% higher than the original.

PS. relay fitted at the same time of course :shock: :!:

PPS. manual override switch fitted for Le Mans 2010.


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Post by scimjim » Tue Aug 21, 2018 1:56 pm

CLM 2010 was hotter than 2018 8)

bonnet vents only work at slow/no forward speed. If your cooling system is that marginal that you feel the need to cut holes in the bonnet, I’d look at that first :mrgreen:


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Post by scmarf » Tue Aug 21, 2018 2:09 pm

scimjim wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 1:56 pm
CLM 2010 was hotter than 2018 8)
bonnet vents only work at slow/no forward speed. If your cooling system is that marginal that you feel the need to cut holes in the bonnet, I’d look at that first :mrgreen:
I note Mr D Star seems to live in France which I guess means a higher ambient temperature to cope with 8)

A thought - did Reliant offer any cooling packages for towing? Oil cooler?


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Post by scimjim » Tue Aug 21, 2018 2:23 pm

The ambient temp only changes the time it takes to get up to operating temp. The stat and fan should then hold it at optimum whatever the ambient (within reason).

the fixed fan was offered as a towing pack on the 5a (in addition to the electric fan) - I don't think there was ever an engine oil cooler option.


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Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Post by DARK STAR » Tue Aug 21, 2018 5:31 pm

<<bonnet vents only work at slow/no forward speed>>

Jim, the vents are specifically in a low pressure area, they work at all speeds.
My cooling system is ok, but as noted the fan stays on much longer with the vents closed.
It's nearly 40º here during the day and with the vents open the fan is only on about half the time.


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