heater fan switch voltage

Moderators: scimjim, philhoward, erikscimitardemon, Roger Pennington, Lukeyboy46

kenfoster
RSSOC Member
Posts: 159
Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 11:57 am
Location: bucks
Has thanked: 34 times
Been thanked: 1 time

heater fan switch voltage

Post by kenfoster » Wed Jul 18, 2018 4:09 pm

Hello, I'm trying to re commission my se6a, I repaired my heater fan switch which had broken apart. The blowers won't run, I took connection off the battery and they both run, fast and slow so it's a feed problem. I can't see a relay in the circuit so I can't understand why I've only got about 1 volt at the switch wires.(switch disconnected) There are other things that don't yet work, i,e, overdrive solenoid, some of which could be on the same circuit.
Should there be 12 volts at the switch?
Any ideas please? Auto electrics is not my strong point.

ken



User avatar
peter freeman
RSSOC Member
Posts: 9213
Joined: Thu Aug 31, 2006 12:12 pm
Location: Newcastle
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 291 times
Contact:

heater fan switch voltage

Post by peter freeman » Wed Jul 18, 2018 4:25 pm

With the ignition on yes.



kenfoster
RSSOC Member
Posts: 159
Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 11:57 am
Location: bucks
Has thanked: 34 times
Been thanked: 1 time

heater fan switch voltage

Post by kenfoster » Wed Jul 18, 2018 4:40 pm

That's what I thought Peter, Where is my other 11 volts? If I could get the fuse box out from the foot well without ripping my carpet I'd check it for corrosion.
I don't have electric windows by the way.
The wipers work, as did the lights before I removed them for access to the blowers.
I've got the dimmer switch out so the wires are just loose in the footwell. Not sure if they feed the binnacle warning lights because they don't work at present.(only the flashers light up)

ken



User avatar
peter freeman
RSSOC Member
Posts: 9213
Joined: Thu Aug 31, 2006 12:12 pm
Location: Newcastle
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 291 times
Contact:

heater fan switch voltage

Post by peter freeman » Wed Jul 18, 2018 4:54 pm

The heater blowers get their power from the Ignition relay via the first fuse in the fuse box 1 and 2 15amp. If the relay were faulty you would have a lot of other things not working - I would remove the fuse clean the ends and replace it - after checking it ok of course with a meter as a visual check can confuse you if the wire looks ok in the glass but has come adrift at one end. If you need a wiring drawing this is where you will find one - https://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/~nenoggins/Wiring.htm



Ian Lock
Posts: 96
Joined: Thu Feb 01, 2018 2:51 pm
Has thanked: 20 times
Been thanked: 6 times

heater fan switch voltage

Post by Ian Lock » Wed Jul 18, 2018 4:55 pm

Hi.
The switch should have 12v supplied by a green/pink wire at pin 6 & linked to pin 3 this is from fuse No.2 (15A). This is fed to No.1 at fuse box by a white/pink wire from the Ign. relay.

Pin 8 on the switch goes to the l/h & r/h motor by green/yellow wire.

Pin 7 on the switch also goes to l/h & r/h motor by green/ grey wire.

There is also a black wire on both motors which is earth.



User avatar
philhoward
RSSOC Member
Posts: 23756
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 5:41 pm
Location: Staffs, UK
Has thanked: 40 times
Been thanked: 493 times
Contact:

heater fan switch voltage

Post by philhoward » Wed Jul 18, 2018 5:04 pm

Prime suspect is the “Ignition Control “ fuse - pull it out and check the brass ears are giving enough clamping force.


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

kenfoster
RSSOC Member
Posts: 159
Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 11:57 am
Location: bucks
Has thanked: 34 times
Been thanked: 1 time

heater fan switch voltage

Post by kenfoster » Wed Jul 18, 2018 6:33 pm

Thanks all, which one is the ignition control fuse?
I've had them all out and tested them and sprayed switch cleaner where accessible.
Cleaned all the relay spades and tried a new relay in each location.
Iv'e cleaned the earths at the blowers.(not sure where it's earthed to the frame but the multi earth point to the left of the spare wheel area looks likely)
Is there something from the ignition switch or behind the binnacle perhaps not making a good connection? Voltage regulator maybe.
Two days with no joy on this.
Regards ken



kenfoster
RSSOC Member
Posts: 159
Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 11:57 am
Location: bucks
Has thanked: 34 times
Been thanked: 1 time

heater fan switch voltage

Post by kenfoster » Thu Jul 19, 2018 11:54 am

Hi, sorry for the stupid question Phil,,,,,which is the ign control fuse? It's written on the cover. senior moment!!!
I've re checked and cleaned and sprayed fuse box with switch cleaner, and the white and pink feed from the ign relay.... still only 1.1 v
Is the circuitry on a loop as opposed to a feed from the switch to the blowers? I will clean the bullet connectors again behind the head lamps.
If I remove the 2 screws in the fuse box, can I pull it out enough to inspect for corrosion? My carpet is stuck to the kick board and I can't pull it away without tearing the carpet.
Thanks all for your input regards ken



kenfoster
RSSOC Member
Posts: 159
Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 11:57 am
Location: bucks
Has thanked: 34 times
Been thanked: 1 time

heater fan switch voltage

Post by kenfoster » Thu Jul 19, 2018 12:21 pm

I have put a meter across the blower fuse, there is 12v plus and I did the same to the white and pink feed from the Ign relay. (I used the hand brake bolt to earth.) I have 12 volts plus at both (it blew the No1 fuse, should have removed it! )
Still only 1.1v at the switch, I'm gonna clean all blower connections again and if that doesn't fix it I'm giving up.
ken



kenfoster
RSSOC Member
Posts: 159
Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 11:57 am
Location: bucks
Has thanked: 34 times
Been thanked: 1 time

heater fan switch voltage

Post by kenfoster » Thu Jul 19, 2018 3:25 pm

I give up. I've pulled all the bullet connectors apart and replaced 4.
I've now got 1.4 v at the switch. I slaved 2 earths to the blowers. Can't think of anything else unless there's something else in the circuit or the mice have chewed through the loom.
Ken



kenfoster
RSSOC Member
Posts: 159
Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 11:57 am
Location: bucks
Has thanked: 34 times
Been thanked: 1 time

heater fan switch voltage

Post by kenfoster » Thu Jul 19, 2018 3:48 pm

SOLVED...... the plug connector behind the glove box.
That was worth spending 3 days of my life.
AND.... I've still got to attach the blowers. The rubber suspension thingies have all become disbonded.
Scimmitaris crappicaris. No wonder they are becoming rare.
Ken



Rob Jones
Posts: 188
Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2013 2:17 pm
Has thanked: 6 times
Been thanked: 4 times

heater fan switch voltage

Post by Rob Jones » Thu Jul 19, 2018 4:11 pm

Hi Ken,
You have to remember, the cars where designed by a three year old child having a tantrum, anything that can be an easy job to solve can and will turn into a massively labour intensive task.
I have refurbished the blowers and all switches, the moment you disturb anything, it leads into something else.
But the joy of owning a hand built sports car :D :D
Rob..



Terry H
RSSOC Member
Posts: 2035
Joined: Fri Sep 08, 2006 4:02 pm
Location: Newport Gwent
Has thanked: 19 times
Been thanked: 34 times

heater fan switch voltage

Post by Terry H » Thu Jul 19, 2018 4:43 pm

You have to remember, the cars where designed by a three year old child having a tantrum,
I bet Tom Karen would love to read that comment
Regards Terry H
1185



Ian Lock
Posts: 96
Joined: Thu Feb 01, 2018 2:51 pm
Has thanked: 20 times
Been thanked: 6 times

heater fan switch voltage

Post by Ian Lock » Thu Jul 19, 2018 5:51 pm

I don't think he would be amused at that comment. I had the pleasure of meeting Dr. Karen when he was Chief Designer for Ogle design and his team back in early 1976 when I visited the Reliant factory as a design engineer of pneumatic tools and suppled tools to assist with the assembly of the new SE6a just before it went to market later that year.

Yes they can be difficult to trace faults in the electrics but I think it is no harder than tracing electric faults in a classic steel car.

You have to remember they used most of the parts from other car manufactures and there wasn't many fiberglass cars around in the day. Also if you bought a steel car it wouldn't last that long before it became a pile of rust.

Ian.



User avatar
ALSE6
RSSOC Member
Posts: 81
Joined: Sat Apr 18, 2015 10:25 am
Location: West Devon
Been thanked: 4 times

heater fan switch voltage

Post by ALSE6 » Fri Jul 20, 2018 5:56 pm

For the heater motor mounting rubbers (cotton reel) I used units from "Car Builder Solutions" Produced code COT19.
Cheers ..> Alan


1976 SE6 GTE. 1976 SE6a GTE. 1971 MGB-GT. 1972 TR6. 1971 Ford Zodiac MK4 Executive

Post Reply

Return to “Se6/6a/6b/GTC”